View Full Version : Bow drill fire lighting
I'm having a lot of trouble finding the right materials for this fire lighting method and was wondering if anyone coul help me
hazel drill, willow board and buffed up dry grass works very well, also willow is good for the bow aslong as its dry and not bendy,green wood bearing block , ive also used ivy which as someone already said after your first fire from it sometimes need some grit to get it going and can be a drill eater but the notch lasts for ages unlike willow , elder works ,pine has , cant comment on any more as i havnt used them but know what they are , help? or did you mean that you cant actualy find the stuff you need?
TheViking
18-10-2004, 17:45
I used hazel for drill and bow. I string made of nylon won't break. I don't know if it was willow I used for the hearth board, but it is the best guess I can give.
The things I had trouble with was getting an ember. If you're in doubt: the ember should be a little pile of black dust which must smoke. When it does that, blow very carefully until you see a glowing ember. When it begins to smoke, don't stop in your eager to see if there is an ember! What I did was to take it easy when I saw smoke. At least 20-30 long strokes with the bow and then you're there.
Also make sure that your drill is straight! My first one wasn't and that's one of the reasons it didn't go very well. But it has gone very well from now on. So far I've done it 5 times. :biggthump
If you make a big pile of dust, you won't have to hurry geting the ember into the tinder. It burns for minutes. (mine did).
Cheers :uu:
I'm having a lot of trouble finding the right materials for this fire lighting method and was wondering if anyone coul help me
Jack, there are lots of combinations, but if you have a large piece of Ivy that has seasoned that will make a good hearth and bearing block. A thinner peice can be used for bow and drill.
Hazel drill and limewood hearth are also good combinations. Hazel hearth and Ivy drill, Ash is a good one for drills as well.
Moss is very good for a nest, but you will have to ensure that it is very dry first as by its nature it retains water. One of the guys has also mentioned dry grass, cattail down is quite handy too. :-)
5.10leader
19-10-2004, 09:14
I use sycamore mainly for drill and hearth largely, I suspect, through laziness as I have a ready supply of that wood. I have found that alder works well but have had limited success with ivy to date. A piece of oak makes a good bearing block.
I feel that it is important that the ember pan is dry as this seems to generate the ember better. Similarly dry ground seems to help as well.
As previously mentioned, catstail down is great for producing the initial flame but I have also found that well rubbed honeysuckle or clematis bark works well also. The most important factor, imo, is that the material is bone dry.
I know its not te most orthodox combinations, but using hazel or elder for the spindle, and pine for the hearth (yep, just a bit of old palette works well!) is a combination that I regularly use, not least as its readily available. The only thing to look out for is that the pine mustn't be resinous,m or this just forms a gummy lump instead of an ember.
For a handhold, I either use a limpet shell (careful, it'll get hot!) or usually half a small tree branch, split lengthways, cutting a notch for the spindle in the flat side, and using the curved (bark-covered) side for the handhold. For a bow, any bit of curved, dry wood is fine (don't use green wood unless its very stiff, the tension will constantly change as it bends and you'll not get a good rhythm going!
For the string for the bow, I also usually use nylon thread - you want it to be at least 4-5mm thick, or else it will just fray and snap - make sure you don't use a 'plasticky' thread, as this will slip, or a very fibrous one, as this will fray.
Other useful tips:
Make sure the string on the bow is really tight - you want to have to use a bit of effort to get the spindle twisted in, so it grips well enough to prevent slippage (almost all string will stretch/give a bit as you start bowing).
Use the fingers on the hand gripping the bow to tighten the string a bit by pulling the string towards the bow wood, if the tension loosens.
Cut the notch in the board /after/ you've drilled in a nice hole - that way you're getting the ember to fall out at the right point.
Begin at a slowish speed with a lot of pressure - this will generate a lot of dust, and some heat. When you see the hole start to smoke, and the notch is fairly full of black dust you know that there is enough dust to begin to hold a heat - ease off the pressure a little bit, and speed up the strokes - do at least 60 strokes in this speed (in/out = 1 stroke) and you should have a lot of smoke and hopefully a nice ember.
Downward pressure is easiest to obtain if you do the following (if you're left-handed, reverse it):
Put your left foot on the hearth board, to the left of your hole, kneel on your right knee and turn your right foot outwards to balance youself (you should now look a bit like you're kneeling to be knighted!). Put the spindle in the bow, and put this in the hole/handhold. Holding the spindle in your left hand, hold your left elbow tight against your body and run your arm along your left thigh. Your left wrist should 'lock' in by turning your hand a bit to the right, and wedging it in the notch on your shin just below your left kneecap. You should now be able to adjust pressure on the spindle by leaning your whole body weight forwards and backwards, and your arm is fixed to your body, so the force is even and consistent.
At some point I'll try and get a page put up with clear, detailed pics, and maybe some video of the process, as it helps so much more to watch someone actually doing it - body position is key!
For an in depth guide to bowdrilling have a look at these, some good pictures are included,
http://trackertrail.com/survival/fire/bowdrill/pmoc/basicbowdrill.html
http://trackertrail.com/survival/fire/bowdrill/pmoc/advancedbowdrill.html
Happy bowing.
Bushmaster
19-10-2004, 12:14
As I have said before I find using sycamore for all parts,drill bow hearth etc to be fine and have no real problems.It is in abundance across the uk so you should have no probs at all.
Geoff:-)
TheViking
19-10-2004, 14:56
I have carved in my drill, so the string gets a better grip. :wink: It grips better than a round drill.
I would have said ivy hearth and hazel drill was my favourite but my latest set made with poplar knocks the sock off any set I’ve made before. I can knock one out in under 30 strokes from start to finish :o):
As mentioned before limpet shells are great they do get quite hot but I get around this by stacking two on top of each other. It's the only thing i use now.
The more you can reduce the friction where the drill meets the bearing block the easier it will be to get an ember. I didn’t take much notice of that when I first started ,I’d get a double smoker .it would make an ember but hell you worked for it.
Another tip is make more than one set. Try them all and you'll eventually get a cracker which works a treat.
As mentioned before limpet shells are great they do get quite hot but I get around this by stacking two on top of each other. It's the only thing i use now.
I agree and if you live by the coast the are always plenty to pick up :biggthump
Ed
I am doing a course on saturday on this very subject so i will get back to you and let you know what i was taught from a very experienced woodsman.
Jack, what are the problems your experiencing?
PM ME IF ITS EASIER AND I WILL TRY TO HELP.
Paganwolf
20-10-2004, 12:01
I would have said ivy hearth and hazel drill was my favourite but my latest set made with poplar knocks the sock off any set I’ve made before. I can knock one out in under 30 strokes from start to finish :o):
As mentioned before limpet shells are great they do get quite hot but I get around this by stacking two on top of each other. It's the only thing i use now.
The more you can reduce the friction where the drill meets the bearing block the easier it will be to get an ember. I didn’t take much notice of that when I first started ,I’d get a double smoker .it would make an ember but hell you worked for it.
Another tip is make more than one set. Try them all and you'll eventually get a cracker which works a treat.
Good Tips Den, the one i made the other day was a Hazel spindle and a crack willow hearth, similar results to your poplar one ill have to try that bud :biggthump
Hi guys,
Just curious about sets using hazel - do you gather the relevant pieces green and then season them or just go for dead standing?
The reason I ask is that I haven't come across much dead standing hazel, certainly relative to the ease with which i've found woods such as elder, willow, poplar etc.
I tend to always try and use new shoots form coppiced hazel - these tend to be dead straight poles, that make very nice spindles with minimal effort.
find a coppiced hazel, with nice straight poles - and cut (saw) one from the crown. Then take this and leave it somewhere warm, but not too hot, to gradually season up. I find my airing cupboard works quite well, but I have previously found cut/broken poles in coppices that have seasoned themselves nicely outdoors.
You can then cut off spindles to the correct length, and keep a ready supply for when you need more...
Hazel Coppices (www.bobsticks.co.uk/ hazel.htm)
damh_bard
22-10-2004, 12:16
Hi!
This is my first post here. Really glad I've found you all!
I find that dropping a few finely shredded birch bark pieces into the tinder bunder works a treat - the oils in the birch just fly into flame.
Peace
Damh
Welcome to BCUK damh_bard :wave:
What does a poplar tree look like? It's not in my book :?:
what book do you have? it should be in there!
Well I don't think I have it because i've looked through all of it and couldn't see it. I'm at school and I shouldn't really be on but I'll make sure when i get home :wink:
Paganwolf
22-10-2004, 13:02
the trees look like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/jlamour1/poplar1.gif
and the leaves look like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/jlamour1/poplar2.gif
hope thats ok :wink:
I tend to always try and use new shoots form coppiced hazel - these tend to be dead straight poles, that make very nice spindles with minimal effort.
find a coppiced hazel, with nice straight poles - and cut (saw) one from the crown. Then take this and leave it somewhere warm, but not too hot, to gradually season up. I find my airing cupboard works quite well, but I have previously found cut/broken poles in coppices that have seasoned themselves nicely outdoors.
You can then cut off spindles to the correct length, and keep a ready supply for when you need more...
Hazel Coppices (www.bobsticks.co.uk/ hazel.htm)
Thanks for that, Match. I'll be getting hold of some tomorrow. :biggthump
What does a poplar tree look like? It's not in my book :?:
I'm surprised they are not in your book. They are a pretty poplar tree. :hurra:
My favourite combination is ivy hearth, willow spindle and antler bearing block. The antler works really well but you do get a slight burnt hair smell until the hearth starts smoking :yuck:
the trees look like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/jlamour1/poplar1.gif
and the leaves look like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/jlamour1/poplar2.gif
hope thats ok :wink:
That looks like Manchester Poplar "Poplous Nigra Betulifolia" :wink:
For bow drill firelighting I find most of the "Middle Woods" work ok.
Softwoods like pine, spruce etc work OK but wear through very quickly
Hardwoods like OAK can also work but with HUGE amounts of effort.
Keep to woods like:
Willow
Hazel
Ash
Ivy
Sycamore
Birch
Poplar
Elm
Lime
Alder
There are loads to try. Some good indicators of a good tree are a) smooth bark and b) broad leaves. Having said that, willow has roughish bark and slim leaves :?: The best thing to do is keep an eye out when walking. Grab some deadfall branches and try them. If they work remember the tree (It's shape, bark, colour texture foliagae etc) and don't forget to make a mental note of the whole shape of the tree as they can look very different loaded with fruits and foliage in the summer, than they do in winter devoid of leaves and berries. :biggthump
HI,
I'm not sure if anyone's mentioned it, but I've found Red Cedar hearth and a hazel spindle works. If you're learning it produces an ember really easily. :-P
Additionally, the inner bark from the cedar is a fantastic tinder as well as making relatively good cordage (probably not good enough for a bow string though). :-)
Has anyone done any experiments to see which is best thick or thin spindles of the same woods?
I've made some sets up which im just about to try.
Has anyone done any experiments to see which is best thick or thin spindles of the same woods?
I've made some sets up which im just about to try.
I've found that spindles about thumb thickness work well.
Thats what i have said to now but a set i made with a really small spindle worked really well .
On the down side the coal was smaller but not a problem. I'm going to look into this a bit more. try a few different wood too.
A lot of pallets are made of poplar not pine as might be thought.
gurthang
25-11-2004, 16:08
:idea: I'd never heard that limpet shell idea before what an excellent idea. :idea:
I usually use sycamore for both the Hearth and spindle I dont know if this is a good combination but it works most of the time for me
I'll have to try some of the other combos mentioned here as although the sycamore works most of the time it sometimes takes a while
Has anybody ever tried Yew?
I found a lovely piece that fits my palm perfectly for a hand-hold. My only concern is that I know that yew leaves and berries are poisonous, but I'm not sure if the smoke caused by friction is noxious. Any ideas?
Cheers,
Martin
I have used Yew for the bearing block in the past. I wouldn’t know though if the smoke was poisonous. Are you on about getting smoke from the end where the bearing block meets the drill or using yew as a drill?
If you are getting smoke from where the block meets the drill try and reduce the friction with more of a point on the drill. A bit of lube like fat, holy leaves etc always helps.
If you are getting smoke from where the block meets the drill try and reduce the friction with more of a point on the drill. A bit of lube like fat, holy leaves etc always helps. A lot of people cringe when I mention this, but good sources of lubricant are ear wax, and the oils from the side of your nose - if you've got oily skin lik me then it is often enough to just rub the non-hearth end of the spindle against the side of your nose a few times. Now you might not want to do this for your displays to other people, but if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere fashioning a drill set out of what comes to hand, then use these natural lubricants!
(Bang goes my chances of a date with anyone reading this post! :rolmao:)
Are you on about getting smoke from the end where the bearing block meets the drill or using yew as a drill?
Sorry, there is a bit of confusion here. I'll split the piece of yew and I'll use one piece as the handheld and the other piece as the Hearth after levelling it out. So the smoke will be at the hearth end (Hopefully) !!
As to the lubrication, Yup, I too use "Body oil", especially if I've been in the bush for a few days :yikes: :yuck: :yuck:
Cheers,
Martin
ideally you want the hand held block to be a very hard wood much harder then the hearth then the there is a much more effective energy transfer between the spindle and the hearth you dont want to be heating the block, thats just wasting energy
i tried in my garage, gave up because i could see it was'nt going to work. I think it's the wood that's the problem. But theres just no where near me where i can get it. or it's that i just don't know what to look for. I knopw which woods to use but i never seam to see them!!!
the hearth wants to be soft enough that you can just about push your thumb nail in to it.. but not to soft other wise your drill will just burn through too quickly... the spindle wants to be straight and between the diameter of a 1p and a 50p bow wants to be as long as your arm! now that leaves 101 other things to go wrong.. good luck :wink:
A lot of people cringe when I mention this, but good sources of lubricant are ear wax, and the oils from the side of your nose - if you've got oily skin lik me then it is often enough to just rub the non-hearth end of the spindle against the side of your nose a few times. Now you might not want to do this for your displays to other people, but if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere fashioning a drill set out of what comes to hand, then use these natural lubricants!
(Bang goes my chances of a date with anyone reading this post! :rolmao:)
Nowt wrong with that.... :-P I've used candlewax, bacon fat and allsorts to good effect :biggthump