View Full Version : Picture of Scandi grind PackPal
Nightfall
10-10-2004, 21:45
Ok, lets give this a try here. Hopefully all out there can see the picture of my packpal.
Nightfall
http://www.yoxio.com/img/100651.jpg
Nightfall
10-10-2004, 21:51
Yeah it worked. I have to say thanks to my wife Tamie for that.
tenbears10
10-10-2004, 22:38
That looks great Nightfall. Well done on the pics. It doesn't help the wait for mine though. :wink:
Bill
tenbears10
10-10-2004, 22:41
I just noticed you are lucky that looks like the original design of packpal scandi not the modified version Allan sent pictures of last week which the rest of us are getting.
I hope ours are as good. I'm sure they will be.
Bill
Does the spine cast sparks from a ferro rod?
Allan sent me the original one in his picture:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v185/fraserM/PACKPALSCANDISmall.jpg
Great little knife, highly recommended.
Nightfall
11-10-2004, 00:48
Does the spine cast sparks from a ferro rod?
Yes, the spine does cast good sparks.
tenbears10
11-10-2004, 10:03
There are some more pictures of Nightfalls scandi in the tools section of the gallery.
Bill
bushblade
11-10-2004, 14:33
That doesn't look like a scandi grind to me, it has a secondary bevel. Nice though.
That doesn't look like a scandi grind to me, it has a secondary bevel. Nice though.
The secondary bevel that you mentioned was talked about on BB, Allan got on there and cleared up any misconceptions about it. What you can see is where Allan has removed some of the coating off the blade, this shows up like a secondary bevel in pictures due to the contrast of colours from the stell to the coating :wink:
So if it has a zero edge, how do you sharpen it without scrubbing off the coating (or putting a secondary bevel onto it)?
Sorry for all the questions, but this coating Alan uses has me puzzled. I have he4ard that in order to get the spine to spark a ferro rod well, the coating needs to be removed.
Tantalus
11-10-2004, 17:47
Yes, the spine does cast good sparks.
:?:
Tant
:?:
Tant
Yeah, I read that tant, thanks, I was wondering if that was with the coating removed.
The coating is some oxide or other with a laquer over the top. If you put a laquer coating on something with a square corner, it'll take the bite out of the edge. So unless it's been removed, or worn through, I would think it struggles as a sparker.
If you read around, there are a number of people who had this issue with the bushcrafter, which has the same coating.
Anyway, my main question is how do you sharpen it, without scrubbing off the coating?
Good question, but as you'll probably already know, as far as I can see you can't sharpen it without putting either a secondary bevel or losing some of the coating. In the end if you look after it properly it should make little difference whether it has a coating or not.
Agreed. I know Allan does em with a brushed finish, which I think would be my choice. As far as I can see, the oxide/laquer coating might just be more hassle than it's worth.
tenbears10
11-10-2004, 18:40
I'm expecting to sharpen the coating off the bevel and it will just be coated on the section that doesn't contact the stone (or whatever you use to sharpen). Allan clearly stated thet it doesn't have a secondary bevel when we asked before. I think he will look in on the thread soon and maybe help with an answer.
Bill
Agreed. I know Allan does em with a brushed finish, which I think would be my choice. As far as I can see, the oxide/laquer coating might just be more hassle than it's worth.
In the end I think that it may be worth talking to someone who has had one of Allans knives (with this coating on) for some time, find out what they have to say and think about it.
The guys (Sargey, Schwert or Hoodoo) must have at least one of Allans knives with this coating between them (if not the whole product range each) :wink: .
Me gets two pretty soon (well, ...in a few weeks time that is) :o):
One standard and one original style scandi - I'll see how the sparks fly
MagiKelly
11-10-2004, 21:02
When you sharpen it the coating comes off the flat grind part of the blade but stays on the rest. It did not slow up the sharpening of my Bushcrafter and turned out not to have too much effect on my casting sparks. If you are stropping rather than using a stone it will probably take longer for the coating to come off.
As to the purpose of the coating, well at least it will stop the knifes arriving with a rusty blade, unlike some I could mention, eh Martyn?
Cheers John, nice to have someone with experience of the coating in question post about it. :biggthump
If you are stropping rather than using a stone it will probably take longer for the coating to come off.
A job for the starkie in all its wonderful ways?
MagiKelly
12-10-2004, 16:42
I should have mentioned that the coating wears pretty thin on the blade grind just throught normal use so by the time you come to sharpen it there is little left.
As to the purpose of the coating, well at least it will stop the knifes arriving with a rusty blade, unlike some I could mention, eh Martyn?
Quite so. :o):
WHATS BEADBLAST????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????? ??
I just asked Allan for that and im panicking........Martyn, you know what i like, will i like it?????????????????????
AND.......Is it like a normal knife, ie woodlore, northstar etc
Nightfall
12-10-2004, 23:35
Jake, bead blasting is just a finishing on the blade to knock down the glare off a shiney blade.The knife looks nothing like a tactical blade if thats your worry.
Allan Blade
13-10-2004, 01:49
Hey all,
My Scandi grinds dont have a secondary Edge bevel like say my flat Ground blades have.
WHat i do with a scandi grind is , I grind it to Zero on my finish grind to were a slight burr developes, then when i bead blast the blade it Blasts the wire edge away. The shiney edge you see happens because i lightly hit the edge on a ceramic to just bring it back to sharp a bit. YOu can still sharpen the whole bevel if you choose.
The COating i put on the Bead Blast blades is a clear Hardcoat laquer is all it is. I can leave it off the blade no problem , i really just have it there to inhibit corrosion, but it usally wears off at a rate of use and is replaced by a Patina as it is used.
I choose to offer most the blades this way for one becasue i consider most of the blades i make as USER grade and i refinish the FIeld Grade finish for no charge.
Also at the Price level that i sell my blades at its not possible to Make them affordable to everyone and supply them with a Hand rubbed satin finish at the Prices i ask.
Also i like to make knives that will be Used and offer them at a price that doesnt kill peoples Bank accounts.
I can make anystyle blade anyone would like from a Standard Using grade field finished Knife up to and including full fledged Polished Katanas, but i am finding alot of people appreciate a well ground and finished Using knife abouve a fancy Shiney blade that wont really work any better but costs 3 times as much.
lol Guess im weird.
Regards, Allan Blade
Allan thanks for your input, believe it or not we appreciate the trouble that you have gone through to make affordable and efficient user friendly tools.
That doesn't make you wierd it makes you more like one of us :o):
Whew! Yep, i thought that was the one im after. Great stuff, Allan, sounds like my (your :wink:) knife is gonna be perfect!
During use, you will wear the coating off anyway so I would not worry about it. I'd just sharpen it like any other scandi.
I just ordered one of these and I think it will be a dandy woodcarver. He uses a mortised tang and the handle is supposed to be broader than the original packpal. I have a couple of the original packpals and I think they are wonderful for small game or slicing cheese and beefstick, etc, but this new packpal should be great for whittling. Not to mention Allan gives you a lot of knife for the money. He's one of the best grinders I've ever seen and fit and finish are almost always perfect. Where else can you get a mortised tang knife done to perfection for the kind of money he charges? If I had to pick one style of handle as my favorite, the mortised tang would be it and Alan does a great one for a really low price.
Just a note: I wrote this and then discovered Allan had responded and wrote essentially the same thing. Sorry for the duplication but I think Allan is right on the mark.
MagiKelly
22-10-2004, 14:24
It's here ! ! ! ! ! !
My Scandi PackPal arrived yesterday. Perfect just perfect. I can see this getting more use that my Bushcrafter. For short trips out in the woods etc this would be fine. On slightly longer trips a folding saw would be added and for a day or two in the canoe a GB SFA would cover the rest of my needs. Of course I will still be giving the Bushcrafter a good work out every so often but the new PackPal is terrific. The workmanship is first class and the Maple handle and Mosaic pins give it a class appearance. In fact I was so pleased with the handle and pins that I changes my Rint spec to the same.
I know you are all shouting "show us some pictures" but it will be a while before I get the chance. Once I do I will post them, I promise. It is the one that Allan posted a picture of when he changed the design but I will still post more pictures when I get a chance.
:o): great stuff! Will be looking forward to a comprehe4nsive review :wink:
Nightfall
22-10-2004, 15:04
Good deal! Looking forwaed to hearing your opinions on it.
MagiKelly
31-10-2004, 16:40
Okay I finally got a chance to get out and try out the PackPal. Took the Bushcrafter too so it could play with its little brother.
http://www.magikelly.co.uk/packpal01.jpg
This gives a bit of a size comparison.
http://www.magikelly.co.uk/packpal02.jpg
The Pack Pal is actually good for battoning. Okay you have a smaller target but it goes on very easily.
http://www.magikelly.co.uk/packpal03.jpg
http://www.magikelly.co.uk/packpal04.jpg
http://www.magikelly.co.uk/packpal05.jpg
Sorry about the quality of the pictures but it was just my compact digital camera I had with me. I also carved a small spoon which it did with ease but the picture was so bad you could hardly make it out.
The knife is a dream to use. The thinner blade is plenty strong and just eats through wood. Allan forgot to add the firesteel holder but is sending it along with my Runt. The spine of the knife sparks well enough but not as good as the scraper you get with the firesteel.
Nightfall
31-10-2004, 21:48
The pictures look great :biggthump :biggthump :biggthump
Nice one John, again you guys do nothing for my patience! :o):
Nice one but i really dont like the wooden handle/ kydex sheath combination.
Sorry.
But the knife itself is very usefull and thats what counts.
Dajak.
tenbears10
01-11-2004, 17:33
I paid for mine today and it's ready to ship this week so I will put up some pics when it arrives.
Bill
MagiKelly
01-11-2004, 20:45
Nice one but i really dont like the wooden handle/ kydex sheath combination.
I have to concede that much as I have come round to the Kydex sheath it does not really go with the wooden handle unlike the Handle on my Bushcrafter which seems to compliment it.
Very nice shots and that is a fine looking knife. Allan emailed me that it will not be long for mine.
I am pretty sure I will have a leather sheath made for it, but will give it a fair try first.
Many thanks John, it sounds like a nice little user, I am in the same boat as Schwert having recieved an e-mail saying pretty much the same thing. Also recieved an e-mail from Gene letting me know my order was complete :wink: