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hello
thought i would try to make a knife from scratch as i dont have a spare £300 for one im using the same type of steel that ray mears uses the only differance is my blade is going to be 2 cm longer
http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o382/peakpdr/?special_track=nav_album_album
just put a pattern on the blade
http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o382/peakpdr/?action=view¤t=S1051814.jpg
That looks lovely, bet your looking forward to using it.
superb job, very well done, how did you do the bevels and the heat treatment?
Matt Weir
20-08-2008, 22:49
Good work Paul.
Be aware that as it is with that secondary bevel is not suitable for woodwork but as a prep knife it will excel.
A flat or Scandinavian (scandi) grind is best wood carving.
Nice one Paul, You'll get a lot more satisfaction using that than you would a shop bought one . Great work mate !!
superb job, very well done, how did you do the bevels and the heat treatment?
i made a fire let it die to the ashes put the knife in then fed air into it with hair dryer then dipped it in oil when it reached 800 dgrs then put it in oven for 2x 1hr
i havnt finished doing the blade yet but i used a belt sander to get it started then i will be using a waterstone and a very fine file
just made a furnace for future knife projects out of an old exhaust repair patch loads of tins some heat resistant tape and a bit of blood
http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o382/peakpdr/?action=view¤t=S1051804.jpg
Good work Paul.
Be aware that as it is with that secondary bevel is not suitable for woodwork but as a prep knife it will excel.
A flat or Scandinavian (scandi) grind is best wood carving.
I hear what you're saying but i sometimes find a secondary bevel quite useful for very fine detail cuts that don't bite too deep such as can be found on a sebenza or a swiss army knife
my god .. i had to heat treat the knife again ( didnt get it hot enough first time ) i have got bloody blister spots alover me but atleast the knife is done right this time
Good work Paul.
Be aware that as it is with that secondary bevel is not suitable for woodwork but as a prep knife it will excel.
A flat or Scandinavian (scandi) grind is best wood carving.
Wood chisels are ground at 25 degrees then they are honed at 30 degrees. Some knives may not be suitable but I know that I have some with a secondary bevel and have no problem cutting wood.
andywinkk
22-08-2008, 22:45
your right you can get good kit without spending money, and making your own is more atisfying, i have nearlly finneshed a knife made out of an old shefield steel file and cant wait to use it, i have also made my own tarps and hammoks also and they have never failed me yet, touch wood lol
Good work Paul.
Be aware that as it is with that secondary bevel is not suitable for woodwork but as a prep knife it will excel.
A flat or Scandinavian (scandi) grind is best wood carving.
I think every single knife owner in Finland would disagree with you there, also check out Mora Clippers when they're new, they come with a secondary bevel!!
i am using rowan wood for the handle of the bushcraft knife with black fibre liners , also i have blue,d the blade a nice gun metal colour it looks ace .. am realy looking forward to using it
Hi Paul,
Jan (the man who hardened my blade) has tought me that if you want to check if the knife is hot enough for hardening, just test it with an magnet. It is hot enough if the magnet doesn't stich anymore.
Just thought you'd like to know. I think I'll be trying hardening myself using the trusted weber next time. Should be easy to fix an air blower to the bottom of it.
Grtz,
Niels
thanks for the info
i made myself a little furnace out of a exhaust repair kit and some cans the other day it worked a treat i used the wifes hair dryer ( not best pleased ) to get it up to heat
the only thing is my arms are covered in tiny blisters from the hot ashes but it was worth it
.. next time i will be wearing a jumper and getting some proper gloves