View Full Version : Best Folding/lockable knives ?
Can anyone recommend the best type of pocket-sized lockable folding knife suitable for bushcraft when your fixed-blade isn't to hand? I'm looking for the safest, sturdiest locking mechanism, on a quality folding blade. (One that won't fold onto your hand or be too weak at the hinge).
Thanks
TheViking
22-09-2004, 17:10
I can definately recommend a SAK. I have an Outrider and it's superb. Just the right size, not too big, but still a lot of features. :wink: And you won't just get a knife, but also saw, scissors etc, etc. :biggthump
Something like this?
http://www.equipped.com/rsk_mk1.htm
tenbears10
22-09-2004, 17:11
I think the problem is that if you use it for the same stuff as a fixed blade then no locking mechanism is good enough. However folding knives are great for other tasks and I think most of us will have at least one swiss army knife. I am a fan of Leathermans as well but only if you buy them from the States or ebay as £100 is way too much.
Bill
is a SAK lockable??
i am also a big fan of the leatherman, you kind find good deals on the net and get them sent from the US for very little!!
spydrackos are popular, with the knife guys at least.. i have no experience though!
TheViking
22-09-2004, 17:22
is a SAK lockable??
Yes, some of 'em is. The ones which is 11 cm. long. :wink:
Personaly I wouldn't do without my Opinel - it's about the simplest and toughest locking mechanism I've used and it's tight enough that's there's no free play int he bade once it's locked. On the downside get it damp and won't open it until the wood dries out again.
Realgar
Fatbloke
22-09-2004, 17:57
I've been using a Normark Super Swede for years for loads of jobs. Recommended by an instructor on a course many years ago. You can still get them for around £30 I think.
Leatherman make a good knife, there blades are strong and due to there design wont fold into the hand, you also get a top-class multi-tool with it.
JonathanD
22-09-2004, 18:16
Chris Reeve Sebenza. Now that's a knife :biggthump
Richard,
Do you have a price range? That might help guide the suggestions a bit more! :wink:
C_Claycomb
22-09-2004, 18:45
Having had a look at the Doug Ritter knife I have to say it is better in nearly every way for bushcraft than the Sebenza is. I have a Sebenza and though it is a nice knife it is not one I would now recommend for bushcraft activities. It does not carve well enough, it is not comfortable enough in the hand when cutting feather sticks, it is cold in the hand, and the lock is not easily releasable.
I still like it as a knife, and it is build like a tank. It just isn't a great choice for bushcraft.
Something like this?
http://www.equipped.com/rsk_mk1.htm (http://www.equipped.com/rsk_mk1.htm)When's the BCUK folder due Tone? :wink:
And is it true that it'll be called the Albion? :roll:
SAK? :?: 'orrible.
Like the look of the Doug Ritter though :biggthump
bushwacker bob
22-09-2004, 19:44
SAK? :?: 'orrible.
Yep.
(I still use it daily tho')
I know, I know. I am a heathen and must be burned at the stake.
The scene at the support group:
<stands up> My name is Lurch and I hate SAKs
<sits down, stares at floor>
quarterstaff
22-09-2004, 20:16
I would think that a folding knife would mainly be used for food prep and smaller cutting task not so much carving and the like,so any of the knives mentioned would be fine.
If you are think of a folding knife to act as a back up if you fixed blade is lost or at the bottom of you sack then maybe you should look at the Almar sere 2000(rememdering no folder is as strong as a fixed).Also if you want it to spark a fire steel a rounded spine is a nono(sebenza).
Personally i would carry a fixed,locking folder and a leatherman(must have file and saw),but thats just me :-) .
cheers
Lurch, I wouldnt say i disagree! Although "hate" is too much of a strong word, i certainly think they are over-hyped.
I think I mentioned before that I am one of those guys with way too many knives. I've got about forty folders to choose from. If you are really going to whittle and pry, I think you would want a lockback folder, like for instance my Spyderco Police model or even my Buck 110 has. The latter can be had quite cheaply and would make a decent knife for bushcraft (easy to sharpen too). The Sere2000 was mentioned here as well as the Sebenza. I have both and love them to bits but if you are worried about the knife folding whilst using it no liner lock or frame lock knife will be absolutely safe. If you don't like the lockback folders check out Benchmade's axis folders. I have a BM 805 which is rock solid.
Alternatively go for a small fixed blade, e.g. AG Russell's woodwalker or BRK&T Micro. They are the same size as the bigger folders and you could safely beat the hell out of them....
Just my 2 cents....
Lennart
Personaly I wouldn't do without my Opinel - it's about the simplest and toughest locking mechanism I've used and it's tight enough that's there's no free play int he bade once it's locked. On the downside get it damp and won't open it until the wood dries out again.
Realgar
Yep,
I'd go with that, it's my EDC (yes I know, I've got several reasonable excuses up my sleeve, all tried on a friendly magistrate who works for me!). I love em to bits, but it ain't that upsetting when I loose one as they only cost about a fiver, bargain of the millenium! And a few minutes on a sharpmaker gives them a wicked edge! Does everything a knife should from bits of carving through buttering toast to butchering bunnies.
Got an assortment of SAKs that don't get used much + a couple of leathemans which do get used but are kept safe either at home or in my pack. The opi lives in my pocket 24x7 unless I'm on a plane.
Cheers
David
When's the BCUK folder due Tone? :wink:
And is it true that it'll be called the Albion? :roll:
:rolmao: What a wonderful idea!!
The bcuk Albion :rolmao:
Tantalus
22-09-2004, 22:44
Opinel /snip
On the downside get it damp and won't open it until the wood dries out again.
try holding the knife at the hinge end with the handle pointing away from you , then tap the end of the handle onto a hard surface to bring the blade out
Tant
Spyderco Paramilitary has proved to be pretty competent as far as I'm concerned.
Lurch, I wouldnt say i disagree! Although "hate" is too much of a strong word, i certainly think they are over-hyped.
Yep you're right. I don't totally hate them, I just don't see the mass appeal for people who actually use knives. There are some really nice looking SAK's and some of them I would consider buying, but on a collector basis not for actually doing stuff.
Opinels are another one I've never got the appeal of, secure locking I'm sure but yucky to use.
... I'll get me coat!
I had a play with the Doug Ritter's RSK Mk1™ Folding Knife
by Benchmade™
www.equipped.com/rsk_mk1.htm
I think its the best outdoors folder i have ever seen, definate thumbs up from me :biggthump
I like Benchmade stuff but I've never really bonded with the axis lock ... the idea of the way the pin locks the blade is great and seems ultra strong but I see the spring component to be the weak link.
Dunno ... each to his own I guess ...
I like Benchmade stuff but I've never really bonded with the axis lock ... the idea of the way the pin locks the blade is great and seems ultra strong but I see the spring component to be the weak link.
Dunno ... each to his own I guess ...
Battered the hell out of mine Adi, my mini griptillian is my "do all" knife and I havent got a peep out of the mechanism.
For those who might be considering the doug ritter knife....
http://www.aeromedix.com/aeromedix/sku/bmrskmini/mini_black.jpg
...think on this:
The cheapest version is $99.95 plus shipping and import duty/VAT - figure on a conservative $140 inc (if you're lucky) - that's a conservative £77.61 at todays exchange rates, but will likely cost you closer to £90.
Or...
You can get a benchmade mini griptillian...
http://www.safetywarehouseusa.com/ProductImages/sarsam_1778_1288810.gif
From Joe Echols (ODS) for £46inc. You get a choice of blade shapes and a gazillion different handle colours.
Of course, if you want a real survival knife, you can pay the extra £40 and get one from equipped with the doug ritter logo. :roll:
I know this sounds like a bit of an ad for ODS, it isn't. I'm just pointing out that they are essentially the same knife for vastly different prices.
Before somone points out that the Ritter blade is S30v, yeah I know, but you have to be a serious knife junkie to pay x2 simply for S30v - it aint magic metal ya know?
Just my 2p. ;)
I'd also recommend the Opinels.
Mine has served me exceptionally well over the past 25 years and survived several military exercises and courses, journeys to the Sahara, a month of camping and shooting in the States, you name it.
When the day comes that I lose it or it gets bust, it'll be like losing a friend.
Yes, the blade can stick, but as pointed out, a quick tap normally does the trick.
I like this one but it is cold in your hand if you don't keep it in a pocket or pouch on a belt
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/arlongden666/cutlery%20photos/DSCN0666.jpg
I find thumb studs get in the way of things.
I don't like most SAKs either
R-Bowskill
23-09-2004, 13:47
I use an Opinel no 8, Suppose it's cos that's what I grew up with. I have seen the blade on one snap when it was used to extract a stuck cartridge but apart from that they cope with what I throw at them. Mine gets used for dozens of jobs and even gets pressed into service for some jobs in my kitchen at home.
If not kept clean the blade does tend to stick, I oil the wood whenever I sharpen it to keep moisture out and reduce this problem.
My other folding knife is a swiss army mainly so that I've always got a corkscrew, bottle opener and tin opener on me. Sometimes I think that's why people invite me to parties, so they can get tinto the drinks!!!
Sometimes I think that's why people invite me to parties, so they can get tinto the drinks!!!
Now why does that sound familiar???
MartiniDave
23-09-2004, 15:17
I've bought several lock knives over the years, but I still keep coming back to the opinels, either no 7 or 8. Cheap, robust and good cutters. Excellent.
I also use SAK's as they're very "sheeple friendly"
Dave
currently a Gerber Harsey AR2 it's such a simple knife to keep clean and a very sturdy lock with a secondary lock for extra security
will be upgrading sometime soon to a Lone Wolf Harsey T2 .. it seems to have a very good blade shape where as the AR2 has a clip point... the T2 doesn't making it more of a utility knife
Something about William Harsey knife designs ... he also designed the Sebenza ... arguably the best locking folder there is
I've tried all sorts over the years but I now tend to alternate between an Opinel No 8 and a steel/wooden handled Fox knife (440 series steel) both of which take a superb edge which I think is important. I'm never without a Leatherman nowadays for everything BUT the knife blade which I've never managed to sharpen to the standard I prefer.
I've also got a fairly old wooden handled EKA knife (about the size of an Opinel NO 8) for which I would dearly like to to have a decent carbon steel blade made. Anybody have any ideas who might give me a price for doing this?
I've used a Puma Cadet for the last 20 years and have given away a SAK Climber and left my Leatherman PST in my bike repair kit.
I prefer fixed blades for use in the outdoors, less to go wrong,( keep it simple)
Cheers
Andgrin :biggthump
Opinels are my favourite folders by far! Great steel, very strudy and you don't mind damageing them as they cost under £10. Best you can get IMO. You can do anything with an opinel that you can with any other and in great comfort (or have i opened a can of worms)
Before somone points out that the Ritter blade is S30v, yeah I know, but you have to be a serious knife junkie to pay x2 simply for S30v - it aint magic metal ya know?
I've owned a RitterGrip for a few months now. I think it's worth just adding that not only is the blade steel different from the standard Grips, so is the geometry.
The much higher grind of the Ritter version is finished with a bevel of 15 degrees as opposed to the much steeper (so I have read) twentysomething bevel on the standard Grip. My BM705 has similar steep lines and is not a patch on the Ritter for carving/slicing.
The standard grip is a great knife, no argument there! I personally feel though that the improved steel along with the 'improved' blade geometry is worth the extra dosh for bushcrafty applications, especially if your main fixed blade is a thickish scandi grind not easily persuaded into delicate slicing tasks.
(not that the 'extra' costs of shipping over a knife from the US aren't irritating in the extreme, though :roll: )
I'd also recommend the Opinels.
Mine has served me exceptionally well over the past 25 years
When the day comes that I lose it or it gets bust, it'll be like losing a friend.
Yes, the blade can stick, but as pointed out, a quick tap normally does the trick.
I think I'm on my third in that time frame! one lasted about 12 yrs before I lost my friend, next about 3 months and No 3 since then. The hit the handle on a hard surface to open a stiff opinel is so much second nature I didn't even think of mentioning it and guess I do it without realising!
David
Thanks for all your suggestions folks! What a response. I will look into these a bit further, particularly the RSK.
I love my Opinel from a looks, feel and sharpness point of view but I've never felt the locking mechanism was very safe as I find the metal collar on mine swivels around gradually as I'm using it. I've also snapped the blade (twice) on an Opinel so I worry it isn't up to a lot of bushcraft tasks, but maybe I'm asking too much from it?
Keep the suggestions coming.
If you do snap your opinel blade, don't throw it away, make a Bull-ant (http://forums.outdoors-magazine.com/viewtopic.php?t=566).
Paganwolf
24-09-2004, 12:42
Hey now thats a good idea! :You_Rock_
Hey now thats a good idea! :You_Rock_
I don't rock - Oupa does!!
:-)
I have been considering buying a Nomad Victoronix for just the same purpose. This is listed as a Line Lock but others on the site Swisstool (http://www.swisstool.co.uk/) under lockable knives are listed as side lock. Does anyone know if one is better than the other??
I have been considering buying a Nomad Victoronix for just the same purpose.
To break and make a bul-ant?
To break and make a bul-ant?
:tw:
I doubt it. Probably referring to the initial post...
Can anyone recommend the best type of pocket-sized lockable folding knife suitable for bushcraft when your fixed-blade isn't to hand?
sorry martyn, i'll repeat my self here :roll: :o):
yep, the RSK has superb geometry, the bevel on the couple i got, (one for me one for a mate) are even finer than the 15 degrees.
if you compare prices to other tac folders with S30V blades it comes out looking pretty good.
warning "steel-bore" bit follows... :roll:
after years of hearing about how everybody elses knives stayed razor sharp for ages and mine never did, i started getting paranoid. then i got a spyderco military from all round diamond geezer, chad234. i don't know what's in S30V, but i know it makes the best cutlery steel i've used to date. :o):
as to wether the RSK is the ideal folder for bushcrafty applications? well it depends on wether you want a simple single folding blade, or a multiblade knife with the very useful saw, awl and so on.
if you wanta single blade then yes, the RSK rocks, it's geometry sees to that. for small detail carving though, it could possibly do with being a tiny bit pointy-er.
if you want the pocket workshop ron hood style. get a big locking SAK. the saw awl and other bits and pieces are really handy, i'd definately go for the liner locks over slide locks. i have two slide lock SAKs, and both have been repeatedly defeated till they didn't work at all. the knife is still ok to use as a simple spring/slipjoint.
cheers, and.
Burnt Ash
25-09-2004, 10:16
if you want the pocket workshop ron hood style. get a big locking SAK. the saw awl and other bits and pieces are really handy, i'd definately go for the liner locks over slide locks. i have two slide lock SAKs, and both have been repeatedly defeated till they didn't work at all. the knife is still ok to use as a simple spring/slipjoint.
cheers, and.
Have you sent the failed side lock SAKs back to claim on warranty? That's the way to get Victorinox to improve the design.
Personally, I like the Victorinox Hunter with its usefully long saw, a blade long enough to fillet a fish and the second gutting blade. Certainly, it's not the heaviest duty knife around, but a useful enough little package if you treat it with a bit of care.
Burnt Ash
If it's strength of lock you are after you probably can't beat a Benchmade AXIS lock. It is about as good a lock as one can get. They are also incredibly addictive! The Benchmade 520 Presidio is an awesome knife with quite a bushcrafty blade.
www.benchmade.com
Their knives are made to the highest quality as well, although knives from Spyderco are now using a slightly better steel and attract a fiercely loyal fanbase because Sal Glesser, the founder of Spyderco takes the time to come onto forums like www.britishblades.com and talk with his customers. The knives are pretty damn good as well, and not as 'tactical' looking as Benchmades.
www.spyderco.com
Framelocks (where one part of the handle moves to lock the blade) are also incredibly secure. You'll find them on the very expensive (£250) Chris Reeve Sebenza and the more affordable Kershaw Leek.
www.kershawknives.com
Joe at www.outdoorsuppliesuk.com is probably the cheapest UK supplier.
:-P
Danzo
rapidboy
25-09-2004, 17:39
Opinel #8 is a great little knife and they are cheap.
Or a SAK with a locking blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/391_9120_1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/391_9127_1.jpg
Personally, I like the Victorinox Hunter with its usefully long saw, a blade long enough to fillet a fish and the second gutting blade. Certainly, it's not the heaviest duty knife around, but a useful enough little package if you treat it with a bit of care.
they're absolutely superb knives, i have two, both with the broken locks. :roll: one of which is still in service.
cheers, and.
steven andrews
25-09-2004, 19:07
Benchmade Griptilian family..
http://img73.exs.cx/img73/9122/Grips.jpg
thanks for the photo steven, i didn't even know there was a mini RSK.
how does the edge geometry/size/angle of the final bevel compare between the standard grippies and the RSK?
cheers, and.
Are these knives too big and bulky to carry in the pocket? Or is it better to carry them in a belt sheath?
I've a Buck Ranger (112) which, although it's not particularly large, is too heavy to carry in the pocket, needs to be used with its sheath and so tends to remain at home in favour of something lighter as I already carry a Leatherman on my belt - (I don't think the leatherman knife blade is up to standard). The Buck blade does, however, take a superb edge.
Are these knives too big and bulky to carry in the pocket? Or is it better to carry them in a belt sheath?
I own the top one in Stevens picture...
http://www.britishblades.com/pics/grip1.jpg
http://www.britishblades.com/pics/grip2.jpg
It's compact and very lightweight. No problems carrying it in your pocket.
I know Sargey says the Doug Ritter models are worth x2 the cost, but I remain unconvinced. I just dont see how S30v and a fractionally different blade profile can make that much difference. Maybe I'm missing something, I dunno. The regular model is made from 440C, which is an excellent steel.
steven andrews
26-09-2004, 09:33
I'm not sure how the blade profiles differ. At Bladeforums Doug Ritter said: "The specs are: 30° plain edge, 6.9° bevel"
I don't know if the S30V Ritters are that much better than the 440C Griptilians but I had to have them :naughty:
Is a Sebenza that much better than an Opinel?
Is a Sebenza that much better than an Opinel?
Not a fair analogy really. ;)
Can you honestly say the ritter griptillian is a better knife than the regular griptillian? If so why?
he he....coz it's the only one I've got :rolmao:
i'd definately go for the liner locks over slide locks. i have two slide lock SAKs, and both have been repeatedly defeated till they didn't work at all. the knife is still ok to use as a simple spring/slipjoint.
Can anyone enlighten me about 'liner locks' (eg. on a SAK) vs other lock mechanisms? :?:
Thanks