View Full Version : Drunk bafoon dry grinds my axe!
Last night my brother had some friends round. I hid my axe under my bed so it wouldn't get messed up. yeah right. After logging off BCUK I went upto my room to find some T**t had taken my axe and tried to sharpen it on a dry waterstone. :***: :banghead: :rant: :f: :aargh4: :z: :boot: :AR15firin :tw: :smiley-fa :yikes: :archer: :argue: :slap: :banghead:
I don't think it's damaged severely, I'm going to get a DC4 and do some serious sharpening. The waterstone is clogged with metal particles.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/YoungBushman/100_0759.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/YoungBushman/100_0760.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/YoungBushman/100_0761.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/YoungBushman/100_0749.jpg
What do you think?
Ok sorry about the size, how do I make them smaller?
TheViking
29-08-2004, 13:40
Hi again... :wink:
how do I make them smaller?
You have to edit them in your picture program. Then click resize and reduce them to a smaller size. This is the way I do it. Remember to save the changes before exiting. :wink:
bit teeny now YB ;) .. convex grind?
bit teeny now YB ;)
I'm working on it
.. convex grind?
Yep
Ok how about those. Comments on state please.
http://www.mhcable.com/~yocraft/sosak/convex.htm
fastest way to clean that up is to go with wet'n'dry, in descending grit ... the above will give you an idea how to deal with it. I like to use WD40 with the wet'n'dry and sometimes I add pumice to the WD40. ..
best technique would be ....... find out who did it and :oT:
no .. that would be illegal ... ok .. second technique ..... if you've got a bit of flat wood, a piece of 2x1 planed would be ok, wrap it with cloth and then with Wet'n'dry and use this as you would a file working towards and away from the edge and not in to the edge as it would be dangerous and also cut in to the wet'n'dry ... work with the handle firmly clamped in something if possible and with the blade facing away from you. The cloth will give you that bit of give and flexibility to conform to the curve of the convex edge, if you have some closed cell foam that would be even better than the cloth (closed cell foam is what cheap camping mats are made from).
My Convex sharpener is a 16" long piece of oak 50mm wide and 8mm thick, which I have glued a strip of 4mm closed cell foam too and I wrap wet'n'dry around that
You'll find it in Halfords, car parts shops, B&Q and homebase sell it but they don't have a great range ..... it's like sandpaper but it's waterproof and uses silicon carbide as the abrasive
Ok so I take a block of wood stick some closed cell foam onto it (would a mousemat bottom side up work?) and then wrap this Wet n' Dry round the block and spray some WD40 onto it??
Then clamp the axe in place and work the block towards and away from the edge then turn it over and do it on the other side until the edge is cleared up??
A little more information on how to achieve this and design specifications and more sharpening information would be a god send. :o): :biggthump
mouse mat is fine
design specifications? :yikes:
http://www.mhcable.com/~yocraft/sosak/soft.gif
that's more or less the technique ... except with an axe .. it is easier to manouvre the sharpener rather than the blade
clamp the axe with the edge facing away from you and work the edge by pushing away from you
tenbears10
29-08-2004, 17:36
Hoodoo posted this pic of exactly what Simon is describing hope he wont mind me copying it
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/images7/axehoning2b.jpg
Oh and Scott I've got three older brothers so I know only too well the situation you are in of clearing up after they have got pissed and messed with your stuff. Admittedly not for a few years now but still. My oldest brother once caught my hamster after it had escaped and released it into the garden thinking it was a mouse. He realised next day what he had done and confessed................... TEN YEARS later!!!
Bill
Ok thanks for your help :biggthump
design specifications? :yikes:
I just meant more information on the size, materials and construction of the block but I've got it pretty much covered now thank you.
Do you push along the length of the bevel/edge or the width? The way the block is being held in that picture looks like you do the width and keeping with the blade curvature?
Almost :wink:
that's a good field sharpening technique, although I would have the edge facing away for safety reasons (leftover from supervising students in woodwork) .. for home maintanence, you can go a lot bigger with the sharpener and save a bit of time
I would tend to work diagonally to the edge from top to bottom
Ok so tommorow I will get the materials and make me one of these. What went n Dry grits do you reccommend to sort the current state of the axe out and for future convex sharpening?
Ok so tommorow I will get the materials and make me one of these. What went n Dry grits do you reccommend to sort the current state of the axe out and for future convex sharpening because i know theres more than just fine, medium and rough. ( well there is on sandpaper :nana: )
if it's a real mess then i'd start with 240 .. if it's not so bad .. start with 320 or 400 .. and go through 600, 1000, and then finish with 2000 and finally strop... and you will have a shaving sharp axe with a nice polished edge :wink:
Ok thanks for all your help. :super: :You_Rock_
One last question if you don't mind, how many strokes should I do on each side before going onto the next grit. Given my experience of stone sharpening I would say 8-10 but as I have no experience of this type of sharpening I'm interested in what you think.
I haven't found any places that sell wet and dry in a grit finer then 600. could you suggest some please
Use The Force Young Bushman :wink:
when you've cleaned up with the first grit .. i.e. can't see the damage, go to the next in an opposite direction ..... in other words .. start tip to toe . and then with the next grit, toe to tip ... and keep woking till you can't see the previous lines
tenbears10
29-08-2004, 19:35
I haven't found any places that sell wet and dry in a grit finer then 600. could you suggest some please
Recomended to me by Simon, this place is good
http://www.tiranti.co.uk/index.asp
Look under files and abrasives for their waterproof abrasive paper they go to 1200 grit and if you contact them they might do other grits?
Bill
oow ouch Bill :wink: Tiranti are good for some things ... but
http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=1WS10180
even the local Halfords will do down to 1200 grit, though
Out of interest, what is the name of this system of sharpening?
tenbears10
29-08-2004, 20:04
oow ouch Bill :wink: Tiranti are good for some things ... but
http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=1WS10180
even the local Halfords will do down to 1200 grit, though
Sorry Simon recomending something on your behalf. I ordered one of the riflers you suggested but their system is a bit oldfashioned, order online than the man phones you etc etc.
So halfords it is for wet + dry then.
Bill
tenbears10
29-08-2004, 20:07
Hold on, the place I suggested sells wet + dry for .47 inc vat and axminster is .53 inc vat so why are axminster better? Simon you monkey?
Bill
well blow me down :yikes: .. tiranti are not usually known for being an economic alternative :wink:
Simon the Monkey :wave:
Aintcha got a local engineering firm?
I buy quite a bit of wet & dry and I'd have a fit if I was paying 53p. That said I couldn't tell you what I am paying; but 50p for a bit of posh sandpaper!
actually .. i rarely buy it at all ... it seems to fall off the shelf at work ;)
From where on the axe head do you start sharpening. Surely doing it from only the edge would not keep with the convex grind. I'm confused about what technique you use to sharpen it with the Hoodoo Hone ( yes i discovered the name:wink:).
rapidboy
30-08-2004, 09:18
At bottom of page ,120 grit to 1200 grit
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat.jsp?ts=53584&id=101158
RB
tenbears10
30-08-2004, 11:16
At bottom of page ,120 grit to 1200 grit
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat.jsp?ts=53584&id=101158
RB
That's more like it, about 27p a sheet.
Bill
Hi,
I have all the bits ready to be assembled. I bought a pack of 10 assorted Wet'n'Dry sheets for £5.99 :yikes: from Halfords from 350 - 1200 grit.
Thanks for your help guys. :You_Rock_
Roving Rich
30-08-2004, 12:10
Thanks for Asking Young bushman, i learned some stuff too :wink:
Cheers Guys
Rich
OK well I have made one, and I have 400, 600, 800 and 1200 grit strips ready to sharpen away. My small, simple mind still cannot grasp the sharpening technique. This is what I think i have to do. Clamp the axe so the head is facing away from you, then working from the top corner of head push diagonally towards and away BUT NOT ONTO the edge and rotating the Hone slightly to take in the curvature. Do this until you can't see the damage any more then change over to the other side. Then, change to the 600 grit and so on.. Then strop. Please correct me if i have made any mistakes.
Do you have any pictures?
sounds like you've got it about right YB :) ... obviously you don't want to go right round the edge because you want to put an edge on the axe and not round it off ... I think once you actually get started you'll get in to the swing of it quite quickly
no pictures unfortunately as my digi cam had an accident ......
I'm reduced to scanning my knife work at the moment and it's gonna be tough for me to climb on the scanner with my vice and axe and operate photoshop at the same time ... I might fall off and hurt myself :o):
OK, Listen very carefully if you do not have a hoodoo hone MAKE ONE! YOU NEED NEVER BUY STONES AGAIN!. I have achieved a sharp edge although not razor, Halfords only do grit upto 1200 so is this not fine enough to achieve it? Do I need to go somewhere else to get a finer grit? I will post a picture of the technique I was using and suggestions on what I could do to get a sharper edge would be very helpful :wink: :-) .
To show you how good the Hone is for Honing and Polishing an edge look here:
Before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/YoungBushman/100_0760.jpg
After:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/YoungBushman/100_0765.jpg
tenbears10
30-08-2004, 23:04
Well done Scott :biggthump
If you strop the edge with some paste it will be like a razor. You've done the hard work it will just take a few passes on the strop (an old belt is great) to finish it.
Now keep it away from your brother and his mates :shock:
Bill
Cheers Bill :biggthump
What paste do you suggest?
Well done scott ... told you it was easy once you got the hang of it :) ... 1200 is ok for a razor edge .. just don't push hard... lightly brush over the top with your last passes and it won't be as aggresive ..... finish with the back of a belt ... don't really need paste . but most abrasive pastes work .. I've even heard of people using toothpaste ... I've used T Cut in the past .. I now just use extra fine pumice powder