View Full Version : Anyone have experience with Helle knives?
climberslacker
19-01-2008, 05:35
Hey I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the helle brand of knives, I was in particular looking at the fjelkniv. Any comments on it? Thanks a ton!!
good knifes
I will agree with that, great knife for the money and a good starter blade type as the laminate gives a good edge without the rusting of 01 carbon. I had a futura for years and gave it to a friend only after making my own.
I have a Helle Polar and a Helle Troll.
I like them both, good knives and excellent service from Helle when I did have a problem.
They keep a good edge, and seem to survive my damp garden and woodland work without rusting. Not as heavy as some, not a bad thing that in many ways, and comfortable to use.
Decent working kit.
cheers,
Toddy
climberslacker
19-01-2008, 16:34
May I ask, what was the problem? And do you think that they could stand up to normal camp chores like splitting wood (with a baton)?
I wouldn't batton them because of the rather thin hidden tang.
I have a Helle Harding and it's been great so far. It doens't cast sparks though.
Very nice knife, but have an axe with you if this is your only knife
May I ask, what was the problem? And do you think that they could stand up to normal camp chores like splitting wood (with a baton)?
My first Helle Polar delaminated when I was cutting tree ties. :( No one here or on BB had ever seen this happen before.
Helle could not have been more helpful. No dispute, no hassle and I had a replacement in my hand in less than a week.
I use the knives for everything from preparing hides to carving to battoning to split timbers and have never had a problem. Just beware tree ties :rolleyes:
Remember a tanged blade is not a weak blade and it is perfectly capable of performing all the usual camp or bushcraft tasks.
cheers,
Toddy
climberslacker
19-01-2008, 17:10
I have heard that a finger guard is bad for bushcraft, would the guard on the fjelkniv be bad, I would say its more of a comfort thing, but will it interfere with anything?
Oh that's big one, and contentious for some reason. :rolleyes:
This is a link to the fjelkniven
http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Helle/Helle-Fjellkniven/p-92-150-1123/
usual disclaimers, no connections with the company, etc.
To be blunt, the best knife at the time you need one, is the one you have. If you become comfortable and capable using one with a guard, then that's the knife you use and you learn to use it with all it's abilities or restrictions.
There's a lot of machismo talked about guards, big boys don't need them kind of thing :confused: , but that's mince. Some people disdain them, others think that's ridiculous posturing :) .
Personally I have no issues, but then the knife I used for many years had one and I thought it a good thing, it save my hand from a lot of skelfs.
Yet my present knife doesn't have one and I don't miss it.
It never got in my way when I wanted to use my knife but others may (make that will :rolleyes: ) disagree.
Must be someone on the forum who actually has this knife.
cheers,
Toddy
falling rain
19-01-2008, 23:27
I have the Eggen http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Helle/Helle-Helle-Eggen/p-92-150-1120/ and it does all I need admirably. As mentioned not the best sparks in the world but with the right technique you can still get enough sparks especially if you're using charcloth which is easy. Very sharp. :)
MartiniDave
20-01-2008, 14:10
I also have an Eggen, in fact I've been using it just this morning.:)
I think it is a good knife, it doesn't cast great sparks using a firesteel, unless you use the very tip of the spine, on the bevel. It is a lot lighter knife than my Woodlore, but seems perfectly adequate for most uses. I would secon the comment about battoning, I have seen a couple of Helles develop loose handles during the duration of a week long bushcraft course. I do think the Eggen's sheath could do with being a bit more robust, but used with care has not been a real problem.
Dave
I also have an Eggen, in fact I've been using it just this morning.:)
I do think the Eggen's sheath could do with being a bit more robust, but used with care has not been a real problem.
Dave
Apoll's for interjecting
Dave, I've found that the full "hot dip"in beeswax, will solve that problem.
Just ensure you're pretty quick in tippping out the excess of what went inside!
Ceeg
climberslacker
20-01-2008, 17:59
sooo, the only logical question now would be, should I get one?
I too have a Helle Eggen and I think it is a great knife, really holds an edge, nice size, very comfortable in the hand even after prolonged carving / use.
Thanks for the tip on making the sheath a bit stiffer, I will give that a go. What if I blocked the top, or does it need to be dipped / soaked inside and out, would it be OK just doing the outside?
In answer to your question of "So do I get one" my answer would be yes, especially at the price you can get them.
I have a Harding. Very pleased. Holds a good edge for a suprisingly long time (compared to Mora). I baton it through wrist thich billets of wood with no problems of chipping the blade or anything. Nice sheath too. Only gripe is that it doesn't cast sparks; but then again I prefer to use a dedicated striker with my firesteel. If I lose mine I'll buy another.
Jedadiah
20-01-2008, 23:44
I have a Lapplandskniven. I'ts a fantastic camp knife. Baton's, whittles, carves (meat and Wood) great feather sticks and it cast's sparks. It complements my Lupo just fine. Infact, it is competing with my Cegga for the 'Large item' place in my Bergan. It's my only experience with Helle, but if it's anything to go by, They are good!
Dr Onion
20-01-2008, 23:51
I have a Jegermester - great all round camp knife. It's done everything I have asked of it without complaint - even throws good sparks from a firesteel.
I only have 2 knives and the other is a Frost Clipper.
Dr O
Inwood, you get the full effect of stiffening-up, only if you do a full dip, inside and out.And I mean as in "wood like"
But an exterior hot dip will give more stiffening than the "wax'n'melt" which is applied with a brush, then hot-hairdryered.
Ceeg
But as I said, with the full dip you really must ensure that you "tip out" the excess, sharpish; or you'll find you can't get the knife back inside.....moreso if its a very new sheath and tight fitting anyway, in which case I would go for the external hotdip and give it some wear/use, before graduating to the full thing.
.
Please be aware that all the hotwax techniques will result in a significant darkening of the original leather.
I too have the Jergemester, excellent knife, maybe a little too long in the blade for some, but i love mine, it's strapped to my side all day, it's a great user.
Mark
I have a Helle Futura and have had it years, 3 layer blade very sharp and easy to keep sharp, very well made knife, the only problem I had was the sheath, I made my own to overcome this and in fact I keep on going back to use it over most of my other knives. I have done all my carving with it and I find it light and well balanced to use for most tasks, I always cary an axe so I dont really use it for battoning. For the money I think they are good knives and you can't go wrong with most of the range.
MartiniDave
21-01-2008, 12:33
Seagull,
Thanks for the tip. It's been on the "to do " list for some time now, so I must get the old digit out!
Dave
I was given a Nying about 25 years ago, and it's a little beauty. Even after such a long time it is in great condition, although I find having such a short blade makes it a pain to sharpen (mostly it's curve!). The Nying is too little to be used as a serious bushcraft knife, but if the rest of the Helle range has the same quality, you can't go wrong there. I was considering getting an Eggen or Fjellkniven a couple of years ago, but I went for the Fallkniven F1 instead - a very nice knife, but the plastic handle isn't as classy as the Helle wood.
Oh, yeah, I also had the old model Speider (scout) knife: pretty basic, but the carbon steel blade was seriously sharp. Lucky Nordic Scouts! They are allowed to have proper knives.....
Slán,
Mal
I have a helle knife i picked up in italy last feb and i must say that it has been very reliable tool, only prob is the sheath is a bit on the soft side.
Boon
I have the Helle Fjellkniven and like it a lot :) . It has a very comfortable handle and I don't find the guard to be a problem. The steel is very easy to sharpen and strop to a razor edge. The outer stainless layers are quite soft and scratch easily and are not hard enough to strike sparks from a ferrocerium rod, but I think you could overcome this by filing the outer layers to expose the inner hardened core on a small section of the spine.
Overall I find it to be a great knife at a very good price:)
I got myself a Helle Fjellman in Norway becuase they are small, v sharp, comfortable handle, etc.
http://www.helleknives.com/product12.html
I would argue that these are pretty good for 'everyday' use, general cutting, etc. However, I'm guessing that the abuse you would give a 'proper' full-tang, 4-5" bladed, survival knife (like Woodlore or SBT) might be a bit much for such a small blade. It could be carried as a back-up to a primary blade and I like the Fjellman for pretty much everything except battoning and hammering into a tree and standing on (as Mors would probably want to do). Because of its versatility, size and weight, this is the one that lives in my go-bag. It's size makes it much more practical for the vast majority of tasks and you're less likely to scare the neighbours with it. :eek:
Thanks for the tips on stiffening up the sheath Seagull.:)
I dont mind if it darkens the leather as it is quite a light colour as it is, so win, win situation by the look of it, just hope I dont fudge it up.
Is there a link with a bit more detail on the proceedure on here anywhere that you know of.
just to answer a couple of questions: How much wax will I need, how to heat it safely, etc etc.:dunno:
climberslacker
24-01-2008, 01:25
well, I just ordered one, along with my first mora!! I will post a full fledged review of it as soon as i get it! By the way, how does one do a review on this site, as im kind of new hear??
Have a look at this:
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20283
climberslacker
25-01-2008, 18:06
Hey it just came in the mail!!!! I love it! I am now the proud parent of a mora #1 and a helle fjelkniv! So far, I love the weight and size of the handle!
Congratulations :D
You will now become an Honourary member of the Bald Forearm Club, the Institute of the Shavings Clogged Hoover, and the Elastoplast of Choice Brigade :rolleyes:
Enjoy ! :D
cheers,
Toddy
climberslacker
25-01-2008, 19:54
yep! that was the first thing i did with it!! My arm looks kinda wierd now!!
Thanks for the tips on stiffening up the sheath Seagull.:)
I dont mind if it darkens the leather as it is quite a light colour as it is, so win, win situation by the look of it, just hope I dont fudge it up.
Is there a link with a bit more detail on the proceedure on here anywhere that you know of.
just to answer a couple of questions: How much wax will I need, how to heat it safely, etc etc.:dunno:
Sorry fellah, I have been away.
All I can do, is to tell you what I do, but there are better ways, have a butchers at Erics posts.
Nick one pan that wont be missed; something as near in radius ,as your sheath length.
Have a hunt around for a commercial beekeeper and get some bulk blocks of pure wax and , at the present"going price " of wax, you will need about £7 worth...it is dear but you can use it overagain.
While melting yer wax over a gentle heat, you can be warming up the leather with a hair dryer.
When the wax has justmelted, you whoosh your item through it , covering it completely, (inside and out, for the full dip).but try to keep the item away from the bottom of the pan........sure you will get some uneveness and blotches, but you even those out by use of the hairdryer.
Also, watch out for "slightly warm" fingers......and use plenty of newspaper on your worktops.
But! for just the "wax'n melt", all you need is one very small block of wax about one third the size of your palm and an inch deep ; which you melt in anything, even a clean bean tin......heat up the leather with a hairdryer, then use an old natural bristle brush to daub the wax over the surface of the item........(plenty of paper to cover worktops.)...now, when covered it will look hideously blotchy, but you just waft it over with the hairdryer again and again, watching out for drips all over the kitchen floor...
Unless you want to be a pro, then you best have at hand, a few ramekins in which to pour the unused wax '''and youll have a nice block to use whenever you want.
And, when cooled, you just bung em in the deep freeze for a half hour and this makes it dead easy to remove;
Hope its been of help
Ceeg
MartiniDave
11-02-2008, 12:40
Quick update.
I managed to get some shed-time this weekend, so I hgad a go at hot waxing a couple of sheaths. Being a bit catious I started of with a Brusletto Balder sheath. Once you star it seems you have to keep going. The result looked pretty awful to begin with, but after a bit of brushing/heating/brushing/heating it all fell into place and didn't look too bad, so I put the knife in and set it aside to cool.
I then repeated the above with my Helle Eggen sheath. This one seemed to go much better, taking the wax more evenly.
I now have 2 knife sheaths that are much darker, stiffer and altogether safer in the way they hold the knife without flexing.
Knire retention is much improved too, in fact the only problem I had was getting the little Balder out of the sheath after cooling, because the wax had stuck it in as it hardened! Great car was needed to free this little 1 1/2" razor!
Thanks for the tips guys.
Dave
Martini Dave, the ultra-tight fit,will eventually ease due to use, but you can hurry things along a bit, just by wafting it warm, with the hairdryer and rewiping the inner surface with a non-fluffy wipecloth...then just re-form that bit, while still hot.
With the full dip, I've found, (if you like its effect) that you can easily impart a blindingly shiny finish, just by buffing the nearly dry surface ,with the side of a blunt bladed butterknife.
Ceeg