View Full Version : The Skookum Bush Tool (mini review)
I’m not someone who gets all that excited about knives, they are tools for a job and little more, but I must admit taking on a notable air of impatience when I was informed that a skookum Bushtool was on its way.
The Skookum is a dedicated Bushcraft/survival knife designed Mors Kochanski and hand made by Rod Garcia.
Few people in the world are more qualified than Mors Kochanski to define the requirements of a Bushcraft knife, and rather than try to explain his thinking on the subject, I’ll take the lazy way out and quote him from his book “Bushcraft” (with permission)
All general-use knives should have the blade tip close to the profile centerline of the handle. The back of the handle and the back of the blade should be on the same line. The back of the blade should not be thinned down or sharpened so that a baton can be used more effectively without being cut up. There is no advantage to a two-edged blade in bush living.
The blade should be of a good quality carbon steel, from two and a half to three millimeters thick and about two to two and a half centimeters wide. This size of blade is light in weight, yet difficult to break. The steel should be soft enough to be maintained at a shaving edge with common sharpening tools, without frequent sharpening. Such steel is found in Mora (Sweden), Solingen (Germany) or Sheffield (England) knives. Carbon, unlike stainless steel, can be used as the striker in the flint and steel method of fire-lighting. Inexpensive stainless steels have had a bad reputation with respect to producing a keen edge let alone holding it. The Mora stainless steels however, are every bit as good as their carbon steels.
The metal of the knife blade should extend for the full-length of the handle (a full tang) for strength.
The handle should be a durable, water-resistant material that can be shaped to the user’s hand if necessary.
The knife should have a strong pommel that will protect the handle if the knife is driven tip first deep into wood.
The curvature of the cutting edge should extend for the full-length of the blade. This cuts well and is one of the best shapes that quickly sharpens to a razor’s edge. The knife blade should have a sharp enough point to penetrate deep into wood with a minimum of effort.
The knife handle should be about as long as the width of your palm. A handle that is too thick or too thin fatigues the hand and causes blisters. The cross-section of the handle should be an oval instead of round or rectangular. An oval handle provides an adequate indication of the direction of the cutting edge and raises fewer blisters than handles with angular or rounded corners.
A guard on a bush knife is in the way and detracts from many operations. It prevents the use of a simple, secure deep sheath. Some people prefer a guard for fear of slipping forward onto the knife edge, but unless the knife is used for stabbing, the hand should never slip in this way. In all my years of instructing I do not recall an injury due to the lack of a guard.
As a test of strength, a good knife should not break when driven four centimeters into a standing tree at right-angles to the grain, and the handle bears your weight as you stand on it.
It arrived just in the nick of time for my departure to Borneo, certainly not the environment it was designed for, and a harsh environment for a carbon steel Bushcraft knife but Mors states that he intended this tool to function as a practical ‘Survival Knife’ and in my opinion to be qualified as such, it should perform in any environment it is required to.
Things got off to a bit of a bad start initially, I am in the habit of starting the splitting of light/small wood rounds by placing the edge where I want the split and striking the spine with the heel of my palm to start the split, progressing to a baton only if this fails to get things going.
Unfortunately the 90 angle on the spine of the SBT is quite a bit sharper than my past knives, and whilst it casts incredible sparks form a ferrocium rod and makes a superb scraper, three heel strikes in rapid succession to the spine cut the heel of my hand to ribbons (literally!). After I had stopped bleeding I decided that a change of technique was required for this tool!
This is nothing against the knife though, had I thought about it it’s an obvious mistake on my part, it was simply force of habit to use the knife as I have for years.
(Note. The spine isn’t so sharp that it would cut into your hand when choking up on the blade for carving etc. just don’t try smacking it with the heel you unprotected palm as the bone structure beneath the skin acts as an anvil with your skin pinched between it and a hard narrow piece of steel, something has to give. You should also be aware that compared to Mors, I have baby soft hands :rolleyes: )
With this hiccup out of the way however the knife really impressed me, and I mean really really impressed me, it’s now my favourite bushcraft knife by far.
The A2 carbon steel surpassed my expectations for corrosion resistance, naturally I took great care to avoid rust but I expected to be fighting a losing battle in the jungle, instead I found it didn’t need quite so much care as I had feared. One morning when I realised that after a river crossing the night before I had forgotten to dry and oil the blade before going to bed and it had sat at 30 centigrade in a wet sheath all night, I drew it fearing the worst, only to find to my delight only light spot rusting here and there.
It took serious abuse (hammering in 3 inch nails with the base plate and splitting logs all day to build a basecamp kitchen) and shrugged it off without harm, without raising a single blister on my part and handled the finer tasks with the same finesse as a Finnish Puukko
Firstly a close up of my hand after it had healed up, I wont be doing that again! :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010185.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/IMGP0778.jpg
Some shots of the knife in camp, with some camp furniture it was used to make:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010095-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010089.jpg
In the jungle things often get quite slippery, this was no problem with the Skookum at all:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010043.jpg
Splitting wood was no problem either, even when the round was wider than the length of the blade, as the solid handle arrangement allowed you to hammer on the back of the handle to drive the blade though without any subsequent damage to the knife:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010042.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010041-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010040-1.jpg
In the building of the kitchen for our ‘Bushpig Basecamp’ we used nails, as this was to be a permanent structure intended to be in use for years to come. The entire structure was built using the Skookum not just for cutting but also as a hammer, for most knives this would be outrageous abuse, for the skookum however it was just another days work, it finished the day none the worse for wear.
It works very well as an emergency hammer, hammering with the skookum is however slow going!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010023-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010024-1.jpg
Removing bark slabs for construction of the kitchen:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010029.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010028-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/DSCF0632.jpg
Our camp kitchen, Dave on the left with the skookum in hand, myself on the right, kitchen consists of a raised platform to keep the fire safe from flooding in the rain, the fire built on a sand basin (made with the bark), a rack for drying fire wood and of course a roof:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/DSCF0636.jpg
a jungle shelter, also built with assistance from the Skookum:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/P1010336.jpg
The Skookum Bush tool is as tough as nails (tougher actually) and super reliable, whilst also maintaining the finesse of a true carver, which is a very tricky balance and a testament to Rods accurate interpretation of Mors requirements. It gets a five star rating from me, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to anyone looking for a no nonsense tool for the wilderness. You certainly couldn’t get me to part with mine.
For more information see: www.skookumbushtool.com
Great review. It's always nice to know that I'm not the only total devotee to the Kochanski/Garcia masterpiece!
I have no connection with the maker or designer but can only endorse what Stuart has said about this remarkable piece of kit.
It looks as though your SBT was given the work out it needed! If only I could do likewise here in snowy Gloucestershire!
Great read thanks :) Sounds like a great tool also.
I should provide a little background information on how this Knife came about as it’s a pretty interesting. Its the story of the fanatical dedication of two individuals.
The first individual, Mors Kochanski needs little or no introduction, considered by many to be the father of the modern Bushcraft movement, has spent all of his 67 year life studying, practicing and developing skills and techniques for survival and Bushcraft. His work inspired at a young age the individuals who went on to popularise the Bushcraft ethos by bringing it into peoples living rooms via television programs.
Mors described in his book “Bushcraft” what the ideal Bushknife should be, but in reality he always struggled to find a knife that met the outlined requirements, whilst also being robust enough to be absolutely dependable in a scenario where life may hang in the balance, it seemed that such a ideal survival knife just did not exist.
In 2002, Rod Garcia picket up a copy of ‘Bushcraft’ at his local market, and like many before him he was inspired. He signed up for one of Mors courses and after 6 days in a snow-covered Canadian wilderness with Mors he was set on a path that he says changed his life, only one thing niggled at him though. That elusive knife, how could something so fundamental to life in the wilderness be so totally absent?
So in 2005 Rod decided he was going to make things right, the only problem, Rod had never made a knife….. But that would prove no obstacle. Finding a local knife maker he went about learning the trade.
Then when he felt confident, he sold his Toyota Land cruiser to raise the money for knife making equipment and with pages 109 to 134 of Kochanski’s “Bushcraft” as his bible he began work, producing prototype after prototype in search of his grail.
The Date of annual ‘Rat Root Rendezvous’ (Canada’s Bushmoot or rather the other way around, as BCUK’s Moot was inspired by the RRR) came around and Rod attended, taking with him some of his rough Prototypes to pass around and obtain advice form other participants. Also in attendance was one Mors Kochanski, it wasn’t long before one of Rods creations found its way into his hands and he inquired “Whose knives are these? These knives are as close as anybody has come to the perfect bush knife that I have seen!”
The two men discussed the prototypes in depth and Mors provided a great deal of encouragement and advice, which spurred Rod on to another 4 months of alterations, Tweaks and improvements until finally the Skookum Bush tool was born.
Rod sent three finished Skookums to Mors Kochanski, and held his breath……. For three weeks, until finally he got a phone call:
“You are the first person to make my concept of an Ideal bush knife since my book was published in 1987” – Mors Kochanski
It was just what Rod wanted to hear, his quest for the ultimate no compromise
Bushcraft knife which blended the finesse of a Scandinavian carver with the rugged
bombproof construction of a serious survival tool seamlessly.
It had taken 4 years, he’d sold his car and learnt a whole new vocation, but his obsession had driven him to create his hearts desire.
Other people desired it too, and Rod is happy to use his new found knowledge of knife making to oblige, Mors is delighted to endorse the man who made his definition of a bushcraft knife a reality. Rods order book is full, and he should be able to replace that land cruiser now!
When you pick up and use this knife you get a sense that these two people really put their heart and soul into getting it right. Mors in using lifetime of experience to define the essence of the bushcraft knife and Rod in obsessively working to realize it.
It looks deceptively simple, there is no flourish or fancy in this tool, no ostentatious marketing. It is the type of perfectly refined simplicity that cannot be appreciated without being experienced. The kind of ingeniously flawless thinking that receives admiring nods when a device achieves with no moving parts something that had previously required hundreds.
Such simplicity is often overlooked and underappreciated, but to achieve the simple perfectly is perhaps the greatest achievement, simplicity is elusive. The simpler something is the less there is to hide the flaws. Like a perfect circle drawn freehand.
Earlyturtle
12-01-2008, 18:43
Looks like a pretty good knife, my only qualm is with the name "Bush Tool".
Gwhtbushcraft
12-01-2008, 19:22
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb67/Gwhtbushcraft/New%20knife/bcuk/morsknife.jpg
Here is a picture of the knife anotated by Mors if anyone is interested.
George:)
An excellent review!
I wish I had one :p
Matt Weir
12-01-2008, 22:25
Stuart,
As well as being a great speaker - I was enthralled on your 'water walk' at the moot last year - you are also a talented writer who makes one want to read on until the end.
Write a book about your adventures and I'll be the first to buy it (signed of course :D)
Enjoyed the review and the extra background info. Thanks :D Chris
-Switch-
13-01-2008, 01:06
Stuart,
Write a book about your adventures and I'll be the first to buy it (signed of course :D)
Please do this :)
Good review by the way Stuart, very informative.
I see you managed to get hold of that old Swedish billhook you were after too...
Looks like a pretty good knife, my only qualm is with the name "Bush Tool".
"bush Tool" is an apt description of what it is, its name is "Skookum" is Canadian slang term used to describe somthing which is strong, able, solid, reliable, genuine, stout, brave; fine or splendid.
its a Skookum Bush Tool
I see you managed to get hold of that old Swedish billhook you were after too...
yes, not as versatile as a golock or parang of course but it has its own advantages and its vastly safer to use when working and travelling alone in remote jungle areas where your often tired and lack a sure footing.
it would be great if somone started making these again, would be nice if they improved the method of joining the handle to the head too
BorderReiver
13-01-2008, 12:23
Great review and background information.
Thank you.
Good, informative article, Stuart.
I have a question for you about the handles. I have no experience of micarta so I'm interested to know how they 'feel' and work in hot and humid conditions. Was there any swelling of the handles, did water get underneath the scales?
You also mentioned some light corrosion on the blade - did this pit or was it easy to remove? I'm assuming that the blade was the O1 steel, judging by your comments on ferrocium sparking. Although you haven't experience of the other two steel types offered, do you think either may present a significant advantage over the O1?
Actually - I've just re-read the article and you have the A2 steel blade. So, I'll rephrase my question: From the weblink you mention, it seems to suggest that the A2 doesn't spark - but you managed it? Also, do you think the A2 blade will hold any significant advantages over the O1?
There. That's better now.
Thanks!
I really liked your article. Can I ask you what you have paid fot this knife including the shipping?
I have no experience of micarta so I'm interested to know how they 'feel' and work in hot and humid conditions.
Micarta feels almost exactly like wood, a fine micro texture like the 'grain' found in wood, makes the handle feels 'warm' and has an excellent texture for grip , just like like wood really
Was there any swelling of the handles, did water get underneath the scales? absolutely none, on both counts
You also mentioned some light corrosion on the blade - did this pit or was it easy to remove? no pitting, just spots, easily removed, 01 would have been a mess!
I'm assuming that the blade was the O1 steel, judging by your comments on ferrocium sparking. Although you haven't experience of the other two steel types offered, do you think either may present a significant advantage over the O1?
[I]Actually - I've just re-read the article and you have the A2 steel blade. So, I'll rephrase my question: From the weblink you mention, it seems to suggest that the A2 doesn't spark - but you managed it?
its a common myth, but in reality the quality and quantity of sparks cast from Ferrocium rod have absolutely nothing what-so-ever to do with the metallurgy of the steel used to strike the rod. It’s only the hardness of the material and the angle of the striking edge that effect the quality of spark, glass for example produces great sparks.
the confusion arises from the miss-use of the word FLINT when referring to ferrocium rods, FLINT as in the sedimentary cryptocrystalline silicate form of the mineral quartz AKA the glassy black rock used for flint knapping, will not cast sparks from a stainless steel edge.
note that Rod says "(O1) will allow the user to strike a spark off the spine using the flint and steel method of fire lighting ( A2 has a little too much alloy to get a good spark)."
he is talking about the rock, not ferrocium rods
A2 is a carbon steel, so it will still cast some sparks from flint, though not as well as 01 steel blade would. both however are pretty lame at casing sparks when compared to a proper strike-A-Light or the back of a hacksaw blade.
With Ferrocium rods both the A2, 01, and CPM 3V versions will cast identical sparks
Also, do you think the A2 blade will hold any significant advantages over the O1? my experience with the Skookum (my first A2 blade, all others are 01) suggests it holds its edge a little longer, and is considerably more corrosion resistant, rod says it should be harder to sharpen but i cant say i have noticed any discernable difference
Rod is currently making me an SBT Mk1 in S30V stainless. I'll let you know what it's like and how I get on with it when it arrives - soon, I hope! If it's anything like my 01 version, it will be utterly superb.:D
Buckley8219
14-01-2008, 08:54
Great review Stuart,
I recieved a skookum a few months back (A2) and I am seriously impressed with it! Rod is a fantastic chap, and went out of his way to accomodate me.
In my opinion the best 'user' knife I have ever handled and a real bargain at the current exchange rate!
Apologies for getting a little bit steel-nurd. Just trying to de-mith views on steel
A2 is a better steel than 01 if you are looking from a purely performance perspective. It actually seems to have a little more toughness than 01 better edge holding and more corrosion resistance.
But some like the way 01 reacts to tannins in wood etc.
And dont forget on a big blade(not applicable to a skookum) 01 can have a soft back making it extremely tough
In actual fact the cpm3v would be far superior than both the A2 and 01 (from a performance perspective)
Edit: all of the above depends on proper HT
Burnt Ash
14-01-2008, 18:34
Personally, I have to say that I regard hammering nails in with the pommel as 'knife abuse' and potentially dangerous. But then I wouldn't attempt to batten with the heel of my hand, either.
I pestered Tiley to show me his SBT on a couple of occasions at the Wilderness Gathering 2007, because I was so impressed when I first saw it. It's a really nice knife with an interesting (if slightly wacky) sheath. Definitely one on my wish list for the future.
Burnt Ash
C_Claycomb
14-01-2008, 21:29
If I recall, the way Mors suggests using a knife as a hammer for nails is to use the flat of the blade and a baton. He does it with dinky little Moras.
In my opinion, it is only abuse if the knife isn't designed in such a way as to handle it. The Skookum has a steel butt, not for balance, or because its full tang needs it, but for a striking surface. If you can't hammer with it I don't see why it would be there. Since every other detail has been thought out very carefully, I am sure that Rod will have considered that a steel butt will tempt people to use it as a hammer and that he will have built it accordingly.
Only a supposition, but I think it is a fair one.
Excellent reveiw Stuart!!
Angus Og
14-01-2008, 21:35
Great review Stuart.
hollowdweller
14-01-2008, 22:30
Outstanding review. I've got one and the design has really impressed me taking it backpacking and stuff but you really put it thru the paces!! :beerchug: :You_Rock_
Burnt Ash
15-01-2008, 08:06
If I recall, the way Mors suggests using a knife as a hammer for nails is to use the flat of the blade and a baton. He does it with dinky little Moras.
In my opinion, it is only abuse if the knife isn't designed in such a way as to handle it. The Skookum has a steel butt, not for balance, or because its full tang needs it, but for a striking surface. If you can't hammer with it I don't see why it would be there. Since every other detail has been thought out very carefully, I am sure that Rod will have considered that a steel butt will tempt people to use it as a hammer and that he will have built it accordingly.
Only a supposition, but I think it is a fair one.
Excellent reveiw Stuart!!
Crushing some nuts or seeds, maybe; tenderising a root or something, well, okay. But nails? Nah! Supposing your aim isn't true on the pommel, through tiredness or whatever reason. What is going to hit the nail head?
If you want to hammer nails, use a hammer. Or, possibly, the back of a suitable axe. My tuppence worth.
Burnt Ash
Crushing some nuts or seeds, maybe; tenderising a root or something, well, okay. But nails? Nah! Supposing your aim isn't true on the pommel, through tiredness or whatever reason. What is going to hit the nail head?
If you want to hammer nails, use a hammer. Or, possibly, the back of a suitable axe. My tuppence worth.
Burnt Ash
I agree. It begs the question....how many people go off into the woods with 6" nails in their rucksack? If you have the means to take serious amounts of equipment by canoe, packhorse or landrover to set up basecamp there's probably room for a hammer....if you're travelling light without a heavy tool, my guess is you'll be looking to improvise with whatever cordage you can acquire...
hammock monkey
15-01-2008, 10:44
great looking tool! thanks for that Stuart.
nails are a fantastically useful, although putting them in with a kinfe isnt ideal, it wouldnt bother me personally (maybe not 6inch).
Having the ability to pound foodstuffs etc with the blade is very useful.
I'm not a knife enthusiast, but this skookum looks great. Properly useable.
I agree. It begs the question....how many people go off into the woods with 6" nails in their rucksack?
I have done mate. A small bit of foil 3 or 4 nails and a hexamine tablet make a reasonable emergency cooker.
I have carried a backup stove for years and for a good period of time that was what it consisted of, so nails in your pack aren't quite so unlikely in some cases. If for any reason I had to use the nails then there are plenty of other things that could be used as pan supports, probably not as small and light, but there are always alternatives.
Often looked at the Skookum and wondered how it would perform, I'm not likely to put it through its paces as thoroughly as you have but it's good to know what can be done with it - and what shouldn't be ;)
Thanks for the review - one to add to the wishlist - definitely.
Can we get this added to the Reviews section of the site - so it's not lost in the clutter?
Excellent idea as a backup cooker Leon...thanks for the tip ;)
Buckshot
15-01-2008, 13:18
I agree. It begs the question....how many people go off into the woods with 6" nails in their rucksack?
Actually Stuart, when we were in the jungle where those pictures were taken, for the first part we had the services of a local Iban tribesman and he packed loads of nails (probably 20 or 30) in his feed sack he used as a rucksack. I think they were more like 2 or 3 inches long though.
It does happen, perhaps more often than you'd think and not just from the likes of us.
Great Review. The Skookum Bush Tool is my favorite knife.
Ron
Crushing some nuts or seeds, maybe; tenderising a root or something, well, okay. But nails? Nah! Supposing your aim isn't true on the pommel, through tiredness or whatever reason. What is going to hit the nail head?
If you want to hammer nails, use a hammer. Or, possibly, the back of a suitable axe. My tuppence worth.
Burnt Ash
Hi mate, from what I thought the butt plate on the back of the handle was to protect the rear of the knife when driving the blade into a tree or log when using a baton on the back plate itself.
The problem will always be that people will use things for things they weren't designed for, this isn't always a bad thing, but sometimes could be risky.
I would be highly wary of using an axe of any form for driving nails into things.
Personally, I have to say that I regard hammering nails in with the pommel as 'knife abuse' and potentially dangerous. But then I wouldn't attempt to batten with the heel of my hand, either.
I abuse it so that you don’t have too :D, you can be confident that someone has abused it on your behalf, and found it to performed flawlessly beyond that which you are ever likely to personally require.
Also bear in mind that his is designed to be a survival knife, with slightly different design requirements to a Bushcraft knife, I would not personally recommend that someone go to the expense of this knife for basic bushcraft and neither does Mors a Mora or Finnish Puukko is all you really need for bushcraft practice as an outdoor recreation.
This however is a survival knife, as defined by a man who uses his knife to put in small nails (not normally 3" nails, that was just me) when his axe is not available and routinely batons his knife with the heel of his hand, but then Mors has hands like leather fencing gloves.
Many people might consider the following 'Knife abuse'
As a test of strength, a good knife should not break when driven four centimetres into a standing tree at right-angles to the grain, and the handle bears your weight as you stand on it.
But Mors feels it is a requirement for a survival knife, as I understand does the Swedish military, it’s statutory for their survival knives.
What might be considered ‘knife abuse’ in a bushcraft setting might be an absolute requirement in a situation where your life is at risk. If for example you are stranded in an boreal forest in winter without the benefit of an axe, you will need to be able to drive your knife point first into a tree with a baton repeatedly around its circumference to fell trees that will be required as fuel to keep you alive during the night.
I agree. It begs the question....how many people go off into the woods with 6" nails in their rucksack?
6" Nails:confused: where did you read 6" nails Falcon? Do the nails in the picture look 6" long to you? The largest nail I used was less than half that size. As for who carries nails, well me obviously, when I am building a permanent base camp in the jungle that I want to be still standing when I return in a year (cordage wont last that long). And people like Mors Kochaski, Lars falt, horace kephart and Ray mears who have all been known to carry a few small nails and reuse them again and again.
Actually Stuart, when we were in the jungle where those pictures were taken, for the first part we had the services of a local Iban tribesman and he packed loads of nails (probably 20 or 30) in his feed sack he used as a rucksack. I think they were more like 2 or 3 inches long though.
It does happen, perhaps more often than you'd think and not just from the likes of us.
Ah well, we live and learn ;) ....6"....best get my eyes tested :lmao:
".....And people like Mors Kochaski, Lars falt, horace kephart and Ray mears who have all been known to carry a few small nails and reuse them again and again......"
Must have missed that somewhere down the line...:D
Going back to the knife (great review btw)
If you added a slight convex curve along the spine and dropped the point a touch, then added a mini-guard, took that pommel off and squinted, what would you get?
It goes to show that either great minds think alike, or the perfect bush tool is just about the simplest visualisation of a knife you could imagine. It's a design that has probably been around for 100s of years in one form or other.
It is, however, only fair and about time that Mors took his chance to cash in on his prodigious experience and a signature knife seems to be a good way to go about it - just look at Bear Grylls!
It looks like a great knife, but as with any elegantly simple design that is executed by a skilled maker, isn't it just bound to be good to use? Has anyone ever held a simple-designed, well made knife that WASN'T good to use.
Good users just happen to range in price from £8 to £400 depending on the 'non-tangible' factors, and the mystique they generate.;)
It is, however, only fair and about time that Mors took his chance to cash in on his prodigious experience and a signature knife seems to be a good way to go about it - just look at Bear Grylls!
I dont think Mors makes any money from the sale of Rods 'skoomum Bush tools', so it seems more than a little unfair to suggest that he is cashing in on his name.
Shame. I actually didn't mean it as a criticism, so didn't think of it as unfair. He deserves to make a bit of dosh from a good knife design (if he wants it) more than the likes of Bear IMHO.
It's actually quite reassuring to imagine that he doesn't want to cash in (more than a living wage) on his credentials the way others might.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb67/Gwhtbushcraft/New%20knife/bcuk/morsknife.jpg
Here is a picture of the knife anotated by Mors if anyone is interested.
George:)
George,
How did you happen upon the SBT with Mors notes image? That is a very interesting artifact. I doubt I could carve out the netting shuttle in 3-4 minutes though....it would likely take me a few more minutes.
Stuart, nice review from a very different environment. Rod really did an excellent job translating Mors ideas into a knife. With the current exchange rate an SBT is a tremendous bargain.
Stuart,
When there is a wrist thong through the first hole, is the knife tip up or tip down?
Falcon,
Nails are actually kinder to the environment as well as being more secure and long lasting. Eventually they will rust away. The wood used is the determining factor in how long the structure lasts. Even in the jungle some will last for several years.
If you use synthetic cordage it will end up being an environmental eyesore.
Rattan and some vines may last a long time too but do you really want to destroy a 50 -100 metre long plant that has taken years to grow and which is a valuable resource for indigenous people?
Nails are actually kinder to the environment as well as being more secure and long lasting. Eventually they will rust away. The wood used is the determining factor in how long the structure lasts. Even in the jungle some will last for several years.
If you use synthetic cordage it will end up being an environmental eyesore.
Rattan and some vines may last a long time too but do you really want to destroy a 50 -100 metre long plant that has taken years to grow and which is a valuable resource for indigenous people?
I agree about synthetic cordage but I'm surprised about the attitude to nails.....as I said earlier, we live and learn about attitudes and practices amongst other cultures :)
Burnt Ash
16-01-2008, 10:02
I would be highly wary of using an axe of any form for driving nails into things.
Really, Leon? I'm sure I would be careful using the poll of an axe to knock in a few nails, but I'd weigh the possible risk and take into account that the tool wasn't really designed for the task I was putting it to. But how about something like the Estwing Universal Hatchet? That has a purpose designed hammer poll. It's probably not as balanced as a proper hammer for hammering in nails, but it would get the job done and it's got to be better than a knife pommel.
Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with versatility. But crucial to the whole business of kit selection for survival/bushcraft/wilderness living, etc. is knowing where the sensible limits of a particular piece of equipment lie. That way, you end up with knives that function decently as knives and not with unwieldy and costly monstrosities like the WS Dartmoor knife that try too hard and don't do anything particularly well.
The SBT I've seen and handled (but not used) looks a really nice knife. I'd love to own one, but I can promise you that, if I did, I'd never use it for hammering in nails
Burnt Ash
Really, Leon? I'm sure I would be careful using the poll of an axe to knock in a few nails, but I'd weigh the possible risk and take into account that the tool wasn't really designed for the task I was putting it to. But how about something like the Estwing Universal Hatchet? That has a purpose designed hammer poll. It's probably not as balanced as a proper hammer for hammering in nails, but it would get the job done and it's got to be better than a knife pommel.
It's just a personal preference mate, I like the estwing and have cleaned up one that has been used for hammering things in, it was a swine to sort out and as a result I wouldn't want to do it to any tool I owned. I do also recall being told not to strike an axe with anything metal and as a result wouldn't want to strike anything metal with an axe.
Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with versatility. But crucial to the whole business of kit selection for survival/bushcraft/wilderness living, etc. is knowing where the sensible limits of a particular piece of equipment lie. That way, you end up with knives that function decently as knives and not with unwieldy and costly monstrosities like the WS Dartmoor knife that try too hard and don't do anything particularly well.
The SBT I've seen and handled (but not used) looks a really nice knife. I'd love to own one, but I can promise you that, if I did, I'd never use it for hammering in nails
Burnt Ash
I agree with you mate, versatility is a big thing and required of many tools, but in my case trying to drive in nails with the poll of my axe would be hazardous. My axe is the GB hunters with the flay poll, it's rounded and quite highly polished.
As you say it's knowing the limits of the tool in use. My opinion may differ once I get a chance to play with the Norlund axe, but I have never really liked the idea of pulling back a sharp edge in the direction of my head whether it has a mask on or not. It's the same as the knife butt being used as a hammer, a distraction or not paying full attention or even being tired could have nasty results.
In the end it's also knowing your own limits as well as those of the tool in use I suppose.
I'm surprised about the attitude to nails.....
My personal approach to the ethical use of nails is that:
• It is perfectly acceptable to use them in the construction of a permanent base camp that is intended to be in use for many years.
• a collection of small nails may be carried for used in temporary structures if nothing else will do or is available, or in the construction of equipment such as pack frames, bucksaws or Roycroft snow shoes beneath the lashings, if they are to be used continually in arduous conditions which are likely to work loose almost any type of lashing if the join beneath has not been pinned to prevent movement. They are especially useful in deep winter boreal conditions where natural cordage is in short supply
• Where nails are used it should be in moderation and they should be removed and packed out when the construction (shelter or tool) is dismantled and dispersed.
• Nails should be reused as many times as possible, remember that they can always be hammered flat and resharpened.
• Nails should never be driven into living trees, nor should they ever be left sticking out like a clothes peg!
• a few small nails when used as outlined become just another tool in your possibles pouch, in the same manner as your roll of paracord, you wouldn’t create an eyesore leaving paracord tied to things in the forest and you shouldn’t do it with nails either.
Burnt Ash
16-01-2008, 13:51
It's just a personal preference mate, I like the estwing and have cleaned up one that has been used for hammering things in, it was a swine to sort out and as a result I wouldn't want to do it to any tool I owned. I do also recall being told not to strike an axe with anything metal and as a result wouldn't want to strike anything metal with an axe.
I agree with you mate, versatility is a big thing and required of many tools, but in my case trying to drive in nails with the poll of my axe would be hazardous. My axe is the GB hunters with the flay poll, it's rounded and quite highly polished.
As you say it's knowing the limits of the tool in use. My opinion may differ once I get a chance to play with the Norlund axe, but I have never really liked the idea of pulling back a sharp edge in the direction of my head whether it has a mask on or not. It's the same as the knife butt being used as a hammer, a distraction or not paying full attention or even being tired could have nasty results.
In the end it's also knowing your own limits as well as those of the tool in use I suppose.
Well, if Estwing designed the E2H carpenter's hatchet for hammering, I'm presuming that the company (well regarded for its specialist hammers) considers it okay to hammer with it. N'est ce pas?
One of the reasons I rejected the GB hunter's axe (as pretty as they are) for my own use is that I don't need one for skinning (my knuckles seem to work okay) and that rounded polished flaying poll would be less useful to me than a flat one that could be used as a hammer, at a pinch (and with care).
I completely concur with your comment about knowing the limits of both your own skills and a particular tool's capabilities.
Burnt Ash
In the early days of America people would burn down their home before moving on just to recover all of the nails from the ashes.
The pommel of that knife could also be used for cracking nuts,tapping in wooden pegs or cracking open an animals skull to gain access to its brain for hide tanning.Good idea if you ask me.
I would hammer nails in with the poll of my SFA no problem. The question that would decide whether I said no though would e how big are the nails? If they are tacks or small thin nails then you aren't gonna damage the poll. I'd certainly want a round flat head on the nail, none of those wire nails. If you want to hit a six inch nail with your poll, two handed and with a great big swing then you are bound to do damage. Tapping a tack in is not gonna damage the poll.
I drive wooden pegs into the ground with my SFA and the eye hasn't deformed at all. I don't belt them in, but many small taps work just as well as one great big wallop.
the but of the bush tool is made of steel as when mors wants to chop down a tree, he hammers the blade into the tree using a baton striking the butt of the handle. driving the knife in point first then wiggling sideways, then move the blade over and repeat until you have cut all the way around the trunk.
alex
I guess if your going on an expedition somewhere these things would be good to know, but uk bushcrafting where you can never be more than 70 miles from the coast let alone a tesco then its not something thats going to be used.
After reading several reviews I have ordered a Skookum bush tool for 210 dollar including shipping. With the current dollar-euro rate that is a good deal. The back order time is now 9 to 10 months so I have to be patience... Now lets hope the dollar drops even more.
As Requested, pictures of the skookum after it returned from 2 months in Borneo, sorry for the delay in getting these up.
It hasnt been cleaned up at all, other than sharpening.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/PICT3863.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/PICT3864.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v174/diabolik/PICT3868.jpg
Was seriously thinking of purchasing one of these after I checked the exchange rate. Unfortunately there seems to be a six month waiting list, as of Sept 07, so could be longer now.
Stuart was the knife delivered sharpened?
I may contact them to check on the current waiting list and also to see if theres any chance of them making it with wooden scales for me.
BTW nice review!
Stuart was the knife delivered sharpened?
yes, Razor sharp
[QUOTE=Zammo;385190]
Stuart was the knife delivered sharpened?
[QUOTE]
yes, Razor sharp
I'd add that they keep their edge extremely well, too! I've got one in 01 and recently received one in S30V - they are both superb! The waiting list is more like nine - ten months at the moment but, with the dollar exchange rate so good at the moment, it really is worth the wait.
Celt_Ginger
15-03-2008, 21:14
Well thanks a bunch Guys. This is the first time I've seen this knife and I think it looks fantastic and (according to the review) performs just as well. I've just placed an order for one. Now the long wait. Hopefully I'll get it for Christmas.
There are some variants out there as well. This one is lacks the butt cap and is made from 3/32" S30 V
http://faculty.gvsu.edu/triert/images21/sbt_sansbutt1b.jpg
http://faculty.gvsu.edu/triert/images21/sbt_sansbutt2b.jpg
Thats real nice, what wood are the scales?
Thats real nice, what wood are the scales?
Stabilized ash burl. IIRC, it was black ash.
Ahhhemmmmm
http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/1669/morahm1.jpg
Is that a frosts clipper I see before me??:D No Skookums here LOL:eek:
Is that a frosts clipper I see before me??:D No Skookums here LOL:eek:
Thats probably because the Skookum didnt exist in 2006.
But that said, Mors still teaches with the Mora now, since it’s what his students are using.
Otherwise it might lead to the student believing that the instructor can do what he himself cannot, not because he is more practiced in knife control, but because he has a better knife. This leads students to trying to substitute skill and experience with an expensive knife.
If the instructor accomplishes amazing tasks with the same £5 knife the student has in his hand, there can be no question that knife skills are the fundamental aspect, not the knife itself.
Thats probably because the Skookum didnt exist in 2006.
But that said, Mors still teaches with the Mora now, since it’s what his students are using.
Otherwise it might lead to the student believing that the instructor can do what he himself cannot, not because he is more practiced in knife control, but because he has a better knife. This leads students to trying to substitute skill and experience with an expensive knife.
If the instructor accomplishes amazing tasks with the same £5 knife the student has in his hand, there can be no question that knife skills are the fundamental aspect, not the knife itself.
I quite agree Stuart... I'm only pulling yer chain......It's my job !! I can't let you have it too easy on here, what would the others think?? I have my reputation to think of y'know !!
Back to the thread however, I think the Skookum looks a great tool for the job. Definately not a drawer queen, it has "user" written all over it !!:cool:
bushtuckerman
22-10-2008, 09:22
That knife does look close to perfect, I would just have some wooden scales for posterity. It will annoy some to mention it here I'm sure, but the Skookum makes the 16 year old Woodlore knife all the more impressive, when you consider Mors and not Ray the 'Father' of bushcraft. It begs the question, why didn't he..sorry, He produce such a knife when he needed one? Strikes me as slightly daft when he had the design down since '87. I have respect for him, obviously, hence the bafflement.
edit: but don't get me wrong, this knife looks superior in at least one aspect, that it has a butt plate gives it the edge over the woodlore in my opinion, (although there are far better hammers than this one found in the bush) and I would use it for lengthways batoning with some woods. I think if your knife is more likely to be on your person than an axe in an emergency, then being able to baton securely is very reassuring.
Mistwalker
23-10-2008, 16:30
Great review, great post. Love the camp and the knife..., I'll have to look into getting one of these thank you!
Bogman10
22-11-2008, 21:00
I have one and love it ( cmp3v ), so far it's only done Camp chores and minor carving. However , It did a great job on the 4x3 White tail deer I shot last week. ( yyyyuuuuummmmm Deer Sausage and Pepperoni and Steaks! )
:) :AR15firin
Bogman10
22-11-2008, 21:04
Was seriously thinking of purchasing one of these after I checked the exchange rate. Unfortunately there seems to be a six month waiting list, as of Sept 07, so could be longer now.
Stuart was the knife delivered sharpened?
I may contact them to check on the current waiting list and also to see if theres any chance of them making it with wooden scales for me.
BTW nice review!
I waited 14 months for mine, Rod has gotten so busy, I don't think he is taking any more orders till he catches up a bit! :dunno: but the wait is sooooo worth it.
ridge rover
23-11-2008, 01:07
I ordered mine November last year, still waiting!
And me! However, I contacted Rod and he says he's still working hard and expects my order to be ready in Jan/Feb 09 - I ordered about last November too.
helixpteron
27-11-2008, 04:11
Thank you to Stuart for the review and to the other members whom have posted their comments on this knife.
Since the loss by theft of my original fixed blade camp knife, I've been after a good quality knife and this model simply seems so naturally 'right'.
So, thank you, BCUK members for helping me to make a far more informed decision on the most important tool I'll pack!
Well I am still testing mine out, it has been used for dealing with a deer and a number of camp chores, it seems quite a capable tool.
Dougster
27-11-2008, 14:35
Well I am still testing mine out, it has been used for dealing with a deer and a number of camp chores, it seems quite a capable tool.
But yours is a special magic one.....
Dougster,
You still on for making me a sheath when my knife arrives? I'll let you know when it gets here - hopefully, early next year!
Dougster
28-11-2008, 17:03
Didn't know I was down for it, but certainly.
Catch me quick, I'm off soon......:D
But yours is a special magic one.....
It is indeed, it doesn't so much cut things as they part of their own accord in respect of it.:)
I get the feeling he would be happier to know that it's being used and not locked up as a drawer queen. The same with the Norlund axe.:)
It is indeed, it doesn't so much cut things as they part of their own accord in respect of it.:)
I get the feeling he would be happier to know that it's being used and not locked up as a drawer queen. The same with the Norlund axe.:)
Come on, spill the beans! :confused: :)
Come on, spill the beans! :confused: :)
Mine was a gift from a friend, it is one of the original prototypes. The same guy gave me an axe head a few years ago, and now it has to be one of my favourite axes (I have a few). The axe is a little Norlund axe, I have made a new handle for it and fitted a new mask. Think of a small Hudson Bay Axe like the Snow & Nealley.
Dougster
30-11-2008, 16:45
As he didn't have one that afternoon, he borrowed Stuarts, there were some nails needed knocking in, and I swear Stuart was the model for this :rolleyes: at that point.
Mors was amused, even if Stuart wasn't.:)
Very nice! Thanks for sharing :)
Can't remember if I ever mentioned that mine eventually arrived (last August!). Well-worth the wait though, and Dougster did make me that awesome double-dangler sheath I wanted.
I'm a happy customer. This knife was made to be used and abused and it is as robust as they come.
I'd rate it, in terms of performance and build quality, up there with Fjallraven, Kifaru and Gransfors. Well-chuffed.
Mine will be here in 1 baby time.
What steel did you choose Mike? Mine is in O1, but might want to swap for S30V ...
Now you're asking! I think it was O1. I wanted something that would be relatively easy to sharpen using my limited skills and that would cast masses of sparks from a firesteel. I've heard that the A2 - although not as good as O1 with firesteels - is still able to generate reasonable sparks. S30V does not really give you a good spark at all, from what I've been told.
I actually wrote to Rod recently to say 'thanks' - I think good workmanship deserves credit and feedback.
I have to say, I don't like the sheath you get with knife as it's a bit too 'native', if that makes sense? I got Dougster to make me a really nice 'double dangler' and separate firesteel/stone holder and those have been excellent in use. I'll find the post that I did - I remember now that I did post something!
Here it is: http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43287&highlight=
Ahjno, they are definite 'users' - they get very upset if they live in a drawer all year and I've really enjoyed using mine - though not as much as I'd like to.
Great practical tools. I don't think you'll regret ordering and waiting.
Now you're asking! I think it was O1. I wanted something that would be relatively easy to sharpen using my limited skills and that would cast masses of sparks from a firesteel. I've heard that the A2 - although not as good as O1 with firesteels - is still able to generate reasonable sparks. S30V does not really give you a good spark at all, from what I've been told.
All of the steels will generate sparks off a firesteel (or ferrocerium rod).
Of the three only O1 will generate good sparks when struck against flint.
Mikey
Ive a Skookum on order which I guess I might get next March? Can I ask if you had any postage problems and how much postage was etc. Ive read about a few nightmares on here when getting kit from the States and wondered if you had any problems? Ta Ed
No problems at all. Just got a bill from Parcel Force for the import tax, Parcel Force Handling Fee, etc. Went down the depot, paid, picked it up. No worries.
Mistwalker
21-08-2010, 02:11
I really love the blade shape and pommel of the SBT very much, it looks like it would be an awesome tool to have in the bush...but the absence of a swell or slight guard where the blade meets the handle just bothers me.
I really love the blade shape and pommel of the SBT very much, it looks like it would be an awesome tool to have in the bush...but the absence of a swell or slight guard where the blade meets the handle just bothers me.
That's because at the back of your mind Brian there is the feeling that one day you may have to stab someone or something with it. :-o
Mistwalker
21-08-2010, 04:54
That's because at the back of your mind Brian there is the feeling that one day you may have to stab someone or something with it. :-o
Ya know Ash, at one time I would have to wholeheartedly agree with that statement...I did have a rough young life. But now it's more a concern of doing boring or gouging with cold hands or while fatigued... I think. Could possibly be a hold-over though I suppose. I am getting away from full guards lately but I still like swells and first-finger grooves.