View Full Version : I fancy making a box/bench - maybe this Norse design
thingswelike
12-09-2007, 16:12
Hi all
I've been thinking about appropriate things to put in my Tipi and have already identified the watchman's chair as being a likely project.
However I am also trying to think of a hybrid box/bench seat which isn't too heavy to lift out of the car into the tent.
On googling for 'Norse box' , I came across a tool chest from the Mastermyr find, which took my fancy.
Original find here:
http://www.greydragon.org/trips/stockholm/mastermyr099.jpg
Some reproductions:
http://www.warehamforge.ca/box00a.jpg
http://www.isarviking.de/Ausruestung/Kiste/chest3.jpg
There's also handily enough some plans:
http://www.angelfire.com/wy/svenskildbiter/Viking/vikchest.html
I was thinking about putting some handles on each side and making it wide enough for 2 people to sit on, but what are your thoughts?
One question mark is the timber to use - I want it fairly light, but somehow pine doesn't sit right with me - any other ideas?
Also, if I get some hinges forged, how much should I expect to pay? I've never bought anything like that before.
Cheers
Alex
thingswelike
12-09-2007, 16:19
Just found another nice replica here - in sycamore:
http://codesmiths.com/shed/things/boxes/norse/
You should contact Wayland, I've seen the box he has brought to meets before...
I'm sure hes got pics
I've been thinking about similar boxes for use in my Tentipi, rather than going for a replica of an old design, I was thinking of making two wooden boxes for storage and seating that will be as light as possible but still strong. The dimensions will be determined so that I can get them both in the boot of a family estate car, with room to spare for other gear. One will be for foodstuffs and the other will be for the camp kitchen.
I haven't decided on materials yet, but was thinking of using 9mm ply - not very bushcraft I know :o . Having now seen your ideas I think it is back to the drawing board :rolleyes: , as those replicas look so much nicer than what I was planning !!
Cheers,
Doug.
thingswelike
12-09-2007, 17:32
I keep tooing and froing between just getting something done and making something nice.
I would have just managed with plastic storage boxes by now if they had strong enough lids for sitting on (I haven't found any yet).
I'm guessing that Wayland will be around soon :)
Likewise ! we have been using Curver plastic boxes, but as you have said none of them have lids strong enough to sit on :lmao:
Doug.
I like the box design, Pine is possibly the lightest wood you could use, you could always stain it to suit. Other than Pine you could look at Ash or even Oak, they could prove to be heavy woods but would give you great grain. These woods would be more acessable from timber merchants than more exoyic woods. Yew would be a fantastic wood to use but would need to be sourced and could prove expensive. you could also look at Beech or even Birch.
Simon.
I have made one of the tool chest some long while ago, actually using the plans you found. I'll fish it out of the garage and take some pics. I had used mahogany:o , not very accurate reproduction, I'm affraid. I have used it to store tools!
thingswelike
12-09-2007, 18:44
Thanks jojo - that would be great to see.
sallyinwales
12-09-2007, 18:51
These are great boxes, I'veseen literally hundreds over the years at re-enactments and they really do work well both as seats and storage. Why not make one without too much fuss from pine, use it as a learning curve, then make your next one out of something a bit nicer.
In my opinion, you can never have too many boxes, especially pretty ones that look better the more aged and battered they get :)
I use rope for the handles on mine, seems to work well enough.
The "legs" at each end are good because it raises the box base off any damp surface like a longship deck, earthen floor or general mud.
There is a blacksmith (Dave Barnes) at Murton Park who makes most of the bits for Danelaw Viking Village (http://www.loreandsaga.co.uk/html/danelaw_viking_village.html). He does good hinge sets that are reasonably priced from memory.
I can't find his number but Murton Park should have it ( They are on 01904 489966 )
( I should state at this point that although I do have a connection to Murton Park, I do not have any connection except as a satisfied customer to Dave Barnes. )
My big box is made of oak and is a monster to shift when it's full.
Most of my boxes have a lift off lid which is quite good because you can put stuff on top and still get into the box if you need to and are careful.
mr dazzler
12-09-2007, 20:20
check these out
http://www.duanepasco.com/port.boxes1.html
theres some similar stuff in the fine woodworking "bending wod" compendium
thingswelike
13-09-2007, 08:57
Thanks everyone for your input. I definitely don't want it to be heavy. I'm already panicking about the weight of the Fourdog woodburning stove. I have 36 steps from my house to my car, and I only weight 8.5 stone :)
I suppose a lift-off lid will eradicate the need for forged hinges, although I'll need to rebate the lid instead.
I'll have a wander down to the reclamation yards here in Macc and see what timbers they have.
Cheers
Alex
I made mine the right size to fit on a sack truck which use to take it in and out of schools.
Over rough ground I put a pole through the ropes and transport it with a person on each end of the pole.
thingswelike
13-09-2007, 09:20
I see - so the ropes are long enough to reach above the lid. I hadn't thought of that.
So now, you need another person on the other end. Who could that be, who is used to carrying weight around on her back all day?!
thingswelike
13-09-2007, 09:41
:)
Sara's always been stronger than me anyway - I'm perfectly comfortable with my light frame (although buying lightweight mountainbikes/camping gear/etc is always really expensive)
thingswelike
13-09-2007, 11:01
For anyone looking at plastic storage boxes, I've just found these.
Rugged, stackable, standonable, sitonable, etc
http://www.trekoverland.com/images/products/wolf_box_large.jpg
http://www.trekoverland.com/accessories.htm
John Fenna
13-09-2007, 13:24
Not as pretty as Weyland's!
Wayland,
Could we see pics of your Viking Boxes? I am thinking this will be a great project for me too. I like the look of those above and they seem to be right practical as a tool box goes.
Could you use yours as a work bench as well? I think that would be very handy.
Mine are used as seats, storage, tables, workbenches, toolboxes and secure lock ups when on site.
There are some in these pictures:
http://www.loreandsaga.co.uk/assets/images/Viking_Boneworker.jpg http://www.loreandsaga.co.uk/assets/images/borgwork.jpg
http://www.loreandsaga.co.uk/assets/images/bronze.JPG http://www.loreandsaga.co.uk/assets/images/Grubenhouse.jpg
but I don't have a straight picture of any of them at the moment and it's a major job to get them all out for a shoot.
The one with the vise? Is the vise built into the box or a separate piece set on top of the box?
I notice all these are flat on top, is that for working surface? Why do you think the antique was rounded?
I think I want one flat on top with a loose lid hollowed inside to be turned over and used as a tray to hold small tools and project parts. I have to think about the vise, I like that but may want to make it removable with storage underneath or on the back.
Thanks greatly for your input and photos.
As stated earlier many of my boxes have removable lids. This meant that by making a new lid with the vice built in, that box then becomes a work bench.
I've often wondered about the curved lids, as a useful surface it is better if they are flat, so there must have been a reason for it.
On a ship or outdoors it would shed water better, which might be the reason.
My first thought was that it was because the timber is split rather than sawn. If you have a wedge shaped piece and shave off on the thick edge, you end up with a curved shape perhaps.
Some pics of the box I had made. I never quite finished it,no hinges or handles. If I remember well, I could not find hinges that I liked at the time. If i was to do this again, I would use more appropriate wood than Mahogany. I would also make a flat top, because I cannot see any reason/use for a rounded top, except what Wayland suggested. A flat top would be much more useful.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k270/mollygypsy/DSCN0080.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k270/mollygypsy/DSCN0078.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k270/mollygypsy/DSCN0077.jpg
The arrows in there are 30" long.
Ice Tigre
13-09-2007, 19:42
Funny that I hadn't thought of this; seems such an obviously good idea. Not the kind of thing I would take to the woods with me. But I like the idea for keeping my carving tools in it; And can take it out to the yard to work.
I've had an idea, for holding blocks for carving etc. a flip-able lid with peg holes on one side, for pegs to hold things in place.(pin vise I believe they're called).
Oooohhh! I could modify it a bit to practice my cutting and dove tail the joints... Sorry, thinking out loud. :)
G.
Eric_Methven
14-09-2007, 00:04
The advantages of having a curved top are more than just the shedding of water. It can be more comfortable to sit on (no sharp edges), but most useful is the fact that you can't pile stuff up on top of it, then have to move everything off when you want to get inside. I have a number of flat top boxes and they all get stuff piled on top so invariably I am spending a lot of time just moving piles of stuff off one box onto another just to get one item out.
Eric
That's the advantage of a lift off lid. You don't have to take everything off the lid, you just lift it off straight and put it down with everything still on it.
As stated earlier many of my boxes have removable lids. This meant that by making a new lid with the vice built in, that box then becomes a work bench.
I've often wondered about the curved lids, as a useful surface it is better if they are flat, so there must have been a reason for it.
On a ship or outdoors it would shed water better, which might be the reason.
My first thought was that it was because the timber is split rather than sawn. If you have a wedge shaped piece and shave off on the thick edge, you end up with a curved shape perhaps.Curved lids lash down more easily, travelling chests have curved lids, chests used in static locations have flat lid.
The advantages of a curved lid mean any lashing, used to keep the chest still for example on a boat or carriage does not have a sharp edge to fray against. In addition, a coopered lid is more or less watertight, where as flat wood nearly always warps and twists guaranteeing to let in water to some degree.
That makes some sense. My boxes are loaded into the back of the van so they have to stack easily.
I can see the ropes argument if they are being lashed down singly.
thingswelike
14-09-2007, 10:28
From an aesthetic point of view I prefer the slightly rounded design - not a radius, but a flatish top with eased corners.
Stacking wont be important to me (as I'll only have 2 and plenty of other things can be put on top).
I think this will be more inviting to sit on too.