View Full Version : Bushcraft Kit...
TheViking
13-07-2004, 13:51
Hi...
I will now post a thread on my bushcraft kit (not survival!), based upon a lot of different kits I've made the past few years. :wink:
My kit was just finished today and i'm satisfied. It's a temperate/woodland kit and is meant to be used in this. Variations can come up and it is possible that you would switch some of the items out with something else. It may seem like alot, but for an example I wouldn't go out without a first aid kit! :wink:
The script in the brackets (had to look it up, so hope you get the meaning :lol: ) will be MY version of the item OR detailed info. The clothes I wear is not included.
The kit:
Bag or rucksack
Knife (leuku and "Grandy")
SAK (Outrider)
Matches (waterproof)
Billy can (swedish army mess tin; without the burner and windbreaker)
Sleeping bag (Haglöfs Trail)
Tarp (military poncho; dark green)
1. Aid kit (homemade; not very big as I see lifesaving 1. aid is much more important)
Flashlight (maglite solitaire)
Canteen (sometimes with mug)
Spoon (metal)
Cordage (string; twine)
Firesteel
Steelwire (repair, snares, shelterbuilding etc.)
Extra socks (thick; mine is hunting socks)
Darning needle and sewing needle + bear thread (polyester)
Well, that's pretty much it. 8-) Anything you think I should add/remove or modify? I will use this kit to live in the wild and not to survive! :-D (Though it could be used for this too).
I'd swap the maglite for a cheap LED light as the batteries last much longer. Id also want somethin that can hold 3-4l of water and some purification tablets
TheViking
13-07-2004, 14:23
I usually tape an extra battery to the side of the solitaire and I don't use light that much. :-) The way I would purify my water is to boil it in the pot. Most purification tablets I know, makes the water taste as iodine.
Cheers :wave:
Good point their The Viking, most puri-tab are also damaging in the long term either being cancer causing or some such - you have to remember that the things puri-tabs kill are living creatures and funnily enough so are we, so if it kills them it cant be doing you the world of good either!
Filter and boil its safe and easy.
Nice. Tell me more about this homemade firestick. And what do you have in your FAK? I need to upgrade and I was wondering what you would carry whilst out in Denmark as opposed to me in England.
TheViking
13-07-2004, 19:34
Hi...
I took an ironsaw and saw the striker of my magnesiumblock. Took a hammer and worked a little on the strikerpiece. The striker came loose.
Cut 2'' of 11 mm. pole (or so) and perforated a 1'' hole in the wood. A little superglue in the hole, stick in and fire going with a few strikes. :-D (When I can persuade my dad to buy me a digital camera, i'll take a picture)
My FAK is actually very simple and not very high tech. Believe if you know how to administer artificial respiration, prevent and treat chock and know how to stop arterie bleedings, you can tackle a bunch of situations. Lifesaving FA is the most important. Pain hurts, but doesn't kill. :wink:
FAK: Plasters, absorbent cotton wool + bandage, sportstape, butterfly sutures, (I know a guy who took the 3 last stings, without anaesthesia because it didn't last any longer), antiseptic iodine wipes and a piece of unparfumed soap. :wink: Well, that's about it I think.
Filter and boil its safe and easy.Yes - and unlike Puri-tabs - will get rid of cryptosporidium & giardia (both nasty and ubiquitous protozoans that aren't killed by chlorine).
On the point of water and puri-tabs, I have recently been informed that Millets are going to stop stocking them, they will only be stocking the iodine tablets.
The nasty taste that you get from them, you can get rid of it by adding either a couple of drops of lime or strong citrus fruit to the water. You can also get a detaste tablet (Lifesystems).
Neither iodine or the puri-tab type tablets are a long term solution to water purification as both build up in your system and you will still require to filter it.
As others have stated boiling water is probably the oldest of ways and cheapest, that is proven. As with anything else though there are rules for how long water should be boiled for and how long it is to be considered pure after it has been boiled.
NickBristol
14-07-2004, 11:08
Aqua-Mira (also known as Pristine in the US and Canada) is a better alternative to both iodine and chlorine. It's a chlorine dioxide system as used (as part of) European water treatment for the last 60odd years, I took it to Egypt a few weeks back and didn't have any problems. It kills cryptosproridium as well as all the usual nasties that iodine and chlorine do, plus it doesn't leave an after-taste. It costs £12 from Cotswold Outdoor and treats 200-odd litres of water. It doesn't do anything about particulates obviously...
Chroline dioxide is a powerful oxidizing agent that will deal effectively with cryptosporid nasties.
However, it is worth remembering that if you dip your drinking bottle into a contaminated source and treat the water inside it that any water on the outside on on the screw threads won't be safe unless properly exposed to the treatment you use. This seems obvious but I've seen people overlook this in the past.
This is why I still like my Katadyn mini as it deals with all this easily.
TheViking
26-07-2004, 15:21
Hi...
As with anything else though there are rules for how long water should be boiled for and how long it is to be considered pure after it has been boiled.
Yes. When I boil water for purifying, I boil it between 5-20 minutes. It depends on where you find it! :wink: In a spring: 5 minutes. :biggthump In a swamp: 20 minutes. In a lake in Sweden: 15 minutes. This would be the times I use. But again: it depends on a lot. (altitude, location etc.)
Hi...
Yes. When I boil water for purifying, I boil it between 5-20 minutes. It depends on where you find it! :wink: In a spring: 5 minutes. :biggthump In a swamp: 20 minutes. In a lake in Sweden: 15 minutes. This would be the times I use. But again: it depends on a lot. (altitude, location etc.)
You will only make the water boil, it does not matter if it boils 1 or 10 minutes. Think big bubbles no troubles.
TheViking
26-07-2004, 18:41
Hi...
In the Swedish Army's survival manual it says, that to clean water from bacteria and organisms you need to boil the water in 20 minutes.
(This is by the way recommended by a lot of spec.ops. around the world) :biggthump
Hi...
In the Swedish Army's survival manual it says, that to clean water from bacteria and organisms you need to boil the water in 20 minutes.
(This is by the way recommended by a lot of spec.ops. around the world) :biggthump
The Swedish Army's survival manual was printed in 1988 and research in this area has come a long way since then. Nowadays the army say 5 minutes just because that they should be sure the soldiers really let it boil.
Altitude however makes a lot of difference... we were boiling eggs for breakfast at about 7500 meters above sea, and they were still runny after 20 minutes of boiling. Though boiling, the water was probably only 80 odd degrese.
TheViking
26-07-2004, 19:47
The Swedish Army's survival manual was printed in 1988 and research in this area has come a long way since then. Nowadays the army say 5 minutes just because that they should be sure the soldiers really let it boil.
Oh, I see. :wink: But if you're using a fire and have plenty of time, it doesn't harm anyone to boil it a long time. If you're using a stove, i'll stick to 5 min. too! :-) :biggthump I just asume that most of the time, bushcrafting is about being at the same place a few days, allowing you to cook over fire all the time. :biggthump
Cheers :uu:
You will only make the water boil, it does not matter if it boils 1 or 10 minutes. Think big bubbles no troubles.
This is correct. Once water has reached 100 degrees celcius, no pathogens will be left alive.
Letting it boil for 1 or 10 minutes will make no difference as all the pathogens will already be dead.
There are some organisms that, I believe, can survive boiling, but they are found near thermally active water spouts and underwater volcanic lava vents, but to the best of my knowledge, these organisms are not pathogenic to humans.
Provided you get your water up to 100 degrees celcius, there is no advantage whatsoever to keeping it there for a period of time.
20 minutes is the medical standard, that's what a pharmacist told me (a good friend of my mother). It maybe dates from her pharmacist studies, that were quite a few years ago...and if research has proven differant in the mean time, guess I'll stick with the "bring it to a boil and it's enough" saying". In Ray's book he says you should add a minute per 1000 feet of altitude, which seems logical because the boiling temperature goes down when you go up.
Strider: at 7500m it would have been much less than 80°C, more like 50 or 60. At the top of the everest it's hardly over 40°! Mind you, I live at 450m above sea, and it's already down to 96°
Variations in recommendations regarding the duration of boiling during boil water advisories have reflected uncertainty about how long some organisms can survive. On the basis of a recent literature review, CDC and EPA recommend that water be rendered microbiologically safe for drinking by bringing it to a rolling boil for 1 minute; this will inactivate all major waterborne bacterial pathogens (i.e., Vibrio cholerae, enterotoxigenic Escherichia coli, Salmonella, Shigella sonnei, Campylobacter jejuni, Yersinia enterocolitica, and Legionella pneumophila) and waterborne protozoa (e.g., Cryptosporidium parvum, Giardia lamblia, and Entamoeba histolytica [4 - 7]). Although information about thermal inactivation is incomplete for waterborne viral pathogens, hepatitis A virus - considered one of the more heat resistant waterborne viruses (8) - also is rendered noninfectious by boiling for 1 minute (9). If viral pathogens are suspected in drinking water in communities at elevations above 6562 ft (2 km), the boiling time should be extended to 3 minutes..
Source - US Enviromental Protection Agency, SUBJECT: Boiling Water Time for Killing Pathogens.
Link to PDF: http://www.epa.gov/safewater/wsg/wsg_134.pdf
BTW, I used to work as a medical microbiology lab technician before I trained as an RN. ;)
Source - US Enviromental Protection Agency, SUBJECT: Boiling Water Time for Killing Pathogens.
Link to PDF: http://www.epa.gov/safewater/wsg/wsg_134.pdf
BTW, I used to work as a medical microbiology lab technician before I trained as an RN. ;)
Thanks for that link Martyn! :biggthump
Carcajou Garou
26-07-2004, 20:07
TheViking, I think Andy is right in going to a different (power) for your light source. We have had really poor results in all types of "AAA" batteries as far as any long term endurance whether on or on standby. The small LED's have real staying power and are good for local lighting, we also carry a small light powered by 2 "C" cells that is just over 7" long and they really last and are bright (krypton bulb). We carry small radios that are powered by either "AAA" or "AA" and again we don't trust the smaller batteries.
just a thought
Thanks Martyn, that's cleared up my confusion :biggthump
Carcajou Garou : are those C cell lamps the maglight type?
TheViking
26-07-2004, 20:25
Hi...
Right now there is no money in my wallet, so I can't afford to replace right now :wink: I find the maglite good and durable. :biggthump And waterproof.
Aqua-Mira (also known as Pristine in the US and Canada) is a better alternative to both iodine and chlorine. It's a chlorine dioxide system as used (as part of) European water treatment for the last 60odd years, I took it to Egypt a few weeks back and didn't have any problems. It kills cryptosproridium as well as all the usual nasties that iodine and chlorine do, plus it doesn't leave an after-taste. It costs £12 from Cotswold Outdoor and treats 200-odd litres of water. It doesn't do anything about particulates obviously...
Nick, thanks for your comments here - I picked up an MSR miniworks filter specifically because it didn't include iodine purification. I've always planned on using aqua mira drops with it when I need a chemical stage. I haven't needed to so far but it sounds like my plan should work. I have noticed that it's worth checking the expiry date. Bottles on sale in some outlets have barely 12 months shelf life remaining.
Cheers
Carcajou Garou
26-07-2004, 22:37
Douglas, the light 2-"C" cell is a Browning Submersible and I correct my self it is just over 6" long. Mine is OD green with a black rubber bezel head, I bought it some time ago probably in the 30-45$ range depending where you access it. Might be able to access more if you need one. In my basic kit that stays with me is a folding lock knife, a hunters compass, ferro rod & striker, and a whistle
(FOX 40), disposable poncho with aluminum foil insert.
just a thought
Thanks for that info :)
What power will that size of lamp give? Will it light up 100m away? If so a 2C cell lamp could compliment my LED light quite well.
Hi...
Right now there is no money in my wallet, so I can't afford to replace right now :wink: I find the maglite good and durable. :biggthump And waterproof.
The ARC AA or AAA is a good swap for the mag solitaire. Both are about the same size, waterproof but LED powered and run for a heluva lot longer. I'd go for the AA version, as this size battery is more readily avaiolable than AAA and you can now get AA lithiums if you really want them to last an age.
Alternatively, there is a drop in LED module for the Mini-Mag (2xAA), made by a company called Opalec. The Opalec Newbeam is a drop in replacement for the mag bulb and reflector and the unit has full regulation circuitry. That means that the light output is constant for as long as the battery is able to provide enough juice for the circuitry, rather than the normal dimming over time sort of thing. The light provides good output continuously for at least 12 hours from one set of batteries (in practice, my Opalec ran for over 72 hours with useable light output from one pair of Alkaline AA's). I think the module is about £15.
http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/normal_search_result.php?keywo rds=newbeam
Carcajou Garou
27-07-2004, 02:38
Douglas, it will show a diffused light 100yds, not really a spotlight but it is a good companion to the LED, brighter than the Mini-Maglite(AA), but heavier. Batteries here are easier to get after a power outage as everyone either gets "AA", "D", they leave "C" on the shelves so!!!
just a thought
Douglas: Only 50 or 60 degreese...
Well i guess that explains the bloody eggs.
Wasn't fun as there were 20 odd people wanting their breakfast!!
RovingArcher
28-07-2004, 01:22
Oh yeah, the smaller the battery the faster it goes dead at the wrong time. Especially in cold weather. Our smallest is AA for my minimaglites, radios, a walkman cassette player and a small battery lamp for potty runs while camping.
Everything else is D, which includes 2 maglites and a larger CD boombox type of stereo. Gotta have my music while camping with the wife. :o):
I'd like to pick up a couple C cell maglites because the batteries are always in stock and from what I've seen at one of the local pharmacy/variety outlets in town they go on sale a lot too. :wink:
I have to go on the record (again) and say that I wouldn't recommend Maglites ... I have severa (AAA, AA, C and D cell varieties) and think that by today's standards they are overrated and their performance and reliability is poor.
There are better, cheaper flashlights available.
I have to go on the record (again) and say that I wouldn't recommend Maglites ... I have severa (AAA, AA, C and D cell varieties) and think that by today's standards they are overrated and their performance and reliability is poor.
There are better, cheaper flashlights available.
I wholly agree.
Maglites dont factor into my kit at all - I do have the opalec mod and it isnt bad, just that I have a lot better.
1. photon microlites (3 of em), one round my neck at all times, one as an area light for tents/bivvi's and a backup.
2. petzel tikka plus is superb as a "doing stuff round camp" light as well as nighttime trail walking. As soon as I'm settled, the photon takes over as an area light (if I need a light at all).
3. Surefire L4, high power, long life emergency lamp.
The Surefire is a bit on the pricey side, but it could easily be replaced by something a lot cheaper and possibly equally effective (though it surely wouldn't be as well made).
ANDYLASER
28-07-2004, 12:31
For a small 1xAA torch, look at either Arc AA or CMG Infinity Ultra. Both of these use LED's and will give approx 12 hours of usefull light output. The Inova X! is also good, but has a very tight beam.
TheViking
13-08-2004, 20:00
(When I can persuade my dad to buy me a digital camera, i'll take a picture)
He ordered the camera yesterday so it should arrive tomorrow or monday or so. :wink: :biggthump Then i'll take a picture of all the kit. :o):
mark wood
13-08-2004, 20:54
I bought a 'homemade' maglite conversion kit for 5 quid on ebay. It uses 3 white LEDs but doesn't have any fancy circuitry. It is best run at 4.5V rather than 3V and is a bit dim with 2AAs (useable, probaly quite long life but not as bright as the old bulb). I bough 3 LR1s and made a spacer out of card and foil. At 4.5V its brighter than the original but I haven't yet tested the battery life. I'd expect about 10 hours though.
Mark
TheViking, I would also reccommend you add a millbank bag to your kit for water filtration. I believe these are used by the army ( i could be wrong) and are very efficient for their purpose.
Also, If you are going to be travelling in Danish Wilderness i would also suggest you take a couple of survival blankets with you just in case, even though you say your kit is for living comfortably you should always be prepared for a dramatic change in the weather etc whilst out.
TheViking
17-08-2004, 14:49
Hi...
I don't know id you can get the Millbank bag over here. But I shall do a search! :wink:
Well, I don't travel that much in Denmark. We're a very small country and there's only a few hours walk before you get to civilisation again. :wink: Most of our water in lakes, streams and springs are fairly clean so it's usually enough to boil. :biggthump
The Swedish Army's survival manual was printed in 1988 and research in this area has come a long way since then. Nowadays the army say 5 minutes just because that they should be sure the soldiers really let it boil.
hi guys, i have been away for a while, I have done water purification courses with the military post 1988, they still qoute that you will have to boil water for on average 10mins (bearing in mind this is an average time).
On the flashlight issue I like ADI am a fan of the LED lights, I use a lucido lightwave and after the scottish trip have finally changed my batteries (almost three years of use), it is not the brightest of torches, but on the economy side of life you will not do better. It is bright enough to signal and work by at night and this is all I require of it. :o):
TheViking
18-08-2004, 17:47
Hi...
Well, check the gallery! :wink: Pics uploaded of my kit.... :biggthump