Modified Nimbewill Wood Stove - Part 2 [Archive]

View Full Version : Modified Nimbewill Wood Stove - Part 2

scoops_uk

15-09-2006, 21:28

They say never work with animals and children. Well add stainless steel to that list, blimey it's hard stuff but I finished the stove...see here (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community/showthread.php?p=193485#post19 3485) . Afraid I couldn't resist lighting it before photographing it, so it's not the shiny masterpiece it once was.

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/finished1.JPG

Aside from the problems of working with stainless steel (i.e. going through a lot of blades and cutting disks and wearing out a file!!) it wasn't too tricky to build. If you fancy a go you can download templates from here (http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/Plans.pdf) . Just print off the PDF choosing the no scaling option in the print options dialog.

First off I laid out the templates on my piece of stainless steel, before sticking them in place with a spray adhesive.

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/layout.JPG

Then I did a final quick measure before doing any cutting. Last chance saloon, once you've started cutting it's too late to go back!

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/measure.JPG

Next to make handling easier I rough cut out the parts with a jigsaw. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES - Eyes and flying metal bits don't mix.

I found that a normal HSS metal blade worked best, although they wore our fairly quickly. Things like progressor blades were too aggressive for the sheet material and caused the piece to bend horribly on some of the finer cuts later on.

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/roughcut.JPG

After the rough cuts, I trimmed as close to the line as I could with the jigsaw. I then did the tricky bits like the slots before finishing the piece by filing down to the line. Best to get the slots right rather than crying into your beer if you've messed up a slot and wasted all that filing effort. Stainless steel is HARD!!

The best method I found for the slots is to use a heavy duty cutting wheel on a dremel at about 3/4 full speed and cut into the center of the slot just enough to fit the jigsaw in. Then used the jigsaw to cut the slot out *exactly* as marked. Note my nifty homemade "vice" to make working on the sheet easier! I basically drilled a big hole and put a clamp through my bench! For the larger air slots I first drilled the ends (see tips below) and then use the slot cutting technique before finishing with a half round needle file.

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/dremel.JPG

After a bit of research I decided to drill the holes so I could control the volume of airflow and it's position through the grate, rather than my original BBQ mesh idea. For drilling the holes I found a normal 10mm HSS bit and running the drill slowly worked best. Centre punch the holes first. Don't get the bit hot or the stainless will eat it. I always kept the bit cool enough to touch. Keep some water handy to quench it in if it gets too hot. I'm sure oil is better but the stainless is probably going to kill the bit anyway before you have to worry about rust! (BTW I used a proper punch not the nail in the background for marking the centres. Nails don't touch the stainless, I tried it!) I have used nails to help stop the piece sliding aound under the force of the drill.

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/drill.JPG

For the bends I used a ball pein hammer and one of those mini vices, worked a treat but you need the hammer to get the bend nice and tight.

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/bend.JPG

When filing the sides, leave cutting the tab slots till last. Without the extra bit of material they are too flexible to file easily. When your ready to cut the slots use the jigsaw and tidy them up with a needle file.

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/tabs.JPG

Once finished put the bit's together and tada! :D

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/lit.JPG

Scoops

leon-b

15-09-2006, 21:34

nice one mate
leon

scoops_uk

15-09-2006, 22:33

Cheers Leon,

Just been reading about your day with Fenlander, you're a lucky guy! Keep up the great work and I'll look forward to attending one of your courses in a few years time!

Scoops

Ogri the trog

15-09-2006, 23:42

Scoops - nice one buddy,
I read about your modified top plate on another thread, how does it work in practice? ie without getting air to flow up around the sides of your Crusader cup.

You've done a good job there, I left the pieces of my attempt quite rough, just cleaned up the edges that I'll either catch my fingers on, or might damage a mesh bag in which the whole thing is carried.

ATB

Ogri the trog

scoops_uk

15-09-2006, 23:59

The results are a bit mixed, the top plate works but I've tended to remove it for cooking and add it to slow things down.

Adding a chimney has a dramatic effect (see below), and I'm thinking about redesigning the top plate swapping the hole for a rectangular chimney across the the back of the top plate. This will also provide a larger area on the rest of the top plate to be used as a hotplate for cooking bannock, simmering or drying tinder etc...

I made my first chimney in a hurry, can you tell :D

http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/chimney.JPG

A problem though is it getting too hot for the stainless with the chimney on and the stove enclosed. The grate glows bright red and sags and the sides get pretty soft too! An aluminium version would probably be a puddle!

Scoops

Stew

16-09-2006, 00:11

I guess it's too early to tell, but I'm curious how you'll find the height adjusters.

Personally I suspect that you won't see a big difference in performance but I'll be interested to see how you get on (ready for me to make my version! :D )

Stew

16-09-2006, 00:19

Also, did you change the location/quantity of ventilation slots in the end?

Looks like it's the same as your model but it's a bit hard to tell...

scoops_uk

16-09-2006, 00:32

I actually tried to move the air flow forwards by drilling the grate to create a particular area where the primary air comes in rather than using the indescriminate BBQ mesh. The holes are in the front 2/3 of the grate and are sized to open up about 30% of the area. (If you look at the bending picture you'll see what I mean).

I opted for that solution as it still allows the stove to be set up as a normal nimblewill with the vents at the back.

In that sense the height slots do make a difference as they allow the different configurations. The problem I have encountered is that without a chimney and the stove enclosed you get a lot of smoke which pops and flares(wood gas generation). Put a chimney on top and this all vanishes to be replaced with a continuous roaring flame from the wood gas.

Need to do some more experimentation before I decide how to progress.

Scoops

Glen

16-09-2006, 02:28

Nice one.

The results are a bit mixed, the top plate works but I've tended to remove it for cooking and add it to slow things down.

Adding a chimney has a dramatic effect (see below), and I'm thinking about redesigning the top plate swapping the hole for a rectangular chimney across the the back of the top plate. This will also provide a larger area on the rest of the top plate to be used as a hotplate for cooking bannock, simmering or drying tinder etc...

I made my first chimney in a hurry, can you tell :D

A problem though is it getting too hot for the stainless with the chimney on and the stove enclosed. The grate glows bright red and sags and the sides get pretty soft too! An aluminium version would probably be a puddle!

Scoops

With the micro chimney it's begining to look like a miniture kifaru stove.
http://www.kifaru.net/stovspex.htm
Click on the link for single tube pipe for chimney idea.
They make their stoves out of stainless steel, though I've not found out how thick, so would have thought you'd be OK, they do give a lifetime guarentee on them.

Image intensive link to one used with a tarp http://forums.kifaru.net/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f =4;t=000972;p=0
Half way down shows surprising pack size which amazingly includes the chimney.

anthonyyy

16-09-2006, 09:03

Very very nice work.

I wonder if part of the exhaust pipe of a truck do as a chimney pipe?

fred gordon

16-09-2006, 10:48

Fantastic work. I made an environmental fireplace, based on the Bill Mason model, some years ago and it has worked very well over the years. However, it has had its day and needs replacing. Are there any plans to make the drawings available for sale or on the site for downloading? :)

Stew

16-09-2006, 11:04

Are there any plans to make the drawings available for sale or on the site for downloading? :)

He already has:

If you fancy a go you can download templates from here (http://www.skeels.net//bushcraftuk/nimblewill/Plans.pdf) . Just print off the PDF choosing the no scaling option in the print options dialog.

fred gordon

16-09-2006, 16:13

Abject apologies! Missed that. Thanks for the reminder. :)

scoops_uk

16-09-2006, 17:58

Thanks Glen the kifaru is exactly the type of thing I was aiming to build. That was a very interesting link! Can't afford one and I have reservations about things like wing nuts which are easily lost on a woodland floor, but it's getting the juices flowing for my MkII version!! :D The roll up chimney is a great idea.

Fred - I would suggest if you want to build something now, knock up a quick basic nimblewill, they are great little stoves I found having a rough version to mess around with made me more patient making my modified version MkI. There's gonna be a MkII along soonish (off to Scotland for a couple of weeks first).

The MKII is going to be larger, that means heavier. What would people regard as a maximum weight? Bear in mind there's always the option to configure it as a basic nimblewill and leave the other parts at home. An Optimus Nova weighs 420g plus say 600g for a full half litre fuel bottle. We don't need to carry fuel so would a top weight of 1kg be OK or could we go higher for the full stove say 1.5kg? The stove is 650g at the mo, doubling that weight will provide a much bigger stove with a larger firebox and if I can find a source for 0.004 tempered stainless foil a chimney too!

Scoops

jdlenton

16-09-2006, 20:56

scoops that's a great piece of work even more so because you made it by hand out of stainless I've always contemplated making one of these but i would only have used mild steel for the prototypes as it a fire place who cars if it rust a little. let us know who you get on with the next ones a bigger stove wold be great i recon. If your going to make some more in stainless i recon you need to find a friendly engineer with a laser cutter that accepts beer as currency.:)

scoops_uk

17-09-2006, 09:58

Thanks for all the positive comments, much appreciated. :D

JD - got a mate who might know someone with a laser cutter, so I might have to explore that avenue. If anyone knows of anywhere that can laser cut stainless please let me know!

Scoops

woodwalker

18-09-2006, 16:37

the engineering departments of some universities sometimes have them. Not sure if they will let you use it though.

woodwalker

Spikey DaPikey

18-09-2006, 17:41

You could always ask the student to make it as a project for you, and pay in beer tokens :rolleyes:

wildrover

26-09-2006, 00:11

What thickness of stainless did you use?

scoops_uk

08-10-2006, 01:07

Hi Wildrover,

Sorry for the delay in replying I've been away in Scotland for the last two weeks.

I used ~1mm stainless offcuts that I got cheap from a local sheet metal workers. I think the actual thickness is 0.9mm but I've not actually measured it, I just asked if they had any sheet stainless offcuts around 1mm thick and used what I got :D

Scoops

wildrover

09-10-2006, 23:07

Ta for that
what thickness do you think you'll use for the bigger version?

stevec

10-10-2006, 14:28

if the chimny was made a bit more subsantial, three h shaped strips of metal, and put a small wok on top of the chimny, might be worth trying out with a tin can and some coat hanger wire perhaps?

looks good in any case
steve

scoops_uk

10-10-2006, 19:03

Wildrover,

I'm going to stick with the same thickness for the larger version, I might opt for interlocking tabs on the top and bottom plates that connect to the sides in the same way as the back currently does to prevent warping, although it only seems to be a problem when you stuff it full and give it loads of air and a chimney :D

stevec,

I love the wok idea :lmao: stir fry anyone?

I can see I'm gonna have to get the CAD going again, although for the next one I'm going to try and get the parts cut. I have a mate whose an engineer and knows someone...

Scoops

stevec

11-10-2006, 08:42

the reason why i suggested a few pot stands on the chimny was that quite a while ago, i was round a mates house who had a chimnina(sp) and it wasn't doing too much in the way of heat or flames, so i suggested that we took the "hat" off the top of the chimny, the flames were about 4-5ft high, so i figured that with a long handled frying pan some good cooking could be done. having seen the difference the chinmy made to the flames on your stove, i fugured the same would apply quite nicely.

steve

scoops_uk

14-10-2006, 13:44

Hi Steve,

The problem with cooking on the chimney is that it really isn't that sturdy and as the top plate is loose even if the chimney was fixed in place I think the weight of the pan plust the chimney acting as a lever could be a bit to tippy.

Interesting to hear of the effect of the chimney cap though. I was going to add a mesh cap (car body repair aluminium mesh) to the chimney to stop sparks emerging as a precaution for tent /dry woodland use but now I'm pondering having that plus some sort of air flow regulation. Hmmmm.

Scoops

stevec

16-10-2006, 08:22

Hi mate, i should point out that the mesh in the "hat" was very blocked with soot. i don't suppose putting mesh over the chimny will be a problem as long as you make sure it doesn't get clogged up.

best regards
steve

scoops_uk

16-10-2006, 18:02

That's sort of why I was thinking of using a mesh hat rather than putting it somewhere less accessible. The other option was a slotting it in partway up the chimney but I had all sorts of issues about chimney strength and slotting things into cylinders without cutting halfway through the cylinder etc...

Have decided to make a firebox next as I want to experiment with different fire sizes to figure out how much bigger I need to make the next stove.

Scoops

Paul Holtom

20-01-2007, 19:25

Any updates on the stove, have just started one of my own and was wondering if the height adjustable grate is worth the effort.

Great design by the way, it really goes together well and certainly looks the part.

scoops_uk

20-01-2007, 19:49

Hi Paul,

I'm still pondering the next incarnation.

The changes I think are most likely are...

Making the stove larger probably going just over 1kg overall weight. (It's about 0.6kg as it stands). This is to reduce the frequency of refuelling.

Changing the connection between the sides and the grate and base so that they interlock with eachother (like the sides do with the back plate). To reduce the potential for the sides to warp away from the grate and base when hot.

I think as a backpacking stove the existing version is just fine. With my planned design I am leaning more towards a tipi stove which has the function of space heating and slow fuel consumption as priorities ahead of boiling a pot of water.

Good luck and please share any lessons you learn :D

Scoops

Stew

20-01-2007, 19:57

Scoops,

For the larger version are you going to go more square or keep it rectangular?

I would think rectangular would be better for the chimney but if you go square you could possibly use pieces from your existing design.

scoops_uk

20-01-2007, 20:05

Stew

20-01-2007, 22:55

Hi Stew,

The proportions will probably remain much the same. The chimney is still the bit of the design that's keeping me pondering the most. Chimney's really should be circular to work well for minimum diameter, I just can't decide how best to connect the tube to the box.

Scoops

I guess space is an issue with a cylindrial chimney as it won't pack down.

What I would try is have 3 tabs at the base of the chimney that stick out at 90 degrees and on the lid of the stove have 3 slots for them to rotate into. For the slots, cut an L shape then bend it slightly so it's raised - the chimney tabs would need to stick out past the slot tab.

Does that make sense?

Would a hexagonl chimeny be too muh hassle?

cyclist

21-01-2007, 10:07

I guess space is an issue with a cylindrial chimney as it won't pack down.

no, not really - if you think about

- using the chimney as a "storage container"

and / or

- the Caldera Cone meth. stove windshield - it´s just a flat piece of sheet metal.
Only thing I don´t like about it that I didn´t get idea myself ....

Stew

21-01-2007, 10:46

- using the chimney as a "storage container"

I did think about that but thought it wouldn't be big enough to store stove part in and wouldn't want to put other stuff in there.

- the Caldera Cone meth. stove windshield - it´s just a flat piece of sheet metal.

Now that is a superb idea! If the material is thin enough it'll roll fine and store inbetween the parts of the stove when flat packed.

Only thing I don´t like about it that I didn´t get idea myself ....

but you probably would have. An update to the Nimblewell that I had thought of was to put arches in the bottom of the sides to reduce weight yet Scoops beat me into putting it into practice. Great minds and all that....

scoops_uk

21-01-2007, 16:19

An update to the Nimblewell that I had thought of was to put arches in the bottom of the sides to reduce weight yet Scoops beat me into putting it into practice. Great minds and all that....

Means the stove sits on uneven ground much better too :D

Although my leave no trace aspirations probably mean the next version will be raised higher on some sort of stilts/spikes. As it stands at the moment if used on grass you do get a scorched patch.

I like your twist to lock chimney idea Stew, I think I'm going to have a play with that.

Cheers,

Scoops (smelling like a kipper coz I've just got back from playing out :D )

cyclist

22-01-2007, 07:29

maybe a 2 (or even 3) piece twist lock chimney - the longer the chimney the better the exhaust gas flow and the better the combustion air flow intake

maybe cooking on top of the chimney

maybe designing the chimney parts to fit around a water bottle - accepting the contamination of the water bottles walls but having the spout clean

maybe ....

you see - it´s lots & lots of ideas in a simple wood burning stove :D

Don Redondo

22-01-2007, 13:00

use a kelly kettle as a chimney?

ok loads of reasons why not... but.............

cyclist

23-01-2007, 06:33

probably its a bit narrow on the Nimblewill Stove for both pan and kettle. But again this might be an idea to work on: hot water and preparing food at the same time
Using the Kelly Kettle as a chimney isn´t such a good idea. Never ever use a KK (or its cousins from the giant Volcano family) without water in it - the aluminum will melt in no time

scoops_uk

23-01-2007, 13:10

A lot of stoves have a water tank which fits to the side of the stove, with a tap. Which gives a reserve of hot water, as long as the tank is kept topped up and the stove burning, whenever it is needed.

Have a look here (http://www.springbar.com/shop/proddetail.php?prod=105111)

Just need to find a suitable rectangular tank that can be hooked tightly against the side of the stove to heat up whilst cooking on top.

Start looking round your everyday objects there must be a ready made tank waiting to be discovered somewhere! :D

Scoops

Hiker

23-01-2007, 14:12

I have never seen them before

What a great idea :)

Don Redondo

23-01-2007, 15:25

scoops_uk

23-01-2007, 18:49

often wonder about an old square section teapot/kettle from a 'teasmaid'.... or a oil resevoir for a custom Harley... or how about a 1gallon jerry can?

Bingo! :You_Rock_

I bet there must be plenty of teasmaid kettles kicking round at car boot sales, or certainly something similar.

Scoops

Glen

23-01-2007, 21:50

I bet there must be plenty of teasmaid kettles kicking round at car boot sales, or certainly something similar.

Scoops

Might be able to do something with the piping that's in them too, a syphon tap could be easier than making a water tight seal for a bottom based tap.

When fixing the box to the side have a little water in box and tap open, tilt forward to fill syphon pipe, close tap to keep the water in the pipe, from then on syphoning should occur whenever the tap is opened.

cyclist

25-01-2007, 06:48

my Kelly Kettle & Trangia are living in the same shelf and spend a lot of time on extended tours - it had to be, it was just a matter of time: Trangia is pregnant now. :) :D ;)

In August we´ll see :lmao:

Glen

26-06-2007, 23:27

scoops_uk

27-06-2007, 12:36

I've not forgot this chimney material quest.

Corr, that looks just the job Glen! :You_Rock_

Now if it was only a bit cheaper ;)

Been a bit quiet on the stove building of late, but I was out using mine last w/e and the ideas are still coming. Really trying to get a handle on what can and can't be usefully done with a fire of the size we can build in such a compact stove.

Scoops

Dano

27-06-2007, 16:09

can you please tell me what the bit marked red is for

http://f7.yahoofs.com/users/4598965embec6f64c/ef26re2/__sr_/b0dere2.jpg?phYWogGBRI_j7WMm

and how do you get these images to come up?

Shewie

04-12-2009, 20:00

Sorry to drag an old thread out but I'm giving this one a go over winter. Got myself a nice big shiney sheet of stainless to play with, I just need to get some more files and discs for the dremel.

I take it you don't mind me having a bash scoops ?

scoops_uk

05-12-2009, 18:34

I take it you don't mind me having a bash scoops ?

Of course not :D

Be warned, patience is a virtue :lmao:

Scoops

Shewie

05-12-2009, 18:43

Cheers Scoops

I should be able to get most of it done in the college workshop where the wife works. All sorts of toys there to hopefully make life a bit easier. I'll try and do the bulk of it there and then finish the filing at home.

Did you ever sort out the square section chimney ?

scoops_uk

05-12-2009, 20:35

Did you ever sort out the square section chimney ?

My evolutions moved away from the mini-stove and back more towards a firebox so the chimney's never really saw much development. Certainly a chimney does make it draw better.

Scoops

Shewie

05-12-2009, 21:25

My evolutions moved away from the mini-stove and back more towards a firebox so the chimney's never really saw much development. Certainly a chimney does make it draw better.

Scoops

A firebox for canoe trips was my first thought and then I came across your nimblewell. I've got a sheet of 600x600mm stainless to come up with something anyway, maybe something in between.

QDanT

07-12-2009, 23:22

Hi Scoops I've had an answer from Shewie on another thread :-

I'm having a crack at a large nimblewell over winter too Danny, it'll be useful to see your pics as they progress. Probably at a much faster rate than mine :)
So wondered if it's OK to post in this one ?
Just to get the feel I've started with the plans from Zen Stoves for the
Nimblewill Nomad's Wood Burning Stove this one doesn't have the fire grate plate but I'm using some some 4 1/2" wide x 1/16" thick x 4' mild steel off cuts I've had given. I printed the plans out on thin card for a model and to use as templates to felt tip round on the steel. 5" wide would have been better but seen as it's only a trial I made the steel pan cut outs shallower. I cut the first one out this morning while waiting for the rain to stop using a hacksaw then drilled three small holes at the top of the slots to fit a broken hacksaw blade sharpened to a point that as it fits in I cut down to the bottom of the slot, then widened them and cleaned them up with a Swiss file. Managed one end before I set of on a Teddy Tour.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j274/QDanT/nimberwell1.jpg
This one should give me a feel and if Shewie posts his results as well I might try your plans in Stainless steel as well ----- cheers Danny

scoops_uk

10-12-2009, 22:37

So wondered if it's OK to post in this one ?

Of course, the more the merrier :D

Scoops

bhofmann

01-01-2010, 12:13

This is fascinating. I only found the plans the other day and decided to have a go at one myself. Now that I want to share my experience I find I should have done a little reading before getting my hands dirty. I didn't buy steel, so just used what I had. You guys seem to have done far more professional work than me. Mine will get the job done, but is far from anywhere as good as yours.

goodjob

Here's a link to mine in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2bT_EizJw8. The youtube description also includes my notes:

Nimblewill Nomad's Little Dandy Wood Stove

Source of the plans and the idea: http://www.nimblewillnomad.com/stove.htm

Measurements
============
Flat packed: 8mm x 115mm x 160mm
Weight: Under 800 grams / 1lb 12oz (not a digital scale, only accurate to about 50g).
Floor area inside: 95mm x 133mm
Overall height: 113mm
Height of floor above ground: 20mm
Height from floor to top: 90mm

Notes
=====
I would expect this to be considerably lighter when made from thinner steel. I like things strong, and it's what I had available. I would imagine the sides of an old computer case would be easier to work and lighter, but I would burn the parts in an out door fire to remove any paint or other finishes on it.

More attention to detail and making both sides the same would make assembly quicker and easier. Mine fits both ways, but only fits well one way.

I goofed and cut the slot for the front left slot from the bottom when it should have been from the top. I managed to cut a shallow slot from the top but the cut from the bottom will always be there now.

jonajuna

05-01-2010, 21:57

fleabay has A4 sized (200/300) sheets of stainless going at £3-£4 a sheet, i reckon you could just about squeeze these patterns into 4 sheets

scubapauly

05-01-2010, 22:34

fleabay has A4 sized (200/300) sheets of stainless going at £3-£4 a sheet, i reckon you could just about squeeze these patterns into 4 sheets

They print quite easily on A4 sheets :)

BushEd

05-01-2010, 23:47

durulz

06-01-2010, 09:00

i know theres a lot of fun to be had in making your own stuff, but you can't really beat these for price. well i can't anyway as in order to make it myself i'd have to buy all sorts of tools i can't afford.

http://www.canoepaddler.me.uk/fireboxes.htm

Yeah, true enough. But if you buy the tools you always have them and then you can make many other things as well - continually saving you money as well as the satisfaction at having made things for yourself. After a short time the tools have paid for themselves. For example, a cheap grinder/cutter can be bought for LESS than £20 (the price of one of the stoves your link leads to!). And sheet stainless steel can be got for NOTHING at a local sheet metal worker (I know because I got some off cuts for free!).
I made a Nimblewill stove some time ago now and the only cost for it was about £5, for the cutting discs. OK, I already had the Dremel, but as I've said, you can buy Dremel-clones for not much and you always have them and they are always useful.

Black Sheep

07-01-2010, 13:23

I've just ordered some stainless steel to make one of these from a local engineering company.

The width of the front is the same as the height:rolleyes:(sizes taken from printed templates) so have asked for a strip 700mm x 120mm for the side, another 420mm x 160mm for the inner plates in 1mm and one 130mm x 160mm in 1.5mm for the grate = Total cost £15.

Hopefully this will give me some nice straight edges to work from. I'll post my results when I get it done.

Cheers

Richard

durulz

07-01-2010, 18:19

Here's my Nimblewill.
I recently widened it. That meant cutting a new back plate, bottom plate and front bracing strips.
www.flickr.com/photos/9179907@N06/4254634190/in/photostream/

Here is the original one I made. You can see it is slightly narrower.
www.flickr.com/photos/9179907@N06/4147468765/in/photostream/