View Full Version : frosts clipper info
hi guys i have just bought a frosts clipper from ebay and it sould be coming soon but i would like a bit of info on the clipper i.e is it strong , how long will it last ect i have looked around on te net but i cant seem to find any
also as the clipper is a very popular knife for beginers i figured that it could help alot of others looking to purchuse this knife rather than just helping me
thanks leon
You need to be a bit more specific in your questions Leon. So far you've asked...
is it strong?
Well yes and no. It is alot stronger than a banana, but not as strong as a diamond. It is stronger when you are cutting with it than when you are trying to lever the lid off of a paint tin (which will usually make the tip of the knife snap off BTW)
how long will it last ?
How long is a piece of string? What I mean to say is it will last longer than you will live if it is looked after, not abused, not allowed to rust away etc. etc. However if you stick it in a vat of acid, or accidentaly leave it on the moon it will not last very long.
I'm not trying to be rude Leon, but if there are any more specific questions fire away :)
Marts
it is a stainless steel version so i shouldnt have that much of a problem with rust what else will i need to do to look after it except for sharpening
in mors kochankis book it says that if you can hammer your knife all the way into a tree and then stand on it without it breaking then it is a good knife will i be able to do this not that i am planning to but i was just wondering
also have you had much experience with tis knife and was it any good for you
thanks leon
bogflogger
16-06-2006, 16:25
Here's a useful article, courtesy of Old Jimbo:
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/mora2.html
Leon, the Clipper is strong enough to cope with virtually all things you will do with a knife within the relms of bushcraft, if you use the correct techniques you will be able to cut,carve,batton,skin,feather sticks etc etc without harming the knife. Its ideal to learn with as even if you damage the knife they are cheap enough not to get upset over.
How long will it last ?, well that depends on how you use it and look after it, after a while you may wish to either carry on using the clipper or purchase something else either out of need or desire.
Good luck with your Bushcraft career and dont forget to get out as often as you can and practice the craft. ;)
in mors kochankis book it says that if you can hammer your knife all the way into a tree and then stand on it without it breaking then it is a good knife will i be able to do this not that i am planning to but i was just wondering
also have you had much experience with tis knife and was it any good for you
thanks leon
Leon, Mors uses one of these knives.
I have one (the carbon version) and it's very good indeed. The only thing that I have done to mine is square off the spine of the knife using a diamond file, apart from that they are very good straight out of the box.
yes i am planning on filing down the spine so that it will work with firesteel aswell
Biddlesby
16-06-2006, 16:52
The plastic sheath they come with isn't so strong - I've been careful with mine so far but I've heard they snap easily. All the more reason to practice your leathwork with a custom sheath! When using a plastic sheath, I've been advised to slice off the bottom to let water drain out.
i think that the plastic standered sheath already comes with a hole in the bottom
and i was thinking of making a sheath do you know rougly how much it would cost
thanks leon
You don't need to cut the end off, just drill a couple of holes.
The standing on a knife stuck in a tree has been done by some of the "more senior" ;) members here. If you look around there's a video of it. However I think that it was a full tang knife. The stick tang in a mora may not cope with this as well - plus it's not avery nice thing to do to a tree (when the guys here did it it was on a tree that was scheduled for the chop anyway)
Stainless is exactly what it says - stainless It doesn't mean it won't rust, just not as quickly as a carbon blade.
I have several Moras. They are good all round knives and I particularly like them for green wood carving, which is what I seem to do most of :rolleyes:
sxmolloy
16-06-2006, 16:57
i have the carbon blade clipper, great knife and strong enough for most things. i purchased (unable to make my own :( ) a leather sheath to replace the plastic one that came with it. they are very sharp out of the box and just need a little work on the spine in order to use with a fire steel. the only other thing i did was drill a small lanyard hole in the handle, but that was just for personal preference. they really are good knives...cheers....stu
i think that the plastic standered sheath already comes with a hole in the bottom
and i was thinking of making a sheath do you know rougly how much it would cost
thanks leon
It depends on materials you want to use, leather costs about £3.70 for a square foot. If you are making a dangler sheath you will need a D ring as well.
Good heavy grade linen thread can be bought in lengths of about 10 meters, cost is about 85p.
You'll need some contact adhesive (I tend to use PVA, but anything will do).
After that it is time and the design for making one.
i have a couple of questions
how easy is it and how long does it take for the stainless version to rust?
how do you take care of it when it has rusted?
how do you prevent it from rusting?
[QUOTE=Marts]The standing on a knife stuck in a tree has been done by some of the "more senior" ;) members here. If you look around there's a video of it. However I think that it was a full tang knife. The stick tang in a mora may not cope with this as well - plus it's not avery nice thing to do to a tree (when the guys here did it it was on a tree that was scheduled for the chop anyway
If I remember correctly it was a stick tang Pukko, done to demonstrate that a stick tang is plenty strong enough to cope with that 'test'.
The Scandinavians have been making and using knives for quite some time and know a thing or two about knife making, I think I'm right in saying the majority of their knives being made with stick tangs.
dommyracer
16-06-2006, 17:14
I picked up a carbon 740 recently for my first fixed blad knife in a looong time.
From what I've been reading about knives recently, keeping it dry and storing it in a dry atmosphere should stop it from rusting.
ok thanks dommy
does any one know where i can see that video because i have looked around but i cant find it
British Red
16-06-2006, 18:10
ok thanks dommy
does any one know where i can see that video because i have looked around but i cant find it
Hi Leon-b mate (as opposed to Leon-1),
Worry not about hammering your frost into a tree and standing on it - its a fairly extreme test and really not that relevant in the real world (although I'm happy to see you got Mors K's book - what do you think of it?). If you do get any rust on your blade, rub the rust of with some fine wire wool (or your Mums kitchen scouring pas when she's not looking ;)). Give the blade a wipe over with some oil (wither a quirt of 3 in 1 from the shed (ask your dad for some), or WD40 from the car (comes in a spray can or even a wipe with cooking oil. Always clean any gunk (tree sap etc.) off it after use and give it a light wipe with an oily cloth.
Tada - no rust
Red
yes we have got some wd40 so i will just put a bit of that on every now and again
i am enjoying mors k bushcraft i am just past half way into it in the shelters paragraph great book i also got food for free and trees both collins gem
British Red
16-06-2006, 19:42
Glad you are enjoying the book mate ;). Time for your sharpening kit now!
Red
yes you know the post about your £5 sharpening kit is the sharpening kit any good
how long will it last ?
accidentaly leave it on the moon it will not last very long.
on the moon it would last alot longer then down here :p no wind ,water,,or any erosive force
sorry :o
British Red
16-06-2006, 20:32
yes you know the post about your £5 sharpening kit is the sharpening kit any good
Used well it is as effective as a £50 set of bench stones mate. You will need to get some of the finer papers (1,500 grit and maybe a bit finer) to get the mirror polish. To be honest though, with a bit of imaginantion, you can do it for next to nothing. If you struggle, I'll coach you through it till you get it right.
Red
wingstoo
16-06-2006, 20:47
I used one of Reds kits on a couple of Mora's, shaving sharp in very little time, didn't worry about the real fine sheets, just a pack of assorted from Halfords...
The hair on my arm has now grown back ready for when I do a re-sharpen on the stash of other blades I now have...
LS
British Red
16-06-2006, 20:50
:)
You can use my kit any time LS - just stay away from my flint & steel ;) (LS can kill tinder by blowing on it - go figure)
Red
wingstoo
16-06-2006, 21:05
:)
You can use my kit any time LS - just stay away from my flint & steel ;) (LS can kill tinder by blowing on it - go figure)
Red
Thanks Red...
I guess that I will have to try a wee dram of meths to help with the fire lighting!!!
LS
lol you are so funny cormac
ok i should be going into town this weekend so i will get some wet and dry
what grits do you reccomend
wingstoo
16-06-2006, 21:20
lol you are so funny cormac
We try our best Leon...we get loads of laughs when I try the flint and steel, and even more laughs when I breath fire after Reds chilli... :lmao:
LS
wingstoo
16-06-2006, 21:22
ok i should be going into town this weekend so i will get some wet and dry
what grits do you reccomend
Red will be best to answer this one, but I just went into the local Halfords and found a multi grade pack, you will also need some ply wood and carpet tape to make your boards up.
LS
lol what grits would you reccomend to make a sharpening set
British Red
16-06-2006, 21:27
Leon,
Go for 240, 400 and 600 (or fairly close). If you can get anything finer (say 1,000 or 1,500) grab a sheet. If not, Theres a website where its 79p a sheet including p&p or thereabouts. Try to grab some spray adhesive (photomount) or a bit of double sided tape if you haven't already got some. Then you'll just need some board to stick down on. You will need patience and care the first time you do it, but trust me it works.
Next lesson after that is to carve feather sticks with at least one complete circle on each feather (two is better) ;). The only way to do that is sit in the garden and practice!
Red
British Red
16-06-2006, 21:28
Nice avatar by the way!
i think i will get 240,400,600 and 1000 grit
i quite like the carving side of bushcraft i have started a spoon but the old knife that i was using wasnt up to it so i am just going to wait for my clipper
British Red
16-06-2006, 21:33
You may struggle to find 1,000 grit mate. Don't worry too much. Try with up to 600 grit first. When you have the hang of that I'll tell you where to get the fine stuff
Red
ok i will just get 240,400 and 600 these should do
is it harder to carve a spoon than to carve a feather stick
wingstoo
16-06-2006, 21:39
is it harder to carve a spoon than to carve a feather stick
No Leon, it is much easier to do a feather stick than a spoon, though most of my spoons do end up as feather sticks by the time I have finished with them...
They have been likened to paddles...
LS
yes i thought carving a featherstick would be easier is there a certain type of wood you recommend or can you use any
British Red
16-06-2006, 21:49
Leon,
Spoons (good ones) are much harder. The feather stick is a fantastic tool though. Fine curls of wood are shaved down the stick (staying attached though) and you build up a mass of fine curls of wood attached to the stock. This should be done on a dry piece of wood. When added to the burning tinder you have lit with your fire steel etc. the thin curls catch quickly and then set fire to the larger stick. Even if the outside is damp, if its old, dead wood, the inner should be dry which is another plus.
Theres an art to doing them well - the finer the better, the curlier the better - theres a picture in your Mors Kochanski book. Its a real skill to be able to do them well. four of five good ones really get your fire going well. Even if you just have a few sticks to mess with in a small garden, its a good skill to learn. Stick a photo up when you have a really good one (you neve know it might be better than mine!)
Red
ok as soon as i get my clipper i will get a couple of sticks and give it a go
i have seen ray mears make curves so fine that he can light them with a firesteel
British Red
16-06-2006, 21:54
yes i thought carving a featherstick would be easier is there a certain type of wood you recommend or can you use any
Whatevers dry and sticklike mate - I usually look for standing dry wood (a fallen caught up branch etc.), easy enough to lick up a stick or two on your travels - any dry stick will do.
You really should ask your mum / dad to help you practice firelighting in the garden. They (the fires) don't have to be big and can be contained in an old barbecue, roasting dish, flat bit of metal, old paving slab, anything fire proof really.
I know you don't need them to help (and if they say you can do it on your own, thats fine), but all adults are just big kids and we like to play too (and if we get enthusiastic about it, you get to do more stuff ;)).
Red
British Red
16-06-2006, 21:57
ok as soon as i get my clipper i will get a couple of sticks and give it a go
i have seen ray mears make curves so fine that he can light them with a firesteel
Thats a real art form mate - if you can light a feather stick from a firesteel, you win a bushcraft related prize (no guys not all of you, just Leon)!
Red
yes my mum doesnt mind me cooking on an open fire when i am bushcrafting out in the forest so i dont think she will mind if i practise in the garden
i know you must have to carve them well fine
ray has got alot of skil though
British Red
16-06-2006, 22:02
No skill + time + patience + practice = skill
Well fine is right - about as thick as a piece of cotton thread (or better yet finer)
Serious offer though - a prize when you can achieve it reliably - fair enough?
Red
rapidboy
16-06-2006, 22:02
I abuse a Frosts clipper every day.
As my rough working knife it's used for cutting ,scraping and reaming all sorts of materials.
I use it as a chisel and I often batton it through wood, light metal, plaster and cement.
It's often used as a lever and gets sharpened regularly.
Many lunchtimes it's also used as a throwing knife for a bit of fun.
Im sure a lifetime of bushcrafting would not be as hard as a couple of month's of daily use on a building site.
They really are very tough and normal use should never be a problem for these knives.
wingstoo
16-06-2006, 22:03
Thats a real art form mate - if you can light a feather stick from a firesteel, you win a bushcraft related prize (no guys not all of you, just Leon)!
Red
Santa Claus is coming to town... :lmao:
Sorry Red...couldn't restrain my self...
LS
So very good questions Leon, but books are one thing...doing it is quite different.
ok red if your serious i better get practising
i have never done it in my life so how hard is it
i will take a photo of it when i have done it
British Red
16-06-2006, 22:14
ok red if your serious i better get practising
i have never done it in my life so how hard is it
How hard? Making a basic feather stick takes a good few practice sessions. Making one thats fine enough to light (and stay alight) with a single match - quite a few more. Making one you can light with a fire steel - how would I know? I've tried it a few times - can't get the trick of it at all! I know it can be done cos others have achieved it, me - not managed it yet. Fire steel - no probs with other tinder. Flint and steel - yep. Fire piston - no problem. Solar, yep several different ways, electrical - easy, chemical - yep, fire by friction, natuarally - firesteel and featherstick - AAAARGHHHHH nope:). You get a prize, cos I expect you explain to me how you got it to work, what technique you used etc.
Red
ok i will practise and practise and hopefully i will get it
if i do it shall i just send you a couple of pics
ive been doing some looking
you can get carbon / stainless
silid green handle/2 tone plastic /birch
and you can get one with a finger guard
which would /have ye chosen and why
Leon -b,
Just thought you might be interested in seeing what can be done with the feather stick art.
It is used to leave messages (left on a tree by a trail) by the natives here and also for religious ceremonies.
They can turn a stick into a volleyball sized ball of fuzz in less than a minute.
Being someone who cuts off more curls than he leaves on the stick, I seldom unsheath a knife when these guys are around! :o
I'm sure you will do far better.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i154/BOD_photos/Gawaiharvestsacrifice2.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i154/BOD_photos/GawaiharvestSacrifice.jpg
sorry cormac i dnt quite understand
what options would you get on the knife
type of blade ,lenth,type of handle
rapidboy
17-06-2006, 12:50
I use a stainless version for my rough work knife as it's a softer steel than the carbon version.
The stainles blade doesn't take as good an edge as the carbon blade but is very resistant to chipping and i use mine daily as lever without damage.
For bushcraft i'd use the carbon version as they take a much better edge.
well it a bit late now as i have just bought the stainless version for bushcraft
oh well
Its still an excellent knife for most people beginner or otherwise.
Remember that rapidboy is far more skilled than most and can get more out of the blade than us.
It' s like learning to play a violin, there is no point having a Stradivarius.
rapidboy
18-06-2006, 09:40
Remember that rapidboy is far more skilled than most and can get more out of the blade than us.
Your obviously thinking about another rapidboy :lmao:
leon-b, don't get me wrong the stainless will still take a great edge and won't rust or damage as easily as the carbon version.
I carry a stainless version every day, you will be amazed at how much knife your getting for your money
British Red
18-06-2006, 10:50
Did you get the wet & dry paper Leon?
yes got it yesterday red
now i just need some thing to stick them to
British Red
18-06-2006, 19:18
leon,
Just make sure its flat!
Worth dooing a search in this site for "hoodoo hone" if you want to do the fancy version ;)
Failing that, a piece of plywood, mdf or just a flat slice of plank. Tiles work okay but can break if you use too much pressure. Anything you can cut to size that keeps flat. Try having a look in any skips you pass (you should ask permission before removing anything though). Any builders are generally happy to give you a few offcuts
Red
yes i had a look but i dont have any thing lying round the house so i will probably get some out of a skip there is a few round here
seeing as you are pretty experienced and i am just starting out i thought i would ask you what do you think is the first subject i should practise on
British Red
18-06-2006, 19:27
What for sharpening? Your Mora mate!
no just general bushcraft
British Red
18-06-2006, 19:32
Hmm - I get bored doing just one - try several - firecraft, cordage, knots, plant identification - try them all. I was out for a walk today and spotted a "new" tree to me - which reminds me - must look it up. Spotted a load of damsel fles (posted a picc somewhere), pretty little roe deer, buzzards etc. Just get out and see what you can see. Take your two books, sit on a hill and see what you can find!
Red
i have just started knots because you can do it inside the house
i can do the figure of 8,the figure of 8 loop and the bowline
British Red
18-06-2006, 19:40
Good call! there are some good websites about that show them - learn a timber hitch, round turn and two half hitches as well ;) Oh and search on evenk knot - good for hammocks!
Good call! there are some good websites about that show them - learn a timber hitch, round turn and two half hitches as well ;) Oh and search on evenk knot - good for hammocks!
ok i have found a realy good site i think ther is a link on the forums some where i will learn them tonite hopefully
leon-b, you can use any oil to keep your knife rust free, but I suggest you use an edible oil like sunflower, vegetable or olive oil. Then you can use your knife for food prep!
I've had a good day out here in Germany, and I cooked sausages skewered on a stick, bacon hung over the fire, and a bean feast in my billy can. I went with my five year old daughter and a mate from work who said he would never have dreamed of cooking using the techniques that I used, he couldn't believe how simple they were!! He said he would have tried to make a whole big grill over the fire like a barbeque, which just goes to show that with a bit of thought and knowledge, you can save yourself a lot of work!
I hope you have fun on your outings, stick around here and you will learn all sorts of ways to do things, and you'll have fun doing most of them!!
yes i plan to stick around this is a great site
just learnt two half hitches red
By the way, I used a frosts knife today, and they are great. I modified the sheath by chopping off the loop at the join to the sheath, where it corrugates. I drilled two holes into it and tied a turks head on to the sheath. The ends were pushed through the holes and I can tie them to my belt or necktie them if I wish. It is very easy to do!!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/Spamel/HPIM2414.jpg
This is the front of the sheath, decorative and simple knot.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/Spamel/HPIM2413.jpg
This shows the rear and how the two ends from the knot are passed through the holes to give a useable length to tie on to a belt, etc.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/Spamel/HPIM2415.jpg
Close up of the Turks Head knot. There are many variations of this knot, this is a simple version!
well done you have made a very nice sheath there
Well, more of an adaptation! The idea was that the normal way, it sits rigidly on the belt. This way, it stays out of the way and has a bit of movement and doesn't jab you in the kidney when you sit down!!
i like it how long did it take you
About five minutes! Just tied a turks head knot in the middle of some olive paracord, drilled the holes with a dremel and pushed the cord ends through. It is simple and effective, but it may get replaced soon if a certain persons sheath gets put into the BCUK shop!
British Red
18-06-2006, 21:28
just learnt two half hitches red
One of the simplest knots, but I use it a lot - Oh...have a look at a clove hitch too 0 thats a useful one :)
Nice adaption spamel - any sausages left :)
right ok i'll learn the clove hitch
so far i no th figure of 8, figure of 8 loop, bowline and two half hitches
bogflogger
19-06-2006, 07:38
Here you go Leon, this lot should keep you busy:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15708&highlight=turks+head
(lots of good links here). :D
your right i am going to be busy
thanks great link
red could you use the two half hitches for a hammock or would it slip
bogflogger
19-06-2006, 16:59
You are always better off using a Round Turn and Two Half Hitches.
It is a lot more secure, in fact this is one of the knots used to attach Anchors (so it has to be reliable and strong).
A quick definition:
Knot = A permanent fixing.
Hitch = A temporary fixing.
All Hitches are easy/fast to tie, but should be replaced by a proper knot ASAP.
ok thanks mate
but im a bit unsure of what you mean do you mean tye both of them or...............
bogflogger
19-06-2006, 17:18
All of the Knots and Hitches used today come from the days of the old Sailing Ships (some have been renamed by Landlubbers :p ).
Imagine you are heaving a full barrel of Salt Pork out of a boat up onto the deck and need to stop for a second.
You would use a Rolling Hitch to take the weight while you did whatever you need to do.
When you get the barrel where it's going to be stored, you would lash it into place with Knots.
i know the figure of 8, the figure of 8 loop, bowline, two half hitches
what knot do you think i should learn next
bogflogger
19-06-2006, 17:32
Try both ways of tying a Clove Hitch.
what do you mean both ways
there is one method for doing it in the middle of a rope the X method
and 1 for the end of a rope
British Red
19-06-2006, 18:03
Leon,
So we are clear mate, the two half hitches are the bits where you pass the free end of the rope over the fixed (long) end to "lock it off". Imagine standing in front of a tree with a hammock. you pass the rope round the back of the tree. Now pass it round the tree again. now tie two half hitches. Thats a round turn and two half hitches. As for the clove hitch, I know what bogflogger means, I just struggle to explain it. Heres the way by which you do it in the midle of a rope.
1. Starting in the middle of the rope. make a circle. Do it so that the piece of rope leading to your left is on the top of the loop (rope coming from the left lies over end of ropepointing to the right.
2. Make another loop exactly the same a bit further to the right
3. pick up the right hand one of the two loops and put it on top of the left hand loop
4. drop both loops over a chair leg or something and pull tight - a clove hitch without using an end! Very handy when mooring a boat!
Red
bogflogger
19-06-2006, 18:04
Here's a list of the most useful:
1. Round Turn and Two Half Hitches.
2. Reef Knot.
3. Sheet Bend.
4. Bowline.
5. Clove Hitch.
With practice, you will be able to tie all of them using only one hand! (the other one would be holding onto a Mast or Spar.)
Then try:
6. Timber Hitch.
7. Rolling Hitch.
8. Cats Paw.
9. Sheet Shank.
10. Alpine Butterfly (or Artillery Hitch).
11. Triple Bowline.
thanks red and bogflogger
bogflogger
19-06-2006, 18:38
You are welcome Leon.
Just take your time and learn how to tie them one at a time.
But most important, get outside and enjoy yourself! :D
For me at least it's difficult to just learn a knot. It's much easier when you actually need to use it. Although learning the basics is probably a good idea (fig-8, bowline, clove hitch etc), I find the best way is just to learn new ones as you go along and need them. Right now I only ever need to use very few knots. If I get a hammock, or go climbing again then I'll learn some new ones.
So, as with everything, it all comes down to practice. So just go out and do stuff.
wingstoo
19-06-2006, 19:03
Leon b
These are a couple of books I bought for myself...
Knot Know-How...isbn 1-898660-98-0 I think this one was about £3.00
and
Knots & Ropework...isbn 1-84309-146-1 I paid £3.99 from "The Works"
The top one has illustrations in colour of dozens of knots, the lower one uses sequential colour photographs of over 200 tying techniques etc etc...
Try the online book shops...you might get new or second hand ones...
LS
http://www.animatedknots.com/
try these
wingstoo
19-06-2006, 19:36
Cormac...
An excellent link...Very informative and easy step by step animation
LS
Here's my list of knot bookmarks. Sorry if some are repeats of those that have already been mentioned.
I think the constrictor knot's a useful knot - more secure than the clove hitch IMO. The bowline and sheet bend are the knots I use most often. On a side note, isn't it "sheepshank" rather than "sheet shank" or are they different knots or have I just made a Schoolboy Error? :)
http://www.animatedknots.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blake's_hitch
http://www.layhands.com/Knots/Knots_Hitches.htm
http://www.ropeworks.biz/text/arch.html#ANIMATED]
http://www.folsoms.net/knots/
http://www.leadertec.com/tipsandtechniques/knots_index.html
http://www.earlham.edu/%7Epeters/knotlink.htm
http://www.netknots.com/html/outdoor_knots.html
http://www.realknots.com/knots/
http://www.boondoggleman.com/prj_starting_square.htm
http://www.troop7.org/Knots/
2 diff knots one joins ropes of unequal dia
the other is used to take the strain off a worn bit of rope
Ah, as I thought then - sheepshank and sheet bend.
bambodoggy
19-06-2006, 20:56
Just to confuse further, I always thought a Sheet bend joined the two unequel ropes and the sheepshank shortened a rope without cutting it....
Funny old things knots, lots of uses and almost as many names for each type! lol :)
That's as I understood it too bam
what is the diff between the clipper and the Model 740 (old woodlore i think)
richardnhunt
19-06-2006, 21:55
Hi ya
I think it is sheet shank - as in sheets being nautical term for rope controlling a bit of sail (main sheet; jib sheet; etc) As for use - it can be either for shortening a rope or for taking the strain off of a damaged piece. Guess the 2nd came first, but it is just that - a guess
Rich
bambodoggy
19-06-2006, 22:10
See now I'd always thought it was a sheepshank and then somebody said it was in fact a sheetshank for the very reason you said....then somebody else came on and said it was sheepbend because it had something to do with sheep......just can't seem to remember what! lol :lmao:
(EDIT: Found the thread, it's a few posts down: http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community/showthread.php?t=11231&highlight=sheep+shank)
So the consensus is "sheepshank" then, according to that thread.
bambodoggy
20-06-2006, 09:15
Yep....and I'm going back to what I very originally thought before I joined bcuk and saying:
Sheet bend : for joining two unequel lines.
Sheep Shank: for shortening a rope without cutting (or by-passing a worn bit).
Lol..... :D
Bam. :)
bogflogger
20-06-2006, 09:39
The Sheepshank:
http://southseas.nla.gov.au/refs/falc/1177.html
http://www.animatedknots.com/sheepshank/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.j pg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
The Sheet Bend:
http://www.animatedknots.com/sheetbend/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.j pg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
bambodoggy
20-06-2006, 10:01
Thanks BF, that's exactly what I meant.
Love the moving knots pics too....nice site! :)
hi guys thanks for all your help
the clipper seems a better kinfe then the original mora training knife, i had the clipper originally, which was excellent, but i took it to the "isles of scilly" and it rusted loads because of the salt in the air i guess, then i lost it, fell outta my pocket :( , and for some reason i decided to go stainless and bought the original mora, which seemed rather weak compared to the clipper, the blade seems to wobble, after a few sessions of splitting, which the clipper seemed fine at, im going to rehandle it at some point and buy a clipper on top of that, because i prefer carbon steel, but i go to coastal regions alot. What would be the best method of removing the handle??
Cheers,
Alex
rapidboy
22-06-2006, 19:39
It's not that easy Alex, i use mine as a chisel all the time and the handle's never budge.
When my last one was beyond sharpening i decided to see what the tang was like and it was very hard to remove the handle , the plastic is really tough.
In the end i ran it through the band saw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/knives/430_3008_1.jpg
Im almost ready for another :rolleyes:
rb
lol, oh right, i could always melt it off :confused:
Cheers,
Alex
rapidboy
22-06-2006, 20:08
Dremmel or a hack saw
lol so they are strong knives
rapidboy
22-06-2006, 22:23
When i get my next one i will destruction test the old one.
Any requests chime in.
rb
what sort of destuction test ( what are you going to do with it )
British Red
22-06-2006, 22:33
Lawrence,
How about the Kochanski test? Hammer it into a post and stand on it :)
Red
rapidboy
22-06-2006, 22:33
Whatever it takes to destroy it. battoning, levering etc.
rapidboy
22-06-2006, 22:34
Lawrence,
How about the Kochanski test? Hammer it into a post and stand on it :)
Red
Sounds good
yes i have seen the video of some one hammering it into a tree and standing on it he even jumped up and down and it only bent a tiny bit
red i have arranged a date and time to meet fenlander and my mum has also mspoke with him its not long untill the 1st of july
British Red
22-06-2006, 22:45
Leon,
I know mate - not long to practice on your challenge then huh? Best make sure you get that pot stand sorted out - I've tried holding a billy can over the flames - your hand gets too hot :)
Red
lol shall i use mors k method
British Red
22-06-2006, 22:51
I think he shows about 10 - depends which one you want - I think a crane is probably overkill mate
Red
Fenlander
22-06-2006, 22:58
I broke the tang on my Eric Jonsson mora so I ground the blade down from 4.5 inches to three inches to give a new tang and used a piece of Black poplar burl to make a new handle and sheath. Just need some reindeer leather now to finish it off :rolleyes:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e123/sufguy1/P1010252.jpg
PhilParry
22-06-2006, 23:38
It depends on materials you want to use, leather costs about £3.70 for a square foot. If you are making a dangler sheath you will need a D ring as well.
Good heavy grade linen thread can be bought in lengths of about 10 meters, cost is about 85p.
You'll need some contact adhesive (I tend to use PVA, but anything will do).
After that it is time and the design for making one.
So where DO you buy leather for leatherwork from?!?
Can't find any!!! :(
Phil
red i think i will use the first method he shows
So where DO you buy leather for leatherwork from?!?
Can't find any!!! :(
Phil
One place is LeProvo (http://www.leprevo.co.uk/)
Some others:
Traditional Materials (http://www.traditionalmaterials.co.uk/html/leathers.php)
Abbey Saddlery (http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/)
Bowstock (http://www.bowstock.co.uk/index.html)
Hope they help :)
red i just found some birch bark so now i can practise
British Red
23-06-2006, 17:26
Leon,
I'm pleased mate, but this thread is about Clippers - lets keep our other chat on the "List to Learn" thread okay? ;)
Red