Which Axe

[Pappa]

I'm sure this question's been asked before, but the forum search won't let me search for the phrase "which axe", or the word axe.

I'm looking for a small, portable axe, and I was wondering if you could recommend one. I don't mind shelling out a bit more for good quality.

Pappa

[JimH]

I'm sure this question's been asked before, but the forum search won't let me search for the phrase "which axe", or the word axe.

I'm looking for a small, portable axe, and I was wondering if you could recommend one. I don't mind shelling out a bit more for good quality.

Pappa

How portable is portable?

Mini-hatchet (12" long or so, <= 1lb weight) - The GB mini axe is good, and I've heard good things about the Vaughan mini. My GB mini may come up for sale if I've still not used it much by Spring...

Hatchet (bigger, heavier, definition varies) GB wildlife, Wetterlings short hunter(?). I have a host of cheap junkers instead from my Viking reenacting days.

Half axe (GB SFA size ie 20 oz hatchet head on a ~20" handle) I like the SFA, but it *is* just a long handled hatchet. The Wetterlings and Rosellis are also reputedly good, though the Roselli is "non standard".

3/4 axe (GB Scandinavian Forest Axe, about a 2-21/2lb head on a 24" handle)

All small/portable by certain definitions (ie I am aware of bigger axes). A half axe is generally a fair compromise, bit OTT for UK use in fact...I find the mini a bit *too* mini, but I'm a BF&I type...I usually carry a cheap spear and Jackson hatchet that I rehandled...

There's some Swedish army issue axes on ebay at present for a tenner. Swedish people like axes, and my experience of Swedish Army surplus dictates I must buy one. Dunno how big they are...

HTH,

Jim.

[scruff]

if you follow the link on this thread over on BB you'll find a great axe for a amazing price:

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?p=253418#post25 3418

swedish army surplus axe = wetterlings!!

[Pappa]

I've just been looking at the Gransfors Wildlife Hatchet. That's about the size I'm looking for.

[Spikey DaPikey]

Direct link to auction here Click me (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Swedish-Army-Axes_W0QQitemZ8766316017QQcate goryZ16042QQcmdZViewItem)

[tagnut69]

Bugger, they have all gone :cussing:

[Spikey DaPikey]

You could try using the "ask seller a question" link on ebay, and ask if he's geting any more in ??

[tagnut69]

Good point, I realy must switch me brain on sometime today

[Lurch]

I've just been looking at the Gransfors Wildlife Hatchet. That's about the size I'm looking for.

Then you will not be at all dissappointed. Some people like the Wetterlings but if you want a well crafted axe that is great to use then you can't go wrong with GB.
The only potential downside is that there is sometimes a little bit of a wait.
Ask Andrew @ Outdoorcode and he may give you a special price iffin you speak nicely to him - Andrew has supplied me with at least three of my GB axes.

[scruff]

Pappa

If you want to find some independent advice on axes I'd thoroughly recommend these links:

http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=147
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=71

They contain all the comparisons and tests and I found them very informative when I was getting my first axe (which was a Roselli (Long) by the way).

As with most of things try and get a hold of one or two before you buy.

[Hoodoo]

I've just been looking at the Gransfors Wildlife Hatchet. That's about the size I'm looking for.

Then that's the one I would get because it's a wonderful hatchet. I've probably had more fun using that hatchet than any I own.

[Tutchi]

I'm sure this question's been asked before, but the forum search won't let me search for the phrase "which axe", or the word axe.

I'm looking for a small, portable axe, and I was wondering if you could recommend one. I don't mind shelling out a bit more for good quality.

Pappa

Pappa
I have the Wetterling saw 13H and the GB wildlife which are equivalent axes as far as size and apart from price and the GB being sharpest out of the box they are almost identical.

Tutchi
:cool:

[tomtom]

i have to second the Wildlife hatchet vote, i want more axes cos i have a blade addiciton but i just cant come up with a reason to buy any other axe.. try as i might :rolleyes:

[British Red]

I own Gransfors Bruks and Roselli Axes. I don't disagree with any of the other posts, but consider the unusual Roselli all round axe - its different but nice. I posted some piccs if you are interested Here (http://ludlowsurvivors.forumup.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=46&mforum=ludlowsurvivors)

[Pappa]

I think I'm convinced. The GB Wildlife Hatchet it is.

[mrostov]

Myself, I like my Norlund hatchet with the Hudson Bay style head, but they are essentially an antique that you can often find for reasonable prices on Ebay. The Norlund Hudson Bay hatchet has a 3" bit and with the original handle is 12" in overall lenth. They are light and I've found the temper and cutting ability to be superb.

If I were to start off right now from scratch, I'd buy a Gransfors Wildlife Hatchet or a Bark River hatchet if I couldn't quickly find another Norlund. Knives of Alaska makes some good stuff but I think that their hatchet is too small.

For some more info on hatchets for bushcraft and survival and a field test of some hatchets:
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/

Here's a couple of pics on a Norlund for sale right now on Ebay.
http://i18.ebayimg.com/05/i/06/20/66/11_1.JPG
http://i5.ebayimg.com/02/i/06/44/e5/43_1.JPG

Here's a pic of a Bark River hatchet
http://www.outdoors-magazine.com/IMG/jpg/Nessmuk_Forager.jpg

[Topcat02]

Now that is dinky!

[Angus Og]

Been in contact with Chris at www.genuinearmysurplus.co.uk and he has still got 20 of these axes available at the eBay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8766316017&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 ) the price.

If your interested contact Chris at genuinearmysurplus@hotmail.com .

This seller has nothing to do with me I just contacted him to see if he could add another one to my order and found out about the above.

Also been posted on Britishblades

[Pappa]

That Norlund really looks like a proper little chopper. I like it.

[scruff]

Axminster do the Vaugh Hatchet for £20

http://www.axminster.co.uk/name/vaugh/sfile/1/jump/4/product-Vaughan-Hatchet-20445.htm

Also reviewed on Outdoors Magazine - iirc by Old Jimbo

[AJB]

Hi,

Angus beat me to it!

Chris is dead helpful, £15.95 delivered overnight.

His number - 01325 481366

Andy

[oetzi]

May be its somwhat heretic to point at it, but the more I use these:
http://www.udig.de/cgi-bin/cosmoshop/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&wkid=10150&ls=e&nc=1140105032-10253&rubnum=fiskarsgarten.fiskarsax t&artnum=G1155&file=&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--axt
http://www.udig.de/cgi-bin/cosmoshop/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&wkid=10150&ls=e&nc=1140105141-10480&rubnum=&artnum=G1150&file=&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--axe
the more I likethemt :D

[mrostov]

That Vaughan hatchet looks interesting, somewhat like the Bark RIver hatchet.The big hardware stores here have lots of Vaughan hammers and roofing hatchets, but I've never run into one of those.

There is always the Eastwing hatchets. I have a very old Craftsman that I suspect was made by Eastwing, probably in the 1960's. They are almost indestructable but I'm of the opinion that the temper on traditional, forged hatchet heads are better and overall the traditional hatchet weighs less. The knife company, Kershaw, also makes a similar hatchet.

A couple of of the things I like about the Hudson Bay style head is that it's a bit lighter and it's easier to choke up on when dressing out game, like a deer, and when using the hatchet as an ulu style knife.

Evidently, sources on the web have indicated that the Bark River hatchet is really just a Vaughan that they have re-profiled.

Not a lot of people make the Hudson Bay style axes anymore. One of them is a firm up in Maine called Snow & Nealley.
http://www.snowandnealley.com/

Snow & Nealley 18" Penobscot Bay Kindling Axe
http://www.snowandnealley.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/PenobscotBayKindling%20Axe.jpg

[Shinken]

I would go Gransfors, simply because i have spoken to some very experienced axe users who have used most makes of axes and they nearly all say Gransfors..... Good enough for me!

[scanker]

Axminster (http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/6/product-Vaughan-Hatchet-20445.htm) sell a Vaughan hatchet for a few pennies over twenty quid. I haven't got one, but it looks a neat little tool.

[Pappa]

If anyone's interested, there's a Rolson Hatchet on eBay for 99p.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7745169476

[Buckshot]

This is my newest medium axe. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/BCUK/Mark/hawk1.jpg

I also have a small hachet, a slightly larger 24", and a full size felling axe.

[British Red]

This is my newest medium axe. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/BCUK/Mark/hawk1.jpg

I also have a small hachet, a slightly larger 24", and a full size felling axe.

Buckshot vey nice ;) - I'm tempted to say "tomahawk?"...the design is very reminiscent of a couple of tomahawks I have...do you mind if I ask who made that one? :confused:

Red

[Buckshot]

It's a hawk made by Gransfors Bruik (sp)
About the same size as the SFA
Very nice, holds an edge well.
Expensive though.

[rapidboy]

I always believe that you get what you pay for and while the GB's seem expensive at first, in use they really are worth every penny.
GB gets my vote every time.

I have been asked to make a couple of sheath's for the swedish army axe's so i ordered one from genuinearmysurplus and i will try to get some pics up of that beside a GB and compare them as soon as possible.

rb

[British Red]

Well it turned up - here it is

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1588/banko1oi.jpg

I thought I would post a quick review in case anyone is thinking of getting one.

I would describe it as okay, but not great! The head is quite a bit bigger than I thought (about 2 lbs) so heavier than a GB of the same size. Its well fitted to an 18" hickory handle, but finished in nasty blue paint that wants sanding off IMHO and replacing with black enamel or just plain steel. The handle isn't bad, it has a small nick near the heel but thats just cosmetic.

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/5105/headfinish6ob.jpg

Its a middle sized axe - around half sized, but for the wieght of head, I'd be tempted to fit a 6" longer handle when I 've damaged this one (which I'll do sooner or later). That would balance it beautifully for me as a 3/4 axe (my scandy head is the same weight as a SFA and needs half a pound more like this one).

So, its workable now (better for splitting than cutting given the weight IMHO), but could be improved. I've chucked in one more picture for scale - full size (3lb) felling axe at the bottom, from left, 1 1/4lb hatchet, Roselli All round (long) - 18" handle, Riflemans Tomahawk This Swedish job, Scandinavain Forest axe.

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1989/axes5ez.jpg

Hope that helps anyone toying with one

RB, let me know if the covers are cheap and cheerful - I doubt I'll spend a fortune on this one!

(edit for spelling)
Red

[Lurch]

Looks business like anyway, up to the task I'm sure.

[Hoodoo]

I kinda like the looks of that puppy! Very sturdy looking tool! :cool: I wouldn't complain if I had one in the back of my truck. :)

[British Red]

I kinda like the looks of that puppy! Very sturdy looking tool! :cool: I wouldn't complain if I had one in the back of my truck. :)

Hoodoo,

I've seen your blades, don't snow me you would leave this one alone!

Well, I bought it for a friend who needs a bushcraft axe (and I owe him more than one favour so....).

But I don't know about you guys, I'm more fussy about what I give away than what I keep - especially to mates! The edge on this thing was yeurch :( so out with the files and stones.....

we ended up with a nice profile and a proper edge. It did send my girlfriend off to bed :o she hates that "piste " sound of sweeping a blade over the water stones

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/3061/profile2nd.jpg
But once I had done that, I couldn't help looking at that gopping blue paint - it has to go........Out with the wet and dry!

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4836/paintoff4nw.jpg

I know its a rubbish pair of photos, but you get the idea. I''ve cleaned up one side now - and I'm not too sure whether to re-finish in balck or burnish up with wire wool. Theres quite a few forge marks in the head as you can see but personally I don't mind them.

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2878/paintoff20yi.jpg

I'll have that yeurch PU varnish off the handle soon and oil finish it.

Hmmm I might go plain on this one - burnished steel and plain haft - any opinions? I reckon I'm gonna have to go dry though - it really aint going to look right without an RB cover!

Red

[scanker]

That certainly gives me some ideas, Red, thanks.

[Stonedog]

I received my Roselli Long axe last night...havent had a chance to use it as of yet...so all I can say is that this axe absolutley drips quality....but what of Roselli's doesn't?

Also received my Roselli 7" leuku blade and my kellam ak21 blade....also got the butt and pomel caps as well....I have hickory axe handle just begging to be cut up and made into knife handles...

[Shinken]

I got three of the axes from ebay! one was about 2lbs another 1 1/2 lbs and the other was a bit more than 1 1/2 pounds!

A bit of rust on one, but all in all very good for the price (36 quid fir three!)

[British Red]

Well,

I've cleaned the gunk off and re-profiled the blade! Still loads of work to do on dressing the head, but I'm tempted to leave some of the forge marks on the head.

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/6227/strippedhead3xh.jpg

So, we now have a "blank canvas" to work with

http://img320.imageshack.us/img320/6946/stripped4ax.jpg

One piece of good news is that RB is going to make the cover for it (I'm rubbish at leather work) so as a minimum my mate will get a nice cover!!


I'll finish dressing off the head today if I can, and hopefully make a start on the haft. The handle needs a couple of dings filling and all the varnish removing and then progressive sanding back to "silk" before oiling.

Think I may be getting carried away on this, but what price a gift?

Red

[OldJimbo]

Nice job! If you smooth out the ramps up to the eye well with a sanding pad so that they're even and polished as much as possible, then you are going to be very impressed with that axe for both chopping and splitting.
It would look great with a scorched (fire hardened) handle, but best to leave that until varnish has been removed for quite a while. Handles now tend not to be dried properly, and scorching with a propane torch could lead to cracks.
I don't believe that you're getting too carried away - a fine axe that will split wood as well as chop it, is a wonderful tool.

[soup_monger]

Thats looking good Britishred.
I've not touched mine yet, but, the head profile you've got there looks about right.
I'm planning on flattening the head on mine straight across the top to make it a bit lighter and shorter for the rucksack.
Good job mate.



Thats some size of dog your using as an axe rest.... :)

[British Red]

Weird,

tried to post a link to how its progressing - seems to have got lost :confused:

Aah well lets try again

I think the blade is as clean as I can get it now - there remain some forge marks on the cheeks and shoulders, but I don't want to remove the amount of metal it will take to polish them out

http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/1416/cleanblade4tw.jpg

So, is that good enough for Jimbo? ;)

Soupy..more flat than large :lmao:

Stonedog - I was chopping kindling with mine the other night - I reduced about 20 logs to sticks for the pure pleasure of the Roselli - knocks spots off my GBs

Right - back to sanding off varnish....he'd better like this thing :lmao:
Red

[OldJimbo]

Looks good to me. The proof is in splitting a block by gentle tapping with a baton. Does it go much more smoothly than a person would expect, and the block pop apart? Rough or irregular sections of the ramp soon show up if they are present.

[British Red]

Looks good to me. The proof is in splitting a block by gentle tapping with a baton. Does it go much more smoothly than a person would expect, and the block pop apart? Rough or irregular sections of the ramp soon show up if they are present.

Didn't want to scank the cheeks so stuck to holding the poll and shaving feather sticks ;) they worked fine!

Seriously though, thanks for the advice, she's slippery smooth now and ground to a finer angle than as sent! The paint is long gone and there a new blade profile. All varnish has left the handle and I've put a soak on to raise the grain. Overnight I'll laquer the blade (yeah I know you hate the idea but the guy its for has a rust phobia). Tomorrow will be second laquer coat and haft finishing - piccs to follow (all masked upright now)

Red

[OldJimbo]

I'm sure that your friend will get over rust phobia in time. The important part is that you've created something both good looking and effective. That's certainly something to be proud of, for a long time!

[British Red]

I'm sure that your friend will get over rust phobia in time. The important part is that you've created something both good looking and effective. That's certainly something to be proud of, for a long time!
Jimbo mate you are good for my ego!

I wish I could create an axe - I'm capable of "tidying" or in extremes "restoring". It takes a a better man than me to "create"

Red

[British Red]

Well, the heads about done, the haft wants a few more coats of oil but that won't change the look much. Here she is:

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1853/finishedhead5zz.jpg

You can see the line near the bevel left by masking the laquer :( , still its not for me

For anyone who wants to see the whole job - here it is

http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/6231/finishedaxe9ny.jpg

I'll keep rubbing oil in till RB works his artistry on a cover for her - then she wends her way down to Devon. Its a strange thing isn't it when you put a lot of yourself into something.... I'll be sad to see her go :( Happy though cos shes going to a good home :D

Still after about :tapedshut hours work, she's nearly good enough to knock about in the tray of Hoodoos truck :lmao:

Still worth the £10 you reckon?

Red

[OldJimbo]

It's sure an improvement on what you started from! When you add up the hours of work - don't forget that experience is worth a lot, too.

[British Red]

It's sure an improvement on what you started from! When you add up the hours of work - don't forget that experience is worth a lot, too.
Too true mate - Life is a lesson and I'm a fairly poor pupil! Thanks for all your encouragement though. The money doesn't matter - I don't bushcraft for money. I work to pay to spend time on things that cant be bought!

[Spikey DaPikey]

Im gonna havta depaint mine and oil the handle now as well, that looks really good :)

I dont know how to reprofile the edge tho, so i may just leave that alone....

Nice work :)

[British Red]

Im gonna havta depaint mine and oil the handle now as well, that looks really good :)

I dont know how to reprofile the edge tho, so i may just leave that alone....

Nice work :)
Spikey,

You got a coarse and fine metal file? If so, I'll talk you through it. You'll need some way of finishing the edge at the end though, water stones are great but B&Q oil stone (around £10) work well too!

The way I saw this one is its a cheap axe worth the work. If it goes wrong, you wont have lost much. Its worth it - go on - jump in - give it a go

Red

[scanker]

I'd be interested to hear about reprofiling, Red. I've already started on removing the paint!

[jason01]

Nice job Red :D I'm in the middle of going at mine with an angle grinder :rolleyes:

[British Red]

Nice job Red :D I'm in the middle of going at mine with an angle grinder :rolleyes:
Skanker,

A few questions then,

Are you going to use hand tools or power?

Are you looking for a major change to the blade profile or just to tidy and improve?

Do you have a use in mind for the axe? The one I've done for tim is profiled as a "splitter" rather than a "cutter". I'll try to get a higher resolution pic of the profile posted to show wht I've done.

BTW, I'd get Jason's advice rather than mine - I have one his steels and its a work of art so if his axe come up like that it'll be beautiful!

Anyway, if you let me know what you are looking to achieve, I'm sure people on here more knowledgeable than me will jump right in too!

Red

[SMARTY]

it arrived on tuesday. 24" Hudson Bay Camping Axe by Snow & Neally. I couldn't find a UK distributor so ordered it from th US. www.forestry-suppliers.com. I ordered it in December so it took a while. Including postage total cost $65.i have used the SFA, handles a touch short for me. I plan to thrash the new axe next week end. Will report then on its performance.

[British Red]

Smarty,

Before you do, could bung a few pictures on please? I'd love to see a close up of the face and one from the top showing the blade profile if you could manage it! Always like to get to know a new axe!

Red

[soup_monger]

I second that request for photos of the Snow & Nealley Hudson Bay Camping axe.
Close ups would be great.

[scanker]

Red: Just a general tidy up really. I don't have an angle grinder, so it would have to be with a file.

I'll probably use it more for splitting, but I don't suppose I'll be able to change the profile much with just a file. TBH I might not be able to do much more than remove the paint and varnish and give it a good sharpen, but I'd be interested to know what could be achieved.

[jason01]

Skanker,

A few questions then,

Are you going to use hand tools or power?

Are you looking for a major change to the blade profile or just to tidy and improve?

Do you have a use in mind for the axe? The one I've done for tim is profiled as a "splitter" rather than a "cutter". I'll try to get a higher resolution pic of the profile posted to show wht I've done.

BTW, I'd get Jason's advice rather than mine - I have one his steels and its a work of art so if his axe come up like that it'll be beautiful!

Anyway, if you let me know what you are looking to achieve, I'm sure people on here more knowledgeable than me will jump right in too!

Red

Cheers mate :D firesteels are one thing but axes ;) I dont know much about! I can tell you theres a lot of rubbing involved in working on an axe :rolleyes: , without power tools it could be quite a soul destroying task! The paint will come off easily enough with a wire disk but mine was quite unevenly ground underneath the paint and didnt look very good stripped. Ive taken off quite a bit of metal to get to this stage and theres plenty more hand rubbing left to do.

http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/axe1.jpg

Red, did you use something to stain your handle before oiling? It looks great!

[British Red]

Cheers mate :D firesteels are one thing but axes ;) I dont know much about! I can tell you theres a lot of rubbing involved in working on an axe :rolleyes: , without power tools it could be quite a soul destroying task! The paint will come off easily enough with a wire disk but mine was quite unevenly ground underneath the paint and didnt look very good stripped. Ive taken off quite a bit of metal to get to this stage and theres plenty more hand rubbing left to do.

http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/axe1.jpg

Red, did you use something to stain your handle before oiling? It looks great!

Jason, no mate I didn't stain it. It a bit embarassing. A while back when re-finishing a handle I ran out of oil. All I had was olive or....sesame oil! I thought "give it a go". It smells fantatstic (the sesame oil) and really lifts the colours of wood up. Plus its cheap and available in Sainsburys. I have been using it ever since. I even oil blades with it. I have the nicest smelling axes in the woods! :o

Red

[British Red]

Red: Just a general tidy up really. I don't have an angle grinder, so it would have to be with a file.

I'll probably use it more for splitting, but I don't suppose I'll be able to change the profile much with just a file. TBH I might not be able to do much more than remove the paint and varnish and give it a good sharpen, but I'd be interested to know what could be achieved.

Scanker,

No problem mate. I did mine by hand (I have an angle grinder but I'm better with hand tools - did mine with a file and water stones).

So, what you want to achieve is a blade that is perfectly in line with the handle and completely straight. I clamp the ace head in a vice (between two soft pieces of wood to save marking the blade) with the cutting edge uppermost. now you need to do this so you can "sight" along the edge. Also have the haft pointing away from you (or you will keep jabbing it in your chest or gut when working). Look along the blade and see if it is straight and in line. If not (and it isn't I bet), take up your file. Hold the end in your left hand and the handle in your right. Use lonf sweeping strokes on the area of the blade you want to modify. Just imagine you are gently "pushing" metal in the direction you want it to go, If the edge is shoved out right in a spot, file from that side and "push" (remove) the metal. Be sure to also check the centre of the blade edge you are creating is in line with the haft. On my splitting edge I like a convex grind so whilst filing I relax the top hand in a rolling motion.

When all this is done and you are going to finish it, get an old bit of carbon paper and put it on a piece of plain white paper. One clean "rock" forward of the axe edge should draw a straight line. If it doesn't (and it wont), it shows a dip in the blade. If you have no carbon paper, put ink on the blade edge - that works too. Its not like you are going to make things worse - go slow and easy and finish up with an oil or water stone

Did I miss anything Jason?

Red

[jason01]

Scanker,
Did I miss anything Jason?

Red

Sounds good to me, I'm making notes!

[scanker]

Excellent instructions, thanks fellas. I've already taken "before" photos, so I'll be able to show progress.

:)

[scruff]

After purchasing one of these in the first batch (mines a Wetterlings :p ) i've been reading this and thinking about giving it some tlc. Its already been touched up to a good edge but I only removed as much paint as needed.

Very nice work Red and Jason01. Your tips will be very helpful :thanks: :approve:

I did wonder though (maybe I missed it) but has anyone taken a look under the wax yet??

I've always been a bit suspect of axes, hammers etc 'topped off' like this as you can never tell how far or well its been 'hafted'. Is it covering up any ugly mistakes?

[AJB]

I always believe that you get what you pay for and while the GB's seem expensive at first, in use they really are worth every penny.
GB gets my vote every time.

I have been asked to make a couple of sheath's for the swedish army axe's so i ordered one from genuinearmysurplus and i will try to get some pics up of that beside a GB and compare them as soon as possible.

rb


Hi RB,

I succumbed to one of these axes too and, as the plastic guard that it comes with broke the first time I took it off, I thought I would design a sheath for it.

Having never done anything like it before I’ve made a pattern out of paper which I think is brilliant, but it is probably wholly impractical to make it out of leather.

If possible, please could you post a picture of an axe sheath you have made before, so I could get some tips on how a master would tackle the problem?

Ta

AJB

[British Red]

After purchasing one of these in the first batch (mines a Wetterlings :p ) i've been reading this and thinking about giving it some tlc. Its already been touched up to a good edge but I only removed as much paint as needed.

Very nice work Red and Jason01. Your tips will be very helpful :thanks: :approve:

I did wonder though (maybe I missed it) but has anyone taken a look under the wax yet??

I've always been a bit suspect of axes, hammers etc 'topped off' like this as you can never tell how far or well its been 'hafted'. Is it covering up any ugly mistakes?
No, And I should have <blushing>. I'm tied up all week, so if you hook yours out can you post a pic?

Red

[British Red]

Excellent instructions, thanks fellas. I've already taken "before" photos, so I'll be able to show progress.

:)
Excellent - stick the befores up and a few work in progresses if you can - I'm loving this - how many other forums would a group of people all do the same task without it becoming a competition :confused:

(By the way Jason is ahead on points for grinding out the forge marks :togo: )

[soup_monger]

(By the way Jason is ahead on points for grinding out the forge marks :togo: )


Now you gone and done it BR :rolleyes:

[British Red]

Now you gone and done it BR :rolleyes:
:buttkick: :buttkick:

Yeah I know, I know...but the only person he is beating is.......me (and being old and slow, I'm used to it)!

:nana: :nana:

[scruff]

No, And I should have <blushing>. I'm tied up all week, so if you hook yours out can you post a pic?

Red

I'll try...try being the operative word as my digi cam is 'annoying' me.

ps. he's only winning in your eyes....some of us may like a forged finish :)

[British Red]

I'll try...try being the operative word as my digi cam is 'annoying' me.

ps. he's only winning in your eyes....some of us may like a forged finish :)
Looking forward to seeing the others - mine is errrm "workmanlike", but at least better than the gopping blue paint! I look forward to seeing yours! Check out the damascus axes on another thread though wow! Trouble is of course I would be scared to use em

[scruff]

Looking forward to seeing the others - mine is errrm "workmanlike", but at least better than the gopping blue paint! I look forward to seeing yours! Check out the damascus axes on another thread though wow! Trouble is of course I would be scared to use em

I'd revel at the pleasure of being able to weild one of those works of art....and really make the most of it. They are pretty darn amazing.

I started trying to chip out that red 'stuff' in the eye last night but was getting no where fast. It sure ain't wax or paint (I think) its some kind of plastic :confused:

Looks like it may take a while to get to clean it out.

I'll keep you informed.

[themac]

After watching this thread I felt the need to buy an axe, odd as I have manged all my life without one so far :)

Would Nitromors or similar be ok to use on the axe head? Not really knowing anything about metal/tempers etc etc I have no idea if the chemical would cause some issue.

Cheers

[British Red]

After watching this thread I felt the need to buy an axe, odd as I have manged all my life without one so far :)

Would Nitromors or similar be ok to use on the axe head? Not really knowing anything about metal/tempers etc etc I have no idea if the chemical would cause some issue.

Cheers
Themac,

The one I cleaned up earlier was done with wet and dry in front of the tv (Fiona is understanding). Ordinary coarse sandpaper will clean paint off too - an electric sander or angle grinder are also good. Nitromors would be okay, but beware contact with the glue anchoring the head to the haft unless you are prepared to re-seat and re haft (which would mean destroying the existing haft)

Red

[scruff]

Okay I got going at trying to remove the 'red stuff' in the socket last night.

If any one else is considering I'd say dont!

Its turning out to be a bit of a mission. So far I haven't used any power tools yet so its been a bit slow. My Black & Decker/Dremel thingy went *poof* on me last week which is a real shame 'cos I could have really done with it for this job.

Anyway I've been using an old Frosts Crook knife to try and get some of the stuff out and its a time consuming process. The stuff is really quite hard, and doesn't melt or ignite easily. I tried to burn a shaving or two to see what would happen.

I'm currently about 6.5mm down and no sign of the wood yet.

Will keep you posted.

[soup_monger]

6.5mm?? Oh dear. :(
Thanks for the tip though Scruff and let us know when/if you hit wood.
I see a re hafting job on the horizon.

[rapidboy]

Mine arrived today, bigger than i expected.
Here it is beside a GB SFA.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/knives/444_4477_1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v76/rapidboy1/knives/444_4475_1.jpg

I havent tried it yet but i expect it to split very well.
When i have time i will remove the paint and tidy it up but for the money it's great.
My edge is nice and straight, not a razor like a GB but it shouldn't take much to sort it out.

rb

[jason01]

Must admit Im impressed with mine, takes a shaving sharp edge very easily though Ive now ground the edge on mine back while Im working on it so will have to sharpen all over again! It's a bit bigger than I really need as I think Red said its like a small size felling axe but the heavy head also works well for fine work IMO. With a good edge on it if you get your hand right up to the top the heavy head will do all the work for you for shaping a spoon or whatever and allows very good control.

TBH this little fella has been fine for my bushcraft needs for years, looks daft next to the Banko though lol but much less painful to carry!

http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/axes2.jpg

Just a note to say I dont know why the litle one looks so battered in the pic, the haft hasnt been knocked around or anything although it is over 30 years old and very dry so does need replacing it isnt actually abused under the head as it appears in the picture ;)

Though when I think of the state of some of the axes Ive used on farms :rolleyes: over the years, these were owned by people that heated their homes with wood and used these loose headed things passing for axes with no edge every day not like us w/e bushcrafters, how did they manage ;) I spose splitting logs for the stove is not all that demanding of the tool as long as its heavy and tapered!

Has anyone else noticed a distinct area of hardness extending about 2 1/2" back from the edge on the Banko, wouldnt be surprised if it would produce a hamon.

[British Red]

Must admit Im impressed with mine, takes a shaving sharp edge very easily though Ive now ground the edge on mine back while Im working on it so will have to sharpen all over again! It's a bit bigger than I really need as I think Red said its like a small size felling axe but the heavy head also works well for fine work IMO. With a good edge on it if you get your hand right up to the top the heavy head will do all the work for you for shaping a spoon or whatever and allows very good control.

TBH this little fella has been fine for my bushcraft needs for years, looks daft next to the Banko though lol but much less painful to carry!

http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/axes2.jpg

Just a note to say I dont know why the litle one looks so battered in the pic, the haft hasnt been knocked around or anything although it is over 30 years old and very dry so does need replacing it isnt actually abused under the head as it appears in the picture ;)

Though when I think of the state of some of the axes Ive used on farms :rolleyes: over the years, these were owned by people that heated their homes with wood and used these loose headed things passing for axes with no edge every day not like us w/e bushcrafters, how did they manage ;) I spose splitting logs for the stove is not all that demanding of the tool as long as its heavy and tapered!

Has anyone else noticed a distinct area of hardness extending about 2 1/2" back from the edge on the Banko, wouldnt be surprised if it would produce a hamon.
Jason,

Aww it pupped lol

Is that haft loose on the little un? If not, why not give it an oil bath? Get a waste paper bin and stand the axe in (head upwards). Fill with vegetable oil to just below the head. The wood will soak it right up. Finish off with wire wool. Or just do what I do - J cloth covered in your oil of choice and kept in the living room with the oil (in a ziplock bag for smell). Keep the axe there too and wipe over every time you pass it.

Not to be done with teak oil or linssed oil though - the rag can catch fire if not washed out after use (I use sesame and its fine)

Red

[soup_monger]

Thats quite a polish job you've done on the Banko jason, looks great.
I like the scorched handle too.
I'm still removing lumps of steel from mine. :D

[jason01]

Jason,

Aww it pupped lol

Is that haft loose on the little un? If not, why not give it an oil bath? Get a waste paper bin and stand the axe in (head upwards). Fill with vegetable oil to just below the head. The wood will soak it right up. Finish off with wire wool. Or just do what I do - J cloth covered in your oil of choice and kept in the living room with the oil (in a ziplock bag for smell). Keep the axe there too and wipe over every time you pass it.

Not to be done with teak oil or linssed oil though - the rag can catch fire if not washed out after use (I use sesame and its fine)

Red

Its not loose Red but its so dry I think its past saving and its cracked at the lower end, I might give it a soak though to keep it going for a bit longer as Im not sure when I'll get round to re hafting, I have another old un waiting for a new haft but its nothing special and has been superseded by the Banko now :) Ive given the Banko some sesame oil and it does smell nice ;) back onto coating it with linseed now though, I do like linseed! I think Im going to get it sopping wet today and wrap it with cling film as I have a roll of container wrap lying around the stuff they bind pallets with. You can always keep linseed soaked cloths in a jam jar, works for french polish rubbers too :)


Thats quite a polish job you've done on the Banko jason, looks great.
I like the scorched handle too.
I'm still removing lumps of steel from mine. :D

Its quite a job isnt it! Look forward to seeing it finished :) I think our Banko's will be rarer than Wetterlings ;)

Only trouble is, now Ive got one decent axe I fancy another small one in a similar style to keep it company and a carving axe :D

[themac]

Jason - the finish on the axe head looks almost brushed? What did you use to finish it off?

Cheers

[jason01]

Jason - the finish on the axe head looks almost brushed? What did you use to finish it off?

Cheers

Themac,

Its just hand rubbed working through the abrasive grades and finished in one direction with a fairly coarse abrasive, 180 grit emery cloth at the moment, the photo is quite flattering though and if I was going for a perfect finish I should really spend some more time at 120, there are a few marks still just visible underneath from the coarser grits but, and this is an awful thing to say :rolleyes: I think its good enough for me for now ;)

Its exactly the same principle as finishing a knife blade, start with a coarse grit, get an even finish, move to the next grit working at 90 degrees to the previous and rub until all the marks from the previous grade are gone and so on as far as you want to go until eventually you would have a mirror finish :D Its also important to use a block with a flat surface under the abrasive, dont be tempted to use your fingers or the paper will just follow any surface uneveness and/or you'll rub a valleys into it.

Wet and dry would be just as good and is what I normally use, the main thing is to make sure you have a nice even surface to start with, if you use an angle grinder for example its easy to create dips and ramps on the surface which will stand out at the end, trick is to keep the grinder light and moving.

[British Red]

Themac,

Its just hand rubbed working through the abrasive grades and finished in one direction with a fairly coarse abrasive, 180 grit emery cloth at the moment, the photo is quite flattering though and if I was going for a perfect finish I should really spend some more time at 120, there are a few marks still just visible underneath from the coarser grits but, and this is an awful thing to say :rolleyes: I think its good enough for me for now ;)

Its exactly the same principle as finishing a knife blade, start with a coarse grit, get an even finish, move to the next grit working at 90 degrees to the previous and rub until all the marks from the previous grade are gone and so on as far as you want to go until eventually you would have a mirror finish :D Its also important to use a block with a flat surface under the abrasive, dont be tempted to use your fingers or the paper will just follow any surface uneveness and/or you'll rub a valleys into it.

Wet and dry would be just as good and is what I normally use, the main thing is to make sure you have a nice even surface to start with, if you use an angle grinder for example its easy to create dips and ramps on the surface which will stand out at the end, trick is to keep the grinder light and moving.
Hey Jason,

Are you getting a cover or making one? I wimped out and went to the professionals (RB is doing me one - looks lurvley). If you want to compare finished articles, swing past the Daves place over March 30th - April 1st weekend - I'll be handing Tims over to him there - we could compare finished products!

Red

[jason01]

Hey Jason,

Are you getting a cover or making one? I wimped out and went to the professionals (RB is doing me one - looks lurvley). If you want to compare finished articles, swing past the Daves place over March 30th - April 1st weekend - I'll be handing Tims over to him there - we could compare finished products!

Red

If we're going to compare up close I'll definately have to go back to the 120 grit ;)

I've got no excuse not to make my own sheath, just need to get round to it :rolleyes: I might just hang on to see a photo of what RB comes up with first though, not that I'd steal his design or anything ;) if I can make one that looks half as good as RB's usual leatherwork I'll be happy.

A meetup at Daves sounds good, count me in, all being well! I'll drop you a PM and we'll sort something out :D

[British Red]

Well, RBs sheath turned up today....and I'm delighted with it - cheers mate!. I opted for the plain strap as I see this as a "functional" piece of kit for my friend rather than "pretty"

So, here it is

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/981/finishedarticle5lz.jpg

Not as neatly finished as Jason's and, I'm sure, not as well done as other peoples will be either. But, I venture to suggest, a modest improvement over the blue paint and varnished version with the red plastic blade cover

Look forward to seeing other peoples

Red

[jason01]

Well, RBs sheath turned up today....and I'm delighted with it - cheers mate!. I opted for the plain strap as I see this as a "functional" piece of kit for my friend rather than "pretty"

So, here it is

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/981/finishedarticle5lz.jpg

Not as neatly finished as Jason's and, I'm sure, not as well done as other peoples will be either. But, I venture to suggest, a modest improvement over the blue paint and varnished version with the red plastic blade cover

Look forward to seeing other peoples

Red

Looks great to me, Tim should be delighted with that!

[scruff]

Nice work Red.

I really must get round to finishing mine off this weekend. So many jobs keep popping up!

Saya repair this week.

[soup_monger]

That looks great BR, well done! :)
And to think thats a £10 axe and a lot of elbow grease.
It's new owner is a lucky man.
Cheers



P.S I'm still working on mine,but,I'll post pics when I'm happy with it. ;)

[weekend_warrior]

More of these axes (banko version?) available on Ebay I see...

[rapidboy]

Turned out great Red.

I see Chris is selling a few over on BB now.
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17835

rb

[jason01]

Finally got round to making a sheath, Ive been limited to gentle jobs for the past couple of weeks due to a cracked rib :rolleyes: so it seemed like a good opportunity to do some leatherwork.

The sheath went horribly wrong, originaly had a closed back end but it was a bit too tight, Ive managed to salvage it and it works ok but Im not really all that happy with it for a varity of reasons, might have to make another.

http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/sheath.jpg

[pierre girard]

Looks like a perfectly good job, and I wouldn't be the least bit displeased with it.

Where did you get the stud for closure?

PG

[jason01]

Looks like a perfectly good job, and I wouldn't be the least bit displeased with it.

Where did you get the stud for closure?

PG

Hi Pierre

Funnily enough I only just tracked them down myself, I much prefer them to press studs. Got them from here:

http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/

Half the battle was finding out what theyre called, screw backed I think theyre Chicago studs and rivet backed theyre sam brown studs, you can also get them with solid backs to peen over a rivet.

Also check out this thread

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18202

[British Red]

Cracking job Jason - I see why you put the blowtorch over the haft now - looks good. The cover is quirky and I like it. Part of the point of this for me was to have a stress free experiment - I'm tempted to get another and play with haft length too - I think it would balance nice on a 20" haft. Anyway - hope the rib doesn't stop you popping into the meet at Daves place? Weekend of the 1st !

Red

[jason01]

Cracking job Jason - I see why you put the blowtorch over the haft now - looks good. The cover is quirky and I like it. Part of the point of this for me was to have a stress free experiment - I'm tempted to get another and play with haft length too - I think it would balance nice on a 20" haft. Anyway - hope the rib doesn't stop you popping into the meet at Daves place? Weekend of the 1st !

Red

Should be fine by then BR and with any luck I'll have made a new sheath too ;) I really do like these axes, wish I could get a smaller one in the same style for the same price!

[jason01]

Right thats it, this is version 2 :rolleyes: and Im not making anymore!


http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/axesheath2.jpg

Im satisfied with this one, but if I was making it again I'd use thicker leather, just didnt want to waste my best stuff experimenting!

[soup_monger]

Great sheath Jason. :)
I'm still reducing the size of the £10 Wetterling and then I'm going to re haft it.
The poll is much harder than the rest of the head on my one.
Heavy going with a file.
It'll be ready for the summer at this rate. :rolleyes:

[scruff]

I'm working at a snails pace on mine too!

That epoxy stuff they put in the eye goes over an inch or so. Its so hard it kept on draining the battery on my rechargable drill.

I'll definitely be reshafting it as I think its far too head heavy.

Had half a hide delivered today. I'm gonna see if I can figure out a Roselli Styleee sheath tonight (minus the buckle - haven't found one yet)

[jason01]

Even with a load of powertools at hand I spent a good many hours grinding away, its not a quick job by any means but it will be worth it for the satisfaction once youve done. The Banko was relatively soft except for the edge, there was a very distinct hard zone extending about 1 3/4" inches back from the edge.

Scruff, I'm surprised the resin is so deep, shame they didnt take the haft all the way through the eye, still I guess theyll probably hold up ok, Im not pulling mine apart unless it comes loose. I do agree theyre a bit head heavy.

I still think theyre a great axe for the money but I doubt mine will get much use, its just too big for most of my axe needs atm. After Ive spent all this time working on it, it will probably end up sitting in a cupboard until i get my smallholding in the woods with a real fire and I'll carry on using one of my smaller cheap axes for bushcraft :rolleyes:

[scruff]

I was VERY surprised about the resin but I think its safe to say that the head is secure. Maybe its common practice for some axes, military spec for these ones in particular.

I certainly wouldn't recommend anyone having a go at removing it.

Pity it won't be a user after all that work, it looks splendid (as does Reds). I guess the enjoyment in these projects is as much in 'doing' them as it is in using them :confused:

For me its a lesson in patience! and a good test of my leather skills (or lack of 'em!)

Can't wait to see Soup's job!

[spamel]

We have quite large felling axes in the G1098 store. The shaft comes all the way through the head and is wedged with a wooden wedge and metal thingy running across ways. Get this though, it costs more in man hours to replace a shaft, demanding it, then the delivery process, removing old shaft and fitting new, so they get binned and demand a whole new axe!! This is the same for shovels. I got a load of new shovels in and the tee piece on the handle came off of one after a day on site. I said I'd have a go at fixing it and my boss said don't bother, demand a new one!! It's just great how tax payers money is wasted by the forces!!

[scruff]

Madness!

You should buy 'em all up, fix 'em n sell 'em off on ebay as "Bushcraft Shovels".

Stay safe m8

[scruff]

Here's my (feeble) attempt at a sheath. Apologies for poop photo's :o

It only took twenty minutes so I'm pleased and it does the job very well. The design is adaptable if I get hold of a buckle but I probably won't bother as it seems to work well.

'tis (very) loosely based on the Roselli Axe sheath but this axe doesn't lend itself to the idea quite so well.

[jason01]

Here's my (feeble) attempt at a sheath. Apologies for poop photo's :o

It only took twenty minutes so I'm pleased and it does the job very well. The design is adaptable if I get hold of a buckle but I probably won't bother as it seems to work well.

'tis (very) loosely based on the Roselli Axe sheath but it does this axe doesn't lend itself to the idea quite so well.

Looks good mate :D

Have just finished wet forming mine, stiffened it up with hot water, oiled the outside and coated the inside with shellac.

From our original £10 investment I wonder how much money (in man hours) we've spent on em? :lmao: I wouldnt like to try and make a living refurbishing axes ;) Spamel, your story is not unusual in todays throw away society where man hours are so expensive, anything done by hand costs a packet and mass produced stuff gets cheaper and cheaper.

[British Red]

Looks great mate - I like it! Don't knock it - I had to get RB to make mine

Red

[scruff]

Cheers guys.


From our original £10 investment I wonder how much money (in man hours) we've spent on em?

Well I dare say you've spent more time than Red and I put together! :D

I'm still to make mine all shiny...it can wait till I've finished cleaning the eye out though. I had to shove the head back on for the piccies.

I'd love to see your finished sheath...is this no. 3 now? ;)

[jason01]

Cheers guys.



Well I dare say you've spent more time than Red and I put together! :D

I'm still to make mine all shiny...it can wait till I've finished cleaning the eye out though. I had to shove the head back on for the piccies.

I'd love to see your finished sheath...is this no. 3 now? ;)

Well it was satisfying to do and Im happy with the result in the end, but to keep it in perspective as I think Red said you certainly gain respect for the guys that make axes from scratch. You've taken on the biggest job of all in rehafting yours, Ive only buffed mine up a bit :)

My finished sheath (still no. 2 ;) ) doesnt look much different from my last pic, its just a bit darker and stiffer, here it is next to the little Estwing I based it on.

http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/sheaths.jpg

It pales in comparison to the one Longstrider made for his GB, he posted a link to it in the carrying an axe thread.

[scruff]

That looks really great mate :35:

Its come up/out a lovely colour.

Your right about respecting the guys who make 'em or any of the sharps and leather items for that matter.

I find alot of the work on here's a real inspiration :grouphug: :thanks:

[soup_monger]

Just to let you know that I have managed to remove the haft from my £10 Wetterling and I was surprised to find that there wasn't a wedge of any description. :confused:

It took a lot of drilling, grinding and pounding to get the resin and wood out of the eye,so I reckon (as Scruff said) that it will stay pretty secure,but,it's still weird.

I think that the resin acts as a cap on top of the wood so I guess that cuts down on production cost.

To show what I mean,here is the head beyond the resin and before I drilled out the wood....

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d104/fergus2468/IMG_0798.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d104/fergus2468/IMG_0797.jpg

[SMARTY]

Its here, its tested, it passed. The Snow & Neally Hudson Bay camping axe I mean. Got it a couple of weeks ago from the US.
Took it to the woods for a test drive. I found the 24" handle better to work with than the 18" on the GB. It arrived ground but not sharp. A few minutes with the chain saw file sorted that. I will post some photos when I work out how to do it.
From a personal point of view I like it and the GB will go to my son or onto Ebay.
On the down side still cant find a UK dealer for S&N axes.



Survial Matters

[soup_monger]

Thanks for the update Smarty,
A couple of questions if you don't mind... :)
How long is the head from blade to poll? and
Where did you get yours?

[British Red]

Smarty,

Thanks for the update! Could you let us know how much it was including shipping when you post the piccs please?

Many Thanks - Red

[scruff]

Just to let you know that I have managed to remove the haft from my £10 Wetterling and I was surprised to find that there wasn't a wedge of any description. :confused:

It took a lot of drilling, grinding and pounding to get the resin and wood out of the eye,so I reckon (as Scruff said) that it will stay pretty secure,but,it's still weird.

I think that the resin acts as a cap on top of the wood so I guess that cuts down on production cost.

To show what I mean,here is the head beyond the resin and before I drilled out the wood....

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d104/fergus2468/IMG_0798.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d104/fergus2468/IMG_0797.jpg

Isn't it such fun removing the head (NOT!)

How far down did you go before you got to the haft? I got 28mm or 1" 2/20.

There was no wedge for me either (mines a Wetterlings too).

Do you have any piccies of the reshaped head?


Smarty - Its good that you've found an axe, a break from the norm and one which suits you. I never went with the GB, I just couldn't get on with the shape of the haft. Only got this axe cos it was cheap. Hope it gives you many years of service.

[soup_monger]

I had to go about the same depth as you Scruff and I'll be picking bits of that Resin up for years to come,it wen't everywhere.
You can just make out the wood in the pics I posted,
I'll post some photos up of the head later as I'm off to try and find a replacement handle :rolleyes:
It's turning out nice though. :)

[SMARTY]

Sorry for the delay, been out playing. Answers are:

blade length, face to poll = 17 cm
Supplier- Forestry suppliers Inc, (www.forestry-suppliers.com)
cost $43.50
shipping (air mail from US) $33.75
Total Cost $77.25 (thats about £44)


Worth it for a "top tool"

[leon-1]

Well it was satisfying to do and Im happy with the result in the end, but to keep it in perspective as I think Red said you certainly gain respect for the guys that make axes from scratch. You've taken on the biggest job of all in rehafting yours, Ive only buffed mine up a bit :)

My finished sheath (still no. 2 ;) ) doesnt look much different from my last pic, its just a bit darker and stiffer, here it is next to the little Estwing I based it on.

http://www.jasonbhall.freeserve.co.uk/sheaths.jpg

It pales in comparison to the one Longstrider made for his GB, he posted a link to it in the carrying an axe thread.

That's ironic, I had just been asked to do a new axe sheath for this

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/5239/estwing11nl.jpg

It has had a little work done on it now and is nearly ready for the off.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/2623/estwing21ap.jpg

It was quite hard work, but I thought that the axe might benefit from a little clean up as well.

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/6720/estwing38zy.jpg

Quite hard work on the fingers working on this thickness of leather though.

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/8710/estwing43cj.jpg

Ultimately though I think it was worth it, I just hope that the guy I have done it for will like the end result (there are still a couple of layers of Varnish for the handle to do and I have to apply a metal laquer for the head.

[British Red]

Ultimately though I think it was worth it, I just hope that the guy I have done it for will like the end result (there are still a couple of layers of Varnish for the handle to do and I have to apply a metal laquer for the head.

Leon mate, if he doesn't like it, there will be a disorderly queue of those who do - headed by me ;) ! I was going to post an article this afternoon on re-dressing a hatchet, but I'm embarassed to post it now given the beauty of that job. :o

Fantatstic work mate!

Red

[soup_monger]

Seconded,
Thats a great restoration job Leon.
When you say "a little work" do you mean ,hours of wet n dry or attacking it with the buffing wheel....or both.. :D

[jason01]

Great job Leon :D I still dont really rate those Estwings as users though! But theyre tough and they do look pretty :)

[leon-1]

Guys, the hatchet had been bought a long time ago and was second hand then, it had been abused a bit and had pitting in the poll and across the top of the blade.

The bit had been kept immaculately by the current owner (there has been little change in it since I can recall and it's a user, very sharp), it had a slight dink which I know he had been trying to remove so the restoration started with me thinking "well I can always remove that for him".

The top of the blade and the poll as I said was heavily pitted, I used diamond stones (from lidl's) to remove the damage and then went onto wet 'n' dry. I have a polishing wheel that is attached to one of my drills and I used that to get it where it is now.

The sheath is just over 15mm thick (maybe a little more) where all three layers meet and the thread is 1.2mm having been placed through a drilled hole of 0.75mm. It left me with ground down teeth and very sore fingers as it was hand stitched (saddle stitch).

The leather for the sheath is 5mm> veg tanned, it has had 7 layers of british tan dye per side, 2 coats of resolene and 3 coats of ox blood polish, and has a norwegian leather grease on the inside. It was my first attempt at a sheath for an Estwing but the second for an axe (my first was just a little too short by about 5mm, as moduser and the guys that have seen it could tell you ).


I was going to post an article this afternoon on re-dressing a hatchet

British Red, I think that we can all do this, but I also think that an article for redressing a hatchet would be a very good idea and I for one would like to see it. It allows points of view and tips to come out that people may not get otherwise and it's good to share.

Jason I like the sheath that you did and the only reason that I posted was seeing the Estwing in your picture (I had taken the pictures before just to show what it looked like and I could justify having done it because of them to it's owner).

I know the owner pretty well so I am pretty sure that he will be happy:D. I daresay I will find out when I finish doing the rest of the bits that I said I would do for him.

I have a different tutorial to finish so this didn't pop into my mind as a possibility, sorry:o

[jason01]

I love to see the different variations, the incredibly high standards always impress me and you cant help but learn from everybody elses ideas, compared to knife sheaths I havent seen many axe sheaths and the more pictures people post the better.

Seeing the excellent work shared on here on here and BB is what inspires me to have a go and I must admit I borrow a bit from here and a bit from there to come up with a final plan, so keep up the good work and thanks for sharing it :D

[scruff]

Leon - Very nice stuff.

I think these axe threads willl certianly help people but life into old axes and perhpas make people think twice before splashing out on a GB or Roselli.

Nice work y'all!

[leon-1]

Well if people have an old axe at home in the shed, under the stairs, wherever they may as well give it a go. They could end up with a very good tool for very little cost:)

[soup_monger]

My £10 Wetterling Swedish Army axe is going through a bit of a change. :D
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d104/fergus2468/IMG_0804.jpg
I've got a Gransfors SFA handle on order for this. :)

[scruff]

Oh very goood, that is one seriously TOP job! :35:

Looks almost like a GB Hunters head now (Must say I was looking at mine last nite thinking of bringing the tow down to eye level).

You must have spent more on the SFA helve than the Axe itself?? :p

[soup_monger]

Yeah, slightly more Scruff,but, I thought it would be interesting to have a Wetterling/Gransfors hybrid. :D
The photo looks a big weird,but,the top is flat with a slight turn down at the poll.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d104/fergus2468/IMG_0807.jpg

Needs a bit more sanding to get all the file marks out.
Glad you like it mate.
Cheers :)

[leon-1]

nice one soup monger, as scruff said very like the GB Hunters apart from the profiling of the actual blade (I have a GB hunters axe), could be interesting to see what it can do with the SFA haft fitted.

[soup_monger]

Thanks Leon,
I've kept it slightly heavier than my Wetterling LHA so I'm hoping for a bit more chop.
There's no way of knowing without a field test though so I'll update this thread when I get it finished and use it outdoors. :)
Cheers

[scruff]

Ah now I'm here.

Just seen that second piccy - jolly nice!

Did you use power tools Soup? Was wondering how often if at all you needed to cool the head down as you we're working it?

ps. rep up!

[soup_monger]

Thanks for the Rep Scruff ;)
No power tools at all, whatsoever, none.
Just a file and lots of stamina.
The head barely got warm :D

[scruff]

Thats what I like to hear good old fashioned elbow grease! (see well worth the rep)

Guess all that eatting drum has paid off :D

[soup_monger]

I don't eat them mate... :lmao:


EDIT: I'll change this after you've fixed your spelling mistake Scruff
Made me laugh though. :D

[TAHAWK]

Thought I would pass this along here (and elsewhere). The smallest Norlund axe is back on the market after many, many years. I came across a listing when looking for another brand entirely. A Google search for Norlund + axe or axes located several vendors. Seems to cost $33.99.

[Noddy]

Roselli's longhandled one - easy!