The Skookum Bush Tool (mini review)

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Stuart

Full Member
Sep 12, 2003
4,141
50
**********************
I’m not someone who gets all that excited about knives, they are tools for a job and little more, but I must admit taking on a notable air of impatience when I was informed that a skookum Bushtool was on its way.

The Skookum is a dedicated Bushcraft/survival knife designed Mors Kochanski and hand made by Rod Garcia.

Few people in the world are more qualified than Mors Kochanski to define the requirements of a Bushcraft knife, and rather than try to explain his thinking on the subject, I’ll take the lazy way out and quote him from his book “Bushcraft” (with permission)

All general-use knives should have the blade tip close to the profile centerline of the handle. The back of the handle and the back of the blade should be on the same line. The back of the blade should not be thinned down or sharpened so that a baton can be used more effectively without being cut up. There is no advantage to a two-edged blade in bush living.
The blade should be of a good quality carbon steel, from two and a half to three millimeters thick and about two to two and a half centimeters wide. This size of blade is light in weight, yet difficult to break. The steel should be soft enough to be maintained at a shaving edge with common sharpening tools, without frequent sharpening. Such steel is found in Mora (Sweden), Solingen (Germany) or Sheffield (England) knives. Carbon, unlike stainless steel, can be used as the striker in the flint and steel method of fire-lighting. Inexpensive stainless steels have had a bad reputation with respect to producing a keen edge let alone holding it. The Mora stainless steels however, are every bit as good as their carbon steels.
The metal of the knife blade should extend for the full-length of the handle (a full tang) for strength.
The handle should be a durable, water-resistant material that can be shaped to the user’s hand if necessary.
The knife should have a strong pommel that will protect the handle if the knife is driven tip first deep into wood.
The curvature of the cutting edge should extend for the full-length of the blade. This cuts well and is one of the best shapes that quickly sharpens to a razor’s edge. The knife blade should have a sharp enough point to penetrate deep into wood with a minimum of effort.
The knife handle should be about as long as the width of your palm. A handle that is too thick or too thin fatigues the hand and causes blisters. The cross-section of the handle should be an oval instead of round or rectangular. An oval handle provides an adequate indication of the direction of the cutting edge and raises fewer blisters than handles with angular or rounded corners.
A guard on a bush knife is in the way and detracts from many operations. It prevents the use of a simple, secure deep sheath. Some people prefer a guard for fear of slipping forward onto the knife edge, but unless the knife is used for stabbing, the hand should never slip in this way. In all my years of instructing I do not recall an injury due to the lack of a guard.
As a test of strength, a good knife should not break when driven four centimeters into a standing tree at right-angles to the grain, and the handle bears your weight as you stand on it.


It arrived just in the nick of time for my departure to Borneo, certainly not the environment it was designed for, and a harsh environment for a carbon steel Bushcraft knife but Mors states that he intended this tool to function as a practical ‘Survival Knife’ and in my opinion to be qualified as such, it should perform in any environment it is required to.

Things got off to a bit of a bad start initially, I am in the habit of starting the splitting of light/small wood rounds by placing the edge where I want the split and striking the spine with the heel of my palm to start the split, progressing to a baton only if this fails to get things going.

Unfortunately the 90 angle on the spine of the SBT is quite a bit sharper than my past knives, and whilst it casts incredible sparks form a ferrocium rod and makes a superb scraper, three heel strikes in rapid succession to the spine cut the heel of my hand to ribbons (literally!). After I had stopped bleeding I decided that a change of technique was required for this tool!

This is nothing against the knife though, had I thought about it it’s an obvious mistake on my part, it was simply force of habit to use the knife as I have for years.


(Note. The spine isn’t so sharp that it would cut into your hand when choking up on the blade for carving etc. just don’t try smacking it with the heel you unprotected palm as the bone structure beneath the skin acts as an anvil with your skin pinched between it and a hard narrow piece of steel, something has to give. You should also be aware that compared to Mors, I have baby soft hands :rolleyes: )


With this hiccup out of the way however the knife really impressed me, and I mean really really impressed me, it’s now my favourite bushcraft knife by far.

The A2 carbon steel surpassed my expectations for corrosion resistance, naturally I took great care to avoid rust but I expected to be fighting a losing battle in the jungle, instead I found it didn’t need quite so much care as I had feared. One morning when I realised that after a river crossing the night before I had forgotten to dry and oil the blade before going to bed and it had sat at 30 centigrade in a wet sheath all night, I drew it fearing the worst, only to find to my delight only light spot rusting here and there.

It took serious abuse (hammering in 3 inch nails with the base plate and splitting logs all day to build a basecamp kitchen) and shrugged it off without harm, without raising a single blister on my part and handled the finer tasks with the same finesse as a Finnish Puukko


Firstly a close up of my hand after it had healed up, I wont be doing that again! :
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Some shots of the knife in camp, with some camp furniture it was used to make:
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In the jungle things often get quite slippery, this was no problem with the Skookum at all:
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Splitting wood was no problem either, even when the round was wider than the length of the blade, as the solid handle arrangement allowed you to hammer on the back of the handle to drive the blade though without any subsequent damage to the knife:

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In the building of the kitchen for our ‘Bushpig Basecamp’ we used nails, as this was to be a permanent structure intended to be in use for years to come. The entire structure was built using the Skookum not just for cutting but also as a hammer, for most knives this would be outrageous abuse, for the skookum however it was just another days work, it finished the day none the worse for wear.

It works very well as an emergency hammer, hammering with the skookum is however slow going!

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Removing bark slabs for construction of the kitchen:

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Our camp kitchen, Dave on the left with the skookum in hand, myself on the right, kitchen consists of a raised platform to keep the fire safe from flooding in the rain, the fire built on a sand basin (made with the bark), a rack for drying fire wood and of course a roof:

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a jungle shelter, also built with assistance from the Skookum:

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The Skookum Bush tool is as tough as nails (tougher actually) and super reliable, whilst also maintaining the finesse of a true carver, which is a very tricky balance and a testament to Rods accurate interpretation of Mors requirements. It gets a five star rating from me, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to anyone looking for a no nonsense tool for the wilderness. You certainly couldn’t get me to part with mine.

For more information see: www.skookumbushtool.com
 

Tiley

Life Member
Oct 19, 2006
2,364
374
60
Gloucestershire
Great review. It's always nice to know that I'm not the only total devotee to the Kochanski/Garcia masterpiece!

I have no connection with the maker or designer but can only endorse what Stuart has said about this remarkable piece of kit.

It looks as though your SBT was given the work out it needed! If only I could do likewise here in snowy Gloucestershire!
 

Stuart

Full Member
Sep 12, 2003
4,141
50
**********************
I should provide a little background information on how this Knife came about as it’s a pretty interesting. Its the story of the fanatical dedication of two individuals.

The first individual, Mors Kochanski needs little or no introduction, considered by many to be the father of the modern Bushcraft movement, has spent all of his 67 year life studying, practicing and developing skills and techniques for survival and Bushcraft. His work inspired at a young age the individuals who went on to popularise the Bushcraft ethos by bringing it into peoples living rooms via television programs.

Mors described in his book “Bushcraft” what the ideal Bushknife should be, but in reality he always struggled to find a knife that met the outlined requirements, whilst also being robust enough to be absolutely dependable in a scenario where life may hang in the balance, it seemed that such a ideal survival knife just did not exist.

In 2002, Rod Garcia picket up a copy of ‘Bushcraft’ at his local market, and like many before him he was inspired. He signed up for one of Mors courses and after 6 days in a snow-covered Canadian wilderness with Mors he was set on a path that he says changed his life, only one thing niggled at him though. That elusive knife, how could something so fundamental to life in the wilderness be so totally absent?

So in 2005 Rod decided he was going to make things right, the only problem, Rod had never made a knife….. But that would prove no obstacle. Finding a local knife maker he went about learning the trade.
Then when he felt confident, he sold his Toyota Land cruiser to raise the money for knife making equipment and with pages 109 to 134 of Kochanski’s “Bushcraft” as his bible he began work, producing prototype after prototype in search of his grail.

The Date of annual ‘Rat Root Rendezvous’ (Canada’s Bushmoot or rather the other way around, as BCUK’s Moot was inspired by the RRR) came around and Rod attended, taking with him some of his rough Prototypes to pass around and obtain advice form other participants. Also in attendance was one Mors Kochanski, it wasn’t long before one of Rods creations found its way into his hands and he inquired “Whose knives are these? These knives are as close as anybody has come to the perfect bush knife that I have seen!”

The two men discussed the prototypes in depth and Mors provided a great deal of encouragement and advice, which spurred Rod on to another 4 months of alterations, Tweaks and improvements until finally the Skookum Bush tool was born.

Rod sent three finished Skookums to Mors Kochanski, and held his breath……. For three weeks, until finally he got a phone call:

“You are the first person to make my concept of an Ideal bush knife since my book was published in 1987” – Mors Kochanski

It was just what Rod wanted to hear, his quest for the ultimate no compromise
Bushcraft knife which blended the finesse of a Scandinavian carver with the rugged
bombproof construction of a serious survival tool seamlessly.

It had taken 4 years, he’d sold his car and learnt a whole new vocation, but his obsession had driven him to create his hearts desire.

Other people desired it too, and Rod is happy to use his new found knowledge of knife making to oblige, Mors is delighted to endorse the man who made his definition of a bushcraft knife a reality. Rods order book is full, and he should be able to replace that land cruiser now!

When you pick up and use this knife you get a sense that these two people really put their heart and soul into getting it right. Mors in using lifetime of experience to define the essence of the bushcraft knife and Rod in obsessively working to realize it.

It looks deceptively simple, there is no flourish or fancy in this tool, no ostentatious marketing. It is the type of perfectly refined simplicity that cannot be appreciated without being experienced. The kind of ingeniously flawless thinking that receives admiring nods when a device achieves with no moving parts something that had previously required hundreds.

Such simplicity is often overlooked and underappreciated, but to achieve the simple perfectly is perhaps the greatest achievement, simplicity is elusive. The simpler something is the less there is to hide the flaws. Like a perfect circle drawn freehand.
 

Matt Weir

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jun 22, 2006
2,880
2
52
Tyldesley, Lancashire.
Stuart,

As well as being a great speaker - I was enthralled on your 'water walk' at the moot last year - you are also a talented writer who makes one want to read on until the end.

Write a book about your adventures and I'll be the first to buy it (signed of course :D)
 

Stuart

Full Member
Sep 12, 2003
4,141
50
**********************
Looks like a pretty good knife, my only qualm is with the name "Bush Tool".

"bush Tool" is an apt description of what it is, its name is "Skookum" is Canadian slang term used to describe somthing which is strong, able, solid, reliable, genuine, stout, brave; fine or splendid.

its a Skookum Bush Tool

I see you managed to get hold of that old Swedish billhook you were after too...

yes, not as versatile as a golock or parang of course but it has its own advantages and its vastly safer to use when working and travelling alone in remote jungle areas where your often tired and lack a sure footing.

it would be great if somone started making these again, would be nice if they improved the method of joining the handle to the head too
 

Mikey P

Full Member
Nov 22, 2003
2,257
12
52
Glasgow, Scotland
Good, informative article, Stuart.

I have a question for you about the handles. I have no experience of micarta so I'm interested to know how they 'feel' and work in hot and humid conditions. Was there any swelling of the handles, did water get underneath the scales?

You also mentioned some light corrosion on the blade - did this pit or was it easy to remove? I'm assuming that the blade was the O1 steel, judging by your comments on ferrocium sparking. Although you haven't experience of the other two steel types offered, do you think either may present a significant advantage over the O1?

Actually - I've just re-read the article and you have the A2 steel blade. So, I'll rephrase my question: From the weblink you mention, it seems to suggest that the A2 doesn't spark - but you managed it? Also, do you think the A2 blade will hold any significant advantages over the O1?

There. That's better now.


Thanks!
 

Stuart

Full Member
Sep 12, 2003
4,141
50
**********************
I have no experience of micarta so I'm interested to know how they 'feel' and work in hot and humid conditions.

Micarta feels almost exactly like wood, a fine micro texture like the 'grain' found in wood, makes the handle feels 'warm' and has an excellent texture for grip , just like like wood really

Was there any swelling of the handles, did water get underneath the scales?
absolutely none, on both counts

You also mentioned some light corrosion on the blade - did this pit or was it easy to remove?
no pitting, just spots, easily removed, 01 would have been a mess!

I'm assuming that the blade was the O1 steel, judging by your comments on ferrocium sparking. Although you haven't experience of the other two steel types offered, do you think either may present a significant advantage over the O1?

Actually - I've just re-read the article and you have the A2 steel blade. So, I'll rephrase my question: From the weblink you mention, it seems to suggest that the A2 doesn't spark - but you managed it?


its a common myth, but in reality the quality and quantity of sparks cast from Ferrocium rod have absolutely nothing what-so-ever to do with the metallurgy of the steel used to strike the rod. It’s only the hardness of the material and the angle of the striking edge that effect the quality of spark, glass for example produces great sparks.

the confusion arises from the miss-use of the word FLINT when referring to ferrocium rods, FLINT as in the sedimentary cryptocrystalline silicate form of the mineral quartz AKA the glassy black rock used for flint knapping, will not cast sparks from a stainless steel edge.

note that Rod says "(O1) will allow the user to strike a spark off the spine using the flint and steel method of fire lighting ( A2 has a little too much alloy to get a good spark)."

he is talking about the rock, not ferrocium rods

A2 is a carbon steel, so it will still cast some sparks from flint, though not as well as 01 steel blade would. both however are pretty lame at casing sparks when compared to a proper strike-A-Light or the back of a hacksaw blade.

With Ferrocium rods both the A2, 01, and CPM 3V versions will cast identical sparks


Also, do you think the A2 blade will hold any significant advantages over the O1?
my experience with the Skookum (my first A2 blade, all others are 01) suggests it holds its edge a little longer, and is considerably more corrosion resistant, rod says it should be harder to sharpen but i cant say i have noticed any discernable difference
 

Tiley

Life Member
Oct 19, 2006
2,364
374
60
Gloucestershire
Rod is currently making me an SBT Mk1 in S30V stainless. I'll let you know what it's like and how I get on with it when it arrives - soon, I hope! If it's anything like my 01 version, it will be utterly superb.:D
 

buckley

Nomad
Nov 8, 2006
369
4
United Kingdom
Great review Stuart,

I recieved a skookum a few months back (A2) and I am seriously impressed with it! Rod is a fantastic chap, and went out of his way to accomodate me.

In my opinion the best 'user' knife I have ever handled and a real bargain at the current exchange rate!
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
Apologies for getting a little bit steel-nurd. Just trying to de-mith views on steel


A2 is a better steel than 01 if you are looking from a purely performance perspective. It actually seems to have a little more toughness than 01 better edge holding and more corrosion resistance.

But some like the way 01 reacts to tannins in wood etc.

And dont forget on a big blade(not applicable to a skookum) 01 can have a soft back making it extremely tough

In actual fact the cpm3v would be far superior than both the A2 and 01 (from a performance perspective)

Edit: all of the above depends on proper HT
 

Burnt Ash

Nomad
Sep 24, 2003
338
1
East Sussex
Personally, I have to say that I regard hammering nails in with the pommel as 'knife abuse' and potentially dangerous. But then I wouldn't attempt to batten with the heel of my hand, either.
I pestered Tiley to show me his SBT on a couple of occasions at the Wilderness Gathering 2007, because I was so impressed when I first saw it. It's a really nice knife with an interesting (if slightly wacky) sheath. Definitely one on my wish list for the future.

Burnt Ash
 

C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
Mod
Oct 6, 2003
7,386
2,395
Bedfordshire
If I recall, the way Mors suggests using a knife as a hammer for nails is to use the flat of the blade and a baton. He does it with dinky little Moras.

In my opinion, it is only abuse if the knife isn't designed in such a way as to handle it. The Skookum has a steel butt, not for balance, or because its full tang needs it, but for a striking surface. If you can't hammer with it I don't see why it would be there. Since every other detail has been thought out very carefully, I am sure that Rod will have considered that a steel butt will tempt people to use it as a hammer and that he will have built it accordingly.
Only a supposition, but I think it is a fair one.

Excellent reveiw Stuart!!
 

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