How do I specify a zip?

[Billy-o]

I am planning on getting a jacket made up and would like to be able to specify a heavy duty brass two way zip.

It is like the YKK one I have on a Barbour jacket that I bought in the mid 1980s. It still opens and closes like it was made of buttered glass. Though the jacket itself is crumbling into desuetude, it hasn't completely died, and in any case I'd feel pretty callous harvesting it for body parts after all this time

Can anyone help with the kinds of information I'd need in order to be able to give an accurate specification to the maker? I'm open to any suggestions of different types of zip option.

Thanks ever so much

 

[Robson Valley]

If you want some color choice, the big Delrin (aka nylon) zippers are worth a look.

The only zippers here which can outlast the fabric are the big brass YKK zippers that Carhartt uses in their coats.
They just don't fail. They don't seem to clog up with wet snow that freezes.
My chore coat is perhaps 25 years old, frayed cuffs and ***** holes. The zippers are immortal.
The main is brass and the map pockets are Delrin with brass sliders.
The zipper in my newest Carhartt is also a brass YKK and is a 2-way, which is nice.

For custom work, I'd visit a upholstery shop that recovered every thing from chairs to boats to convertible auto tops.
They buy zipper stock in huge spools to make up whatever they need. Boxes of all the other parts.
If you know the length, they can make it up in no time.

 

[Nice65]

Generally teeth in metal or plastic, but also coil.

Sizes here:

http://zlideon.de/en/content/10-table-of-sizes

https://www.fixnzip.com/zipper-sizes/

Wetsuits, boat covers etc would be size 8-10. I’d guess a size 7 or 8 for your jacket.

 

[Alan De Enfield]

If you want some color choice, the big Delrin (aka nylon) zippers are worth a look.

Just a small correction :

Delrin is the Du-Pont trade name for an Acetal (polyoxmethylene - aka POM)

Nylon (polyamide aka PA) is a generic designation for polymers manufactured from aliphatic or semi-aromatic polyamides.

Nylon is hygroscopic whilst Delrin isn't
Delrin is a more rigid and stronger material than Nylon.

They are both 'plastics' but are very different.

 

[Robson Valley]

Ah. Thanks. That explains why the plastic zippers are Delrin.
They certainly perform well under our winter conditions.

 

[Alan De Enfield]

Ah. Thanks. That explains why the plastic zippers are Delrin.
They certainly perform well under our winter conditions.

We had some huge problems with our Nylon products in Scandinavia during the winter.
As you will be aware, the air is very dry in Winter, this means the moisture is 'sucked out' of the Nylon, Nylon 6 & Nylon 66 (the most common types) require approximately 2% (by weight) of water to remain flexible, no water = brittle product.
With Du-Pont we had to develop alternative additives to make sure that the products still functioned in the Winter.

 

[Janne]

We used to lubricate the brass zips in winter, with a soft pencil.
Graphite I guess.
Yes, plastic zips tend to break in winter. If you look on Scandinavian made ( or made by reputable Scandinavian companies outside Scandi) they all have metal zips.
YKK metal zippers are the Dog’s family jewels.

BillyO, I think you need to specify also the thickness/ size of the teeth and on which side the key (?) or the moving bit is.

 

[Billy-o]

Graphite I guess.

Possibly the wax holding the graphite together too, Janne. The thing about the teeth size is, I think, the thing that was getting to me. I have two Barbours, one more ancient than the other. The zip on one is a burly affair. Big teeth and tattoos. The other is more sedate, drawing-room style of thing with delicate little teeth ... doesn't work at all well now, and never really did.

Btw, Delrin makes a top knife handle and is often found on slippies. Engineering stuff. It is the kind of thing one might look into for a fixblade too. Don't think I have ever seen one though.

 

[Robson Valley]

Our winter conditions would be comparable but that varies a lot from coast to coast.
The coarse YKK brass zippers are quite durable. After-market pull tabs are another feature to add for convenience.
They are a lot easier to manipulate with winter mitts or lined gloves.
.
The worst quality zipper is a plastic one, fine teeth, in the most expensive down parka that I ever bought.
The cloth tape at the starting end is absolutely shredded. Reshaping it with carpenter's glue as a matrix wasn't a perfect fix.
I keep hoping that I can buy some patient seamster to rennovate the coat. I'll ask for YKK brass.
The company, Eddie Bauer, refused to repair the coat, even if I paid for it. I think they went bankrupt.

I have a YKK zipper raincoat.
It appears that the teeth are some plastic while the slider (2-way) parts are metal.
Of course, I won't get that out for New Year's Eve.

 

[Billy-o]

Our winter conditions would be comparable but that varies a lot from coast to coast.

Varies even more when you factor in the other (third) coast

 

[Robson Valley]

Arctic, how could I forget. Local conditions change by adding another mile or two in altitude, as well = Fourth coast?

Hindsight says I look at the zipper first. If that's not going to work then the rest of the coat does not matter.

 

[Billy-o]

So, I have the idea that what I am looking for is a #10 Heavy Duty YKK double end zip ... does that sound right?

 

[lou1661]

So, I have the idea that what I am looking for is a #10 Heavy Duty YKK double end zip ... does that sound right?

#10 (plastic) is the same as the zips on a PLCE side pouch is that as chunky as you need it?

 

[Billy-o]

Thanks for that lou1661. That looks like what I had in mind .. though in brass. Sounds like I am on the right track