Ok. Decision made! Full tang it is. No bolster or guard though, just a nice bit of wood and someliners.
Thanks to all that have helped so far especially Stew.
Thanks to all that have helped so far especially Stew.
Khukuri advice required
- Thread starter Leon
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I'd stick to the full tang. I'd have thought it was easier to do that than try and do all the grinding/cutting filling/drilling for a stick tang without damaging the blade.
This is a full tang large Nessmuck Stew did for me.
IMG_3017 by chrstphrferg, on Flickr
IMG_3018 by chrstphrferg, on Flickr
Thanks Badger, lovely looking job.....
Good stuff! I'm looking forward to seeing it done. Any thoughts on what wood you'll be using?
Also worth remembering that if you decide you don't like it as a full tang that you can always cut it down to a stick later but going the other way is not so easy!
Like the reasoning on full tang first
I haven't got anything specific in mind yet for the wood. Something dark I think but with some nice pattern to it. Maybe some kind of burl. Are their any I should avoid due to being tricky to work? Or maybe quicker to ask what you might recommend? The walnut on that H1 on your site looks nice.
I have always liked mosaic pins when it comes to fastening the scales but maybe a bit flash for this job. I am tempted to try and make a brass butt plate, though, given the attachment opportunity already exists.
Janne,
Thanks for the bolster encouragement. I think I'm going to err on the side of keeping it simple this time though��.
I haven't got anything specific in mind yet for the wood. Something dark I think but with some nice pattern to it. Maybe some kind of burl. Are their any I should avoid due to being tricky to work? Or maybe quicker to ask what you might recommend? The walnut on that H1 on your site looks nice.
I have always liked mosaic pins when it comes to fastening the scales but maybe a bit flash for this job. I am tempted to try and make a brass butt plate, though, given the attachment opportunity already exists.
Janne,
Thanks for the bolster encouragement. I think I'm going to err on the side of keeping it simple this time though��.
I'll have a search for some, cheers.
If anyone has a link for fitting scales to a tang that tapers top to bottom as well as back to front that would be extra handy too
If anyone has a link for fitting scales to a tang that tapers top to bottom as well as back to front that would be extra handy too
You are wellcome!
Just make sure the two component plastic is able to stick to the wood. And it sets hard.
Just make sure the two component plastic is able to stick to the wood. And it sets hard.
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Hi Leon,
How's it going - any progress? For wood reccomendations, there are just soooo many options so it's hard to pick. There are some tough ones that I wouldn't suggest for a first attempt but apart from that, go for it.
How's it going - any progress?
For wood reccomendations, there are just soooo many options so it's hard to pick. There are some tough ones that I wouldn't suggest for a first attempt but apart from that, go for it.Hi Stew,
I've had a quick file of the tang which has worked well and I'm pretty much sorted on the shape of everything. Watched several videos which have been a big help but seem to be a bit stuck with sourcing interesting woods in suitable sizes. The flared butt and over all length, given I am not employing bolsters, means most of the woods cut for knife scales are too small. I would like to keep a good thick palm swell in the centre too. I've calculated I need scales 150x60x15mm minimum. I saw some nice bocote ones on eBay that were close.
It seems everyone agrees burls are tricky and I think maybe a bit 'overdressed' for this particular blade tbh. Still like walnut though.
I still have some kiln dried beech bought for firewood which I had a rummage through to see if I could find any spalted bits but no such luck.
Just had a busy 10 days at work too which has held things back a bit.
Any suggestions on sourcing wood?
Thanks.
I've had a quick file of the tang which has worked well and I'm pretty much sorted on the shape of everything. Watched several videos which have been a big help but seem to be a bit stuck with sourcing interesting woods in suitable sizes. The flared butt and over all length, given I am not employing bolsters, means most of the woods cut for knife scales are too small. I would like to keep a good thick palm swell in the centre too. I've calculated I need scales 150x60x15mm minimum. I saw some nice bocote ones on eBay that were close.
It seems everyone agrees burls are tricky and I think maybe a bit 'overdressed' for this particular blade tbh. Still like walnut though.
I still have some kiln dried beech bought for firewood which I had a rummage through to see if I could find any spalted bits but no such luck.
Just had a busy 10 days at work too which has held things back a bit.
Any suggestions on sourcing wood?
Thanks.
I've come in late here.
http://www.spanglefish.com/woodcarving-scotland/
This chap does a lot of exotics for decent prices. Also he will probably cut them into scales for you if you ask.
http://www.spanglefish.com/woodcarving-scotland/
This chap does a lot of exotics for decent prices. Also he will probably cut them into scales for you if you ask.
If you're still struggling on wood I can have a look through some of my stocks and see about sorting something out.
Hi Stew, thanks for the generous offer. I'll drop you a pm if I've had no luck in the coming week.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Ok, finally managed to get a large lump of kiln dried American black walnut.
From having a read around the net, it seems loveless bolts and epoxy are the best option for attaching scales. The only issue is the existing holes in the tang are a much larger diameter than the bolts available. Wondering should I drill new holes or allow expoxy to fill the gaps?
Given the problem of the tang tapering top to bottom as well as back to front, would using liners be a huge complication that I might be best avoiding?
Thanks in advance, as ever
From having a read around the net, it seems loveless bolts and epoxy are the best option for attaching scales. The only issue is the existing holes in the tang are a much larger diameter than the bolts available. Wondering should I drill new holes or allow expoxy to fill the gaps?
Given the problem of the tang tapering top to bottom as well as back to front, would using liners be a huge complication that I might be best avoiding?
Thanks in advance, as ever
Epoxy to fill the holes would work fine I would have thought. You'd be very very lucky to find bolts that were a perfect fit for holes anyway.
