Awls

[Monikieman]

My awl doesn't have a metal collar. But then I looked at it and it does!!!

All the force is pushing so I can't see why a collar is needed unless they batter the blade in and then sharpen it.

Worth a try.

 

[Hibrion]

sorry if i'm hijacking the thread here, just sorting myself out a wee travel kit, thinking of making myself a new awl handle on the lathe. reckon it would be sturdy enough without the metal cap/collar you get on most awls?

Just use some epoxy. I made a small awl this way with a spare blade and a door knob.

 

[Dreadhead]

will give it a bash and see how it works out

 

[Mesquite]

All the force is pushing so I can't see why a collar is needed unless they batter the blade in and then sharpen it.

Don't forget that if you're using a diamond awl it's shaped like a mini wedge so every time you push it into some leather there's a similar reaction of the awl being forced into the awl handle as well hence the metal collar for reinforcement

 

[Monikieman]

Don't forget that if you're using a diamond awl it's shaped like a mini wedge so every time you push it into some leather there's a similar reaction of the awl being forced into the awl handle as well hence the metal collar for reinforcement

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Makes sense. Mini collar or thicker neck perhaps.

 

[Robbi]

not only that but any sideways movement of the pointy bit ( ie: if you're not pushing straight down ) will stretch the hole in the handle and without the constraints of a collar it may well split over time.

look at a bit of scrap copper pipe to use as a collar.

 

[Dreadhead]

some good ideas there cheers I use a round awl which is easier to fit to a handle i reckon. I will also say i have a diamond awl and a round awl already, but the round one had bent out of true in the handle from me not pushing straight with it. reckon i have ruined the handle thats why im making another. wil ltry and get coper pipe or something similar to act as a collar

 

[Wayland]

Or if you are feeling creative, use a bit of antler like I did on mine.

 

[Man of Tanith]

I use an antique diamond awl as used by my great great grandfather. I sharpen it or strop it before a project.
I also have a modern diamond awl.
And now a small one made by everything mac which is gonna be my travel awl as its dinky but so far works very well although its a round un.
I've also got a canoe awl t handle at some point which is a big old beast and will be suitable for woodwork/bark projects I suspect.

All of em need t be sharp and pointy to work effectively as wayland says

 

[Dreadhead]

Or if you are feeling creative, use a bit of antler like I did on mine.

i do really like that Wayland, did you hollow the antler out and use it as a cap/ferrule?

 

[DaveBromley]

Where is the best place to get a decent awl blade then? Don't really want to get it from Le Prevo as the shipping will be ridiculous and not ordering anything from them for a while.

Dave

 

[Dreadhead]

you can pick up awl blades cheap on ebay, usually ones sourced from the bigger companies

 

[ForgeCorvus]

Antler has a spongy middle, a knife will clear it out.

Theres always rawhide or sinew, applied wet and sealed when dry

 

[Wayland]

i do really like that Wayland, did you hollow the antler out and use it as a cap/ferrule?

Yes that was pretty much it. As FC says, the core is spongy so it is easy to remove so just bore it to fit the wooden handle.

You can use epoxy to stick it on, or pitch if you're being a purist, and it works really well.

 

[John Fenna]

I used a Blackspur awl that I reprofiled on my grinder ... or my pillar drll!

 

[ForgeCorvus]

Forgot to mention, I sometimes use an awl made from a glover's needle
Mostly when doing lighter stuff that I can't just sew with the intact glover's needles,normally for light stuff I do something like double needle stitch but I lead with the glover's and then thread the other way with a blunt.

 

[Dreadhead]

Yes that was pretty much it. As FC says, the core is spongy so it is easy to remove so just bore it to fit the wooden handle.

You can use epoxy to stick it on, or pitch if you're being a purist, and it works really well.

nice one thats what i was thinking. its going to be a fun weekend!

 

[paleotool]

Just reading this thread over lunch before getting back to some leather work so I threw my piercing tools out for a quick photo.

The little skinny awl with the knob handle in the upper right does the great majority of sewing for me. This awl is some sort of industrial needle set into a handle, made by some friends in Oregon. The fat handled one in the lower right is a book binder's awl from Turkey. They repurpose old dental tools for these. The other two on the right are a little fatter taper for thick stuff. The upper right I made myself from a dental tool and the lower was inherited from great grandpa. The big woodworking awl is good for hole-stretching and the curved cordwainer's awls are vital for lining up holes through many thick layers. The skinny punch at the top is great for clean, round corners and of coarse, the rotary punch does everything else for lacing and riveting.

Like the man said, keep them sharp. There is no limit to thickness but better and straighter runs are generally had if you can punch the layers individually.

Almost forgot: the lumps are beeswax. Vital for vegetable tanned leather. The awls actually get quite hot when you are sewing fast.